Steven Hurd

Masher Thanks I’ll have a look at that, should help me make a few decisions etc steve

Hi there. I’ve got an original webbit, that I bought when they were first out. It was my intention to build it as an electric model, but never got round to it. It looked like a straight forward conversion, but since there has been a mark 2 that looked like it was specifically designed for electric I wondered if there was any advice for the construction. Say did you have to extend the nose or reposition of the firewall to allow for c of g or battery fitment etc, do the servos need to be repositioned more rearward and the like. Possible power setups etc thanks Steve

So, 4s 2200 35c. apc 13 x 6.5 Pulled 55a, 770 watt Should work on a 5 lb sports model. so thanks for the pointer I’m quite confident that this will fly with this setup.

Don and Graham Thanks for the info and the heads up. I will spend a while reading up on the techniques and I will probably give it a go over the winter period. I enjoy trying different building techniques and this is one I can try on the dark evenings. I may well have a go at a well known model and try and adapt the build to suit. Cheers Steve

Don. Have you any further breakdowns on this type of construction. I’m really interested in using alternative materials, and would like to have a go. But I would like to see a few flying examples to give me the confidence to try it out. Like what do you use for the fuselage sides, and what is used for sheeting the wing areas, wing spars etc. Balsa is king here in my book, but I’m open to trying new ideas and suggestions. thanks for your help Steve

I have an ammeter and some other bits and pieces for measurements, but was looking for a starting point. As you say the overlander page was a bit off the mark so it was just an idea of what I could use. The figures you have given me will be a great help for the maiden flight. thanks for your help Steve

Thanks that’s a great start, I’ll buy some props next week and give them a a try

Hi there Has anybody built the max thrust ruckus pro build, and got any real world data ? I’m looking for prop sizes if there is a chance. stats 5 lb model overlander 4250 800kv either 4s 4000Mah, or if I can a 3s 3000mah, but that may be a bit short on power, 60a esc. the manual on line has everything but a prop size, so I’m wondering what everybody else is using? thanks

I think I get it, thanks, I’m getting a copy of the plan and with your explanation I’m sure it will become clear.

How are the ailerons built? I’m intrigued as I’ve never built inset ailerons. It looks like you have to manually shorten the ribs and then use a portion of the offcut for the aileron, but do you then have to cut the aileron from the spars and then try to tidy the leading edge up? I can’t believe that I’ve never done an inset aileron but I haven’t, I’ll maybe have to get this kit just to have a go at one. The wing looks good on the bench and the parts look like they fit well, is this one for cyano or good old white wood glue. Thanks

Well they sound like a great team to deal with, quick to reply and enthusiastic to put things right. first class service…

Is it worth letting sariknknow about the discrepancy on the wing ribs, at least then they might adjust the cutting profile in further batches. it won’t help you though, Great building though looks like it’s progressing very well. Good luck with the rest of it, I’ll be watching with interest.

Could the undercarriage be fitted forward rake to try to mitigate the cantilever effect, or would this stop it taking off and landing correctly? I would like one of these but not if the u/c rips off on a regular basis Thanks

Absolutely bang on….

Any chance of a build log on this model, I’m particularly interested in the electric conversion, but would be happy to see either. Thanks steve

The Bill kits touch and go looks a good alternative, I have heard they fly very well. I would like to see a build log, and electric conversion if anybody decides to get one Steve

Keith Sorry for the late reply, the 3548, and 13x 6.5 means that the model balances at approx 120mm from leading edge, I think the plan shows 95mm, so if you want it to balance at 95mm then extending the nose is an option, if you do this it opens up the chance of getting the battery hatch on the top of the model and not underneath. The model was not very good for me at 95mm, as you will read on other posts on this forum. I think the consensus is that 95mm is too far forward, and between 110 and 135 is nearer the mark. But remember this is up to the flyer and not a recommendation, you may enjoy flying it where the plan indicates. Steve

I tend to use the handle from the manufacturer of the blade. So with exacto I use their handle, and that blade is a Swann morten , so I would look to their website and find the correct size handle for the blade. Blade manufacturers appear to make their gear bespoke and therefore it is rare that blades are a good fit in any other system but their own. It’s not worth it when your digits are in the mix, and you will enjoy the correct tool more when you use it. Congrats on using just your fingers until now I’ve tried it in the past but invariably it ends up with stained balsa.

Finally settled on a 13 x 6.5 apc. Great power and good duration, and on 3s 2200 cheap power packs. Well pleased with the model, but also hope that slec have a look at the fus design to assist with lipo change, possibly from the top of the fus. Steve

That would be a great idea, but one I didn’t think of. The floor of the model has 6mm fantastic foam glued to it. The roof of the model has a square piece of foam glued to the balsa just in front of the wing dowel. The thickness of the foam provides a good friction fit for the lipo. The lipo is then just simply pushed into position till it hits the front firewall. On the underside of the wing I have another piece of fantastic foam, to prevent scuffs from inserting the battery etc The Chris foss plate carrier is however rolls Royce and one I will be employing when I build the wot4 I have in my stash.

Your right about the battery, needing to remove the wing, I have modded the plan to include a simple hatch, I also sent photos to slec and suggested they might think about including it in the future. The hatch is actually too big and I can easily fit a 4s 5000, in there so it could be made a bit smaller, by about a 1/3rd.. a top hatch would be even better but would need the design of the fus changing quite a bit. esc fits inside ok and battery connects easily through the hatch. The kit however is excellent value for money, I’m looking forward to flying mine a bit more, and trying a few different props.

I agree with Jeffrey. 3s is all that is needed setup:- 3s 2200 3548 900kv 13x4 apc 50a esc pulling 360w 38 a 120 w lb 3lb approx all up weight 5 mins mixed flight left 44% in the batts Just built one, and maidened it. I balanced it where it said on the plan which took 6 ounces of lead. It flew ok but wasn’t responsive to elevator, inverted needed buckets of down stick. Took half the lead out it improved, but vertical performance was not too brisk, took the rest of the lead out and balance moved to 120mm, next flight was responsive and virtually no down reqd on inverted flight. Vertical climb was improved without any lead. Next flights will be with a 13 x 8 and 13 x 6., with maybe a 3s 2900 to see if I can get better performance, but it compares very well to a cougar with a 40 in it, which I saw flying on the same day. I’d like to thank Jeff for posting his limbo dancer results as they really helped out in choice of gear etc. have a read of his post on the the subject its very informative.