Dad_flyer

The burbling idle is very evocative.

Keeping firmly off topic. What you will keep on using or restore depends on what you understand. I have basically no useful understanding of an IC engine. I can't see what is happening and I cannot measure or calculate it, which is how my mind works. Electric I can measure and understand (at least up until the conversation from rotation to moving air to thrust). I can also continue to monitor in flight, which interests me. As a result, I have an old Cox 049 that I did manage to run once for a short time, but not again. Fun but also frustrating. Whereas my first electric motor was second hand, has been a serious lawn dart twice, has had bent and broken shafts replaced, has been cleaned and fettled. It is currently sitting neatly in a box waiting for a Peter Miller Miss Deeds to be built for it, although it might suit a bigger model better. I do agree that it will not have any second hand or collector value to anyone else, but neither is it a short-lived disposable. I do love many of the IC models I see at the club, and I am inspired by the IC restoration projects on this forum. The DH86 particularly has me hooked. It would just not make sense for me to own any of them as they then would not be likely to be flown much.

Spent a happy hour after that reaming out the wobbly wheels to put in a brass tube bushing so that they run straight again.

That prop is enormous. Really looks the part.

Well, I found them. It helped to know what they should look like. I still have no idea why I took them out ?. Even less idea why I put them in the bag with the spare prop driver that I got at the same swap meet rather than in the bag with the cowl screws from the model.

Thank you @Nigel R, those will be the ones.

Very nice indeed.

Child_flyer got a model from the club swap meet, back when those were allowed. We are only now getting it set up and I find the servo arms are not fixed to the servos. I don't think I took the screws out, I can't think why I would have done. If I did it was months ago and I don't know where I might have put them. What type/size are the screws for S3001 and S3003?

Lovely model. I do like the lines of the Bristol M1.

Laminating film should be good, I am going to try it when I get some film. It may also be effective to remove the paper and replace with the film. The paper is heavy, but gives stiffness, laminating film may adhere well enough to give the stiffness without as much weight. I plan to try doing it in the flat, possibly even before cutting out. For waterproofing foamboard I also have used rattle can acrylic lacquer - cheap stuff from Toolstation. That passed pretty severe soaking on test pieces, and did not add noticeable weight.

It is usually in the print settings. The Adobe Acrobat reader (free) has a wide range of printing options, including tiling and printing selected parts. There may be helpful replies in a similar thread to this a week or two ago. The OP there was asking about getting plans printed, but there are also posts about printing your own.

You only need to change the motor itself if it is so heavy that you need tail weight. An electric motor will perform perfectly well on a small prop delivering the lower power that you want for this model. In fact a motor capable of high power will be more efficient at converting electricity to forward power than a smaller motor (turning the same prop at the same rpm). The extra weight is extra copper wire, which gives less resistance. If you have the specs of the motor, particularly the KV then that will help to find what prop will be appropriate.

I always use just hot glue. You do need to be ready, and you need long glue sticks and a glue gun that gets enough glue hot. With that I have found it reasonably straightforward to get things in the right position before the glue is hard.

We have had a few more flights, in forecast 15mph winds on the more turbulent of our flying sites. It really does go well, enjoyable and controlled flying in that wind. Child_flyer particularly likes it, which came to be a very good thing. We had had a few flights each and the next one I had the first part. Took off and started a turn to the right. Then I completely lost coordination. Somehow I did not know which way to go to level the wings and swooped all over, nearly nose first into the ground, managed to get it pointing upwards, starting to panic. Fortunately Child_flyer was there and accepted the transmitter, levelled off and flew circuits whilst I calmed down. Handed the tx back to me, level and on the upwind leg. Again I was all over the place, again CF recovered, (and again), then it was time to land which CF did again perfectly. I am really not sure what happened, It may have just been over thinking, leading to over control. There was certainly nothing wrong with the model, it flew fine for CF. Maybe it was all just put there to give CF confidence.

There are quite a number of printshops that will do it. I never get my act together at a time when I can go in and they are open. I print on my own printer, as I have found it will do A4 wide and 500+ mm long (about 2.5 sheets long). If you have a printer it is worth checking what the biggest 'custom' page size is. Taping sheets before printing cuts down the effort a lot.

I would count that as mission accomplished. You set out to beat the lifetime of the original. Two flights, each longer than 2 seconds, does that with plenty to spare ?.

A cockpit that full of oil would turn the pilot grey pretty quickly ?.

I don't know the model, but in one of my models the 049 replacement is a 1900kv Overlander 2826 on 2s with an 8x4. Gives about 70W and a 1000 to 1300 mAh is a long flight. You want something more than that. The same motor on a 9" prop would take the motor to its limit at 100W ish.

This is the 'maker' world ?. The company the link is for is Pimoroni - PIrate RObot MOnkey NInja. In that context, Adafruit boards are the good stuff.

These are fixed 5V, they are smaller and weigh just 1g: https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/adafruit-miniboost-5v-1a-tps61023

I find that I did post some pictures, they are here: I had mis-remembered, the model is just 112g all up. I keep a stock of little boost converters (and step-down converters). The one I used is based on the MT3608 chip and is adjustable (up to 24V). Search on your favourite site and there are lots of options. There are probably lighter options at fixed 5V, these are a few grammes, but I still needed ballast in the model. I have also hacked the iA6 to report the 1s cell voltage on telemetry instead of the receiver supply voltage.

@MattyB set us the task of flying this weekend. I added another quick fix-up to my list, FT Legacy. Added the 4th channel and improved the battery cooling. Also ironed down the film where it had gone all bubbly when the garage git damp. Flew yesterday. It was pretty windy so no close passes to get good photos.

I can see why you would have a few. If yesterday was anything to go by I shall need two if I am going to be able to get my hands in one ever.

That was quite a while ago, but we have been in lockdown for a lot of the time in between. This week I have added ailerons. I set up the servo geometry for some differential as I built this with extra dihedral. The battery was getting a little warm as well, so I modified how the air goes in and around. I also opened up the 'out' hole a bit more.

I use iA6 and iA6b receivers for many models. The smallest is a glider, a bit over 250g with a little 1s battery. The iA6 and the servos are 5-6V, so I put in a little boost converter to take the 1s up to that. It all adds a few grammes so would not suit anything very light, but it keeps me in my comfort zone.