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Graham Davies 3

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Everything posted by Graham Davies 3

  1. Good enough is good enough Steve! It looks great; your covering skills put mine to shame
  2. Ron, ED, In the process of finishing a Cambrian Spitfire as a tester for laminating film. Looks like this is good timing for us all! I used 43 micron matte film (bought from a lovely chap from ebay for £5 posted for 10m. Allows me to dip my toes without ending up having to laminate my entire house to get rid of the stuff!). I gave it a very light sanding with 400grit, but I'm not sure it really needed it. I used a light coat of white emulsion before using emulsion match pots. The colours aren't that close, but it gives a reasonable impression. I just can't believe anyone would willingly paint their house these colours! The paint sticks well, and emulsion is notoriously easy to dislodge. My masking tape is quite aggressive and took a bit of the duck egg off on the band at the rear, but otherwise it's not coming off. I'm really pleased with the film and will be buying a reel of the wide (650mm, I think) matte film. Graham
  3. Hi Steve, Great job! A note on ball joints; they do mask a problem a little. If you look at your rudder snake, it is not perpendicular to the hinge line. This means it will tighten up as it moves away from the centre point. This is because as the rudder moves through it's arc, the horn height remains constant relative to the ground. However, your snake will get closer to the ground as it pulls and further as it pushes. With a clevis, this would have been very noticeable as it will jam quickly. This is definitely lessened with a ball joint, but the problem is geometric, so still exists! Listen for your servo stalling at each end of the movement. If it is, it is an indication that it is tightening up and this may cause the ball joint to pop out. In an ideal world, if the snake or pushrod is perpendicular to the hinge line, the control run will be smooth throughout it's arc, and you can use whatever termination you like! Graham
  4. Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 03/02/2021 08:10:49: As for your choice of saw, i like. I bought a 2nd hand galaxy mustang once and the dihedral was wrong. About 20 seconds with 24'' stanley wood saw soon had it in half and ready to be reset. Without wishing to derail the thread... Not enough is made of the use of 'serious' tools! My introduction to Warbirds came with Richard Wills' instruction for creating the polyhedral on my Tempest; "be brave, get the saw out and chop each wing in half'! Yep, wood saw, deep breath and the job's a good'un!
  5. Keith, that is nothing short of brilliant! Can't wait to hear the flying reports. Graham
  6. Posted by Peter Smith on 01/02/2021 12:00:15: I built two Flite Test Simple Cubs. Very easy to build, and easily replaced if crashed. I would post a photo but every time I try the photo appears upside down. If someone can tell me how to sort the problem that would be good. Annoying, isn't it? I believe this is caused by the camera not correctly defining the orientation. There's a fix of the symptom; but it's still a bit irritating: Before you upload to this site; find the picture in your gallery, select edit, and then use the rotate tool to go a complete 360 degrees. Then save and close the image. This action adds orientation info to the file and this site can then understand what is obvious to us! I hope that helps Graham
  7. Thanks for sharing Paul. I have a Yak kit that is next on the boards. I also have Richard's Yak in my garage as a 'motivational tool' (The Yak, not Richard...). I have to say, both his and your models look fantastic and these apparently simple ideas transform the whole model. I am currently building a Cambrian Spitfire to practice these techniques on. I will share (in a separate thread) so we can all learn these skills together. Graham
  8. Tried laminating film for the first time this evening on a Cambrian Spitfire. I rather like it. You do need to plan carefully where there are curves to avoid wrinkling, and as Richard said to me, keep the iron cool to avoid blistering. I found it went on very well. Any better than brown paper? Hmm. Not sure. It's going to be quicker, and i suspect it will be a bit lighter. It's certainly a worthy option though. Graham
  9. Posted by kevin b on 26/01/2021 15:31:24: Hi Peter and welcome to the forum. Please excuse the confusion. I think the I.T. people are playing with the website at the moment, so anything could happen ! David did warn us. Is that why when I just reached for my wine glass it was empty? Can I blame IT? thought not... Welcome Peter!
  10. Hi JD, I have some professional knowledge of plastics, and I'm afraid there isn't an easy answer. All plastics tend to be degraded by UV; some worse than others. ABS tends to degrade quickly, Polycarbonate less quickly. HOWEVER, there are grades, brands etc that have anti-aging additives that greatly slow this process. The problem is, how do you know? Well, you don't! To further muddy the water, in processing the scrap material from moulding is often ground down and added to the mould material (called regrind). This is normal, and has minimal effect if kept below around 20% by weight. Low cost economies have been known to use a great deal more than this, sometimes 100%, as it saves a lot of money. This leads to embrittlement, and a very short UV lifespan. Again, the problem is you will not know! Painting plastics CAN extend the life, but we then have to worry about chemical activity potentially making things worse... Not all UV-aging is structural though. Sometimes the failure mode is colour degradation. However