Nick Somerville

The 36Ov engines sure are powerful! Those are all very respectable weights David and ideally matched to the engines from my limited experience. Had me searching for some scales to weigh up all the component parts of my 190 less receiver and batteries of which there will be four (ignition, on board engine starter and two x receiver). I am up to 29-30lbs and no paint yet or balancing additions. If my bathroom scales are half accurate I am going to be very touch and go to achieve a sub 15kg model. My hope however, is that it is still possible as with engine and cowl in place and all tail surfaces attached the model is less very close to the c of g (wings not attached). Despite the short nose the heavy engine, cowl and spinner and fairly lightly built rear seem to be in my favour, plus all of those batteries when fitted will be well up front.

A real bonanza of photos Dave! Lots of terrific work to admire and certainly a very interesting build and subject. It really is quite a wingspan and high aspect ratio for a warbird, so I can understand there has been a few issues keeping it all straight. Interested to know where the issue was and how you got around it. Many years ago I scratch built a 1/4 scale Bergfalke mk4 (4.3m span). Using blue foam blocks I hot wire cut the negative forms of the wings top and bottom, incorporating the required washout and blended airfoil sections. The wing was then built over the forms. Some extra work but very accurate and a much more solid base to work on compared to packing strips and rib t/e tabs. Chris Williams did a feature in Silentflight magazine on the model.

The canopy is quite a sturdy polycarbonate moulding, but just spraying the covered parts would not be particularly durable nor have a realistic appearance at the frame edges. So a paper template was taken for the metal part and the shape transferred to Lithoplate. Flush rivets punched with a sized piece of brass tube whilst flat and then formed to shape. I didn’t want to anneal the part as although it would be easier to work the tighter curves, I would be far more likely to introduce a crease and it would also be less ding proof when complete. I started using a small kitchen roller on the main spine and followed this by some scraping/burnishing with some smooth old cutlery knives. Finally the trickier tail end was burnished with a teaspoon whilst gently pulling the compound curves. I have done a glue test with some offcuts of roughened polycarbonate and litho using Evostick and am almost convinced this will work well….. so long as I can line it up first time.

A little litho work over the weekend. The stab to fin fairing needed a but of heat to soften the litho enough to work the shape. The exhaust area was going to be just the G10 beneath but as I have settled in the exhaust exiting here it made sense to provide a little more protection.

As mentioned there isn’t room for the one I have and as I don’t have the skills to make a pair of custom ones I am going to try without. Have a listen to this: certainly doesn’t sound as bad as a two stroke petrol.

Finally making some decisions and sense I hope of the exhaust. I gave up on finding a way off adding the muffler I had and have settled on this. Note that the fuselage is inverted. The Three stubs on each side are 15mm copper pipe with olives to give a thicker appearance. A brass rod soldered at the rear allows them to be glued in place once painted.

Crunch time for the cowl fixings. After repeated checks, De Luxe Materials constructional epoxy was applied to the two upper magnetic plates and the two lower bolt blocks and they were set in place. I really like this adhesive as it doesn’t move from where it is placed and so hopefully no creep to the adjacent front former (which I had smeared with soft wax just in case). Once the glue cures I can drill through the two blocks from the wing dowel holes and then add captive nuts. One more fixing point still to be added at the top. The cowl is very rigid and will be even more so once a baffle plate has been added, so three bolts plus the magnets should be man enough. The new fan and matching backplate from Fighteraces lines up nicely. The fan I acquired with my plan pack was rather flimsy and Phil at Fighteraces assessment was, “I wouldn’t bolt that to an engine if you paid me”! The fan he had made for me is not only far superior but also is the correct size and the new backplate is both recessed to match and drilled to match the multi prop fixings. Thanks, Phil.

This photo didn’t show on my post.

Been working on the front wind shield/canopy parts. Thick acrylic sheet for the bulletproof front windshield and cd case perspex for the quarter lights. A single piece of Lithoplate for the frame which fitted perfectly to my amazement. The pipes are the de-icing system. I still need to simulate/disguise the Robart pin hinges on the gun hood but otherwise it's starting to look the part in that area.

After an enforced break from the workshop for some weeks I have been able to get back in to almost complete the cockpit interior and pilots seat. One thing I have learnt is that it’s worth ensuring that your pilot has firm fixings and so I spent a few hours ensuing I this fella won’t budge, unless I want him to. Fortunately for this model the canopy slides and is removable, so at least access is there if needed. He just needs a control stick to play with now.

It’s a tough time Jon, I know as my mother was buried yesterday. Take care and celebrate all the positives of her life.

Switches for me with assigned voice acknowledgment. Three way for flaps (up, half and fully down with servo slow. I tried flaps on a slider but didn’t get on as well.

