alex nicol

Hi Tom, There are a few places about that will make foam wings for you. If you haven't made a built up wing before I'd suggest you have a browse through some outerzone plans for a similar shaped wing and copy the general construction methods resized to suit your requirements. With regard to the rib set make a root and tip rib templates out of 1.5mm ply or similar and use the sandwich method to create your ribset. Hope this helps Alex

PS one with 46 and later with 34

Ive a Precedent Fun Fly ( it's about 25 years old) which I believe is the same as the SLEC version. I've had an SC46 on a 10x8 shoehorned in with no need for mod, it currently has an ST34 on a 9x6. Flies well with both engines ....... the 34 is more than enough for it, but the 46 is also a lot of fun and ever so slightly ballistic. The only point I'd make is on fus construction. the formers at the wing le & the had 2 tabs which keyed into slots in the fus which also make a very nice weak spot ....... one heavy dead stick landing and I had a 3 piece fus. If it's still same construction I'd advise a little light glassing over these points Good Luck Alex

Hi Robert, Your wing looks a lot better for a bit of elbow grease with the wet and dry. If the wing trailing edge above the flap won't straighten out, it looks as if it wouldn't take too much to cut it out and replace. Good luck and keep the pics coming

Hi Robert, Youll probably get swamped with lots of differing advice, but here goes my twopeneth worth. The quick solution might be to put some pva in a syringe and if you have one of the needles that used to be used for filling ink cartridges Inject the pva into the splits and weigh, tape or pin them down as flat as you can get them. That said I'd be inclined to consider rubbing the whole wing back to the wood, then remove some strips of sheeting from root to tip removing the splits and resheet with good balsa. then consider glassing or or dope and tissue. Alternately if the splitting damage is near the tips just cut it out and patch it. Just make sure the new wood is good fit and well glued in round the edges. good luck with whatever route you choose Following with interest, would like to see some more photos as the repair progresses. Best Regards Alex

My thinking is to keep it simple. The construction will probably change quite a bit from the plan but the basic outline will stay the same as the Spectre apart from the fuselage wing/tail moment which will be increased somewhere in the region of 150 - 175% of current then the whole lot will be scaled up to about 140%ish. the fuselage may need to widened to accommodate the engine/tank set up ( probably going to be ic 46 - 53 size) Erfolg makes a good point about the thickness of the wing section which I'll give some thought to, once I see what it looks like I've got a couple of projects I need to get finished first then here goes ............

I think you may be right. Mine ended up in a similar state (dead stick in the middle of a wing over) the useable bits were harvested and the remainder cremated and assisted with a good squirt of diesel fuel.

There's a whole load of C/L stunt classics with really nice lines ..... no pun intended, that look like they'd adapt to a nice sport RC model. Another one I was always going to build and never quite got round to it is the Comodore ( plans on outerzone) it might even lend its self to EDF power who knows. Anyways, thanks for all the excellent suggestions, looks like I've a lot of pondering to do

Thanks gents. much appreciated the inboard wing length and tip weight would certainly make for some interesting flight characteristics

there's a KK Spectre thread on here which triggered a couple of memories of my C/L days. I started to wonder if the Spectre could be scaled up to about 60" span and converted to R/C and if so is there anything I'd need to change? my initial thought is the fuselage would need to have the distance from wing to tail increased. Is there a formula for this or do I just make it look right? id be interested in any thoughts or opinions thanks

Hi Colin, if you haven't already, try a Google search for Argos discount codes, you might find a similar or better deal in there. For what it's worth, if I make any online purchases £20 and over a quick discount code search can often be successful. Good Luck

Hi Jon, I don't know if it has a bearing on things, but none of the engines are really cowled in and the cylinder heads are well exposed so no cooling issues. Just typical plan built sports models with the motors side mounted. They are a mixture of well run and one of the irvines was nib. I guess I'll just need to suck it and see if there are any adverse long term. That said, thank you for the info.

it's Prosynth 10% nitro for me. Used to run model technics Irvine sport, changed to prosynth because of price ( about 30% cheaper) I've used 4galls so far with no adverse effect. Engines were a couple of Irvine 53's, St34, ASP1.80fs all fine and no major changes to setting. 2strokes had enya no3 plugs and I cant remember what plug's in the ASP but it was as recommended by Just Engines

Our club hasn't put anything in place as yet. That said we are a small club of about 18 members and of the 18 I'd guesstimate about 7 of these are active. Mind you I don't think there's any real need to put anything in place at the minute as the weather doing a pretty good job of stopping flying all by itself.

Hi John, As with above suggestion, do the control wires touch at the crossover point and are they insulated? If they do touch I'd suggest a slight vertical offset to avoid this. Also if they have been touching is there any evidence of chaffing. If you reduce the size of the servo arm can you achieve a straight cable run? Good Luck Alex

If you want really horrible try the Leyland Maestro clubman diesel ......... that'll trump the Astra in the horrible stakes any day of the week

Major Senior moment today 1'6d is 7.5p in new money

Correction, poor memory Maricardo above on left was built 2009/10 ish. The one on the right was defo early 70's, the plan is pre decimal and cost the princely sum of 1'6d ( 15p in new money)

Maricardo on the right was built early 70's and still flying today. it's a bit 'Triggers Broom' New nose (due to fuel soak age) and a freshen up/minor refurb Fuselage recovered. The Maricado on the left was built with the RCM&E feature mods early 90's also still flying today.

Agree with above, epoxy the fin back on and make sure it is straight. If you have the other broken bits glue them back in and it'll be fine. Alternately if you don't have the broken bits make a rectangular block from some very soft 1/2inch balsa sheet, carve and sand it to fit and you'll be good to go. (speak to clubmates somebody will more than likely have a bit of scrap balsa that'll do the job and should be able to give you a steer)

To bring this back on topic. I fully appreciate there may be copious amounts of reasons why or why not any checking has occurred. The only answer I'm looking for is has anybody had a visit to check CAA compliance and if so how did it go?

Hi Don, I get what you're saying and fully appreciate our Boys in blue are underfunded and under resourced etc but that's another can of worms. My thinking is unless somebody does something remarkably stupid in the vacinity of an airport then as things stand despite all the threads on here, in general we should pretty much be left alone. In the grand scheme of things I think we'll be no more than a very tiny blip on the radar I was just curious as to see if any checks had been actually been carried out.

This is just pure idle curiosity on my part with absolutely no desire to add to the extremely long CAA threads. My question is, since the 'go live' of the CAA drone regs, has any club had a visit from the Local Constabulary to check compliance? If so how did it go

I had similar with a flair Christen Eagle, you don't need special control horns Use ordinary horns, reverse them ( holes to the t/e end) and fit them on the aileron t/e as close to the end as you can, fit the link rod to the bottom hole on both horns and trim off the excess control horn (hole nearest the horn locating screws) Cheers

Gents, Thanks for your responses. My current set up is an old Fuzzy logic charger powered from an old 12v car battery. The flight packs are 2600mah which I charge at 700ma and it takes approx 3.5hrs. The reason for my question is occasionally I may take a couple of Petrol models with me and I was looking for a reasonably quick/simple way to charge 2 ignition packs and 2 Rx packs. By quick I mean 3.5-4hrs ish