Personally I would find the task of reworking a ‘duff’ model disheartening. Building from plans gives you complete ownership of the build with the ability to add as much or little scale detail as you wish. That said, the cost of putting together a 50cc ish sized warbird from scratch is eye watering and far greater than going down the artf route. If you rate the DB Hurricane so much then why not crack on with the DB Spitfire? Sorry to hear about your Mum, Jon.

Thanks Denis, that’l be next spring then 😖

I am at a point with my latest build when I shall shortly need to spray the first undercoat, cut back and then build some further undercoat layers as I detail the panel lines, hatches and rivets etc. But here we are at a properly cold time of year and my spray space is an unheated small stone stable with a tin roof. I have power for my compressor and can get some short term heat using a greenhouse heater/blower but am wondering what temperature is considered the minimum for spraying cellulose primer with a small panel spraygun.

My Best Pilot’s unpainted Gunther Rall (Luftwaffe ace) arrived a few days ago from across the pond. A beautifully modelled and moulded pilot that I enjoyed painting, mixing a few basic colours I had in acrylic pots. He is 1/5th scale so strictly speaking a tiny bit undersized. I have made up his seat from the scrap drawer )just needs a leather cushion) and with these completed I can get on and complete the cockpit area.

A little progress on the canopy and cockpit. The sliding canopy fits a treat to my amazement and the articulated mounting of the armoured headrest functions as it should. The forward part of the canopy is now all fixed along with the cockpit coming that has handhold cut outs and the aperture for the gunsights. Just a seat to make up and a few other embellishments.

Basil, I have made my own nav lights and covers following someone else’s technique. It’s very easy, just by enough plastic sheet for a few goes to perfect your technique. page 8 of my Sea Fury build I think

Great stuff Jon. I shall endeavour to get there with these three Laser powered models. Now, how to fit them all in my little camper?

Absolutely! 90cc 🙏

Some progress today on the sliding canopy. I glued up the front and rear frames yesterday and let them set thoroughly overnight. First up I found a flat surface hinge in the odds n ends box and attached it to the top of the front frame with panel pins and cyano. Next a razor saw cut through the top of the frame from the inside up to the hinge with a slight V to allow for the pivot as the canopy slides back. Next up a track was fabricated to hold the rear of the canopy frame in place and this has a release hole at the rear (side tails have release holes at the front of their tracks). The idea is that the canopy can be removed if required but front and back won’t release at the same time. The top deck behind the pilot has a .5mm plasticard top layer sprayed silver and a luggage hatch with fake hinge and clasps added along with a few rivets. The plasticard can be embossed with simple details on the reverse before gluing in place. The final colour will be RLM Luftwaffe grey but the silver gives something to weather back to.

Finally satisfied that there was no more to add or do to the fuselage prior to glassing and so got on with what I always find a bit tricky, compared to the ease of glassing wings. While the resin fully cures I have made a start on the canopy frame that incorporates the headrest. The headrest is connected to the side frame with articulated parts to allow for the change in width as it slides back. 3mm G10 for the rear former and connector. Carbon sq with balsa for the side and light ply with a plastic sheet front for the armoured headrest. The forward canopy frames have also been fretted out from G10, but its very much a work in progress.

Hi Garry, re the fillets: For my Fw 190 and P47 ,that both have a central dihedral I sand back the fuselage outer skin a little more than shown on the plan. I then glue the wing saddle ply plate to the inside (fus box) only and then mount the wing to the fuselage. With everything measured and checked twice I then pack the small gap with thin strips of scrap balsa and add several triangular 1/4” soft balsa supports to hold the saddle tight to the wing. After sanding the triangles with coarse sandpaper wrapped around an appropriate round object its infill/sheeting time. You do need to have finalised the wing fixings first.

After a little head scratching I have made and fitted a pair of canopy rails. Brass tube slotted with an angle grinder (eek) and sandwiched between a split square section carbon tube. There is a round opening in each at the forward end into which a ball link fits in. This should mean I can remove the whole canopy if needed. I have offset the rails a little to minimise the taper but the top forward part of the canopy will still require splitting and a hinge fitting, as per the full size to allow for the rest of the taper as it is slid back. I do like shaping wing fairings and although a little fiddly on this model, due to the pair of panel hinges and various steps in the shape, it has worked out ok. As per the cowl the hinges are simulated. The rear portion is thin steamed balsa sheet and the front balsa infill with a final top coat of Fat Boy lightweight car body filler (lovely stuff to shape). The red blotches are 3m cellulose putty. Good stuff but messy as. A thin litho panel has been formed for the upper area above the vents but won’t be adhered until after glassing the fuselage. Here with the cowl in place. Not easy to see from this angle but that a a fair sized gap where the 4 simulated exhausts will go. Along with the other exhaust exit at the lower back of the cowl and the venting through the cooling flaps I have no concerns of an overheating engine.

Great to see you back on the BT building, Garry. I echo Ace’s comment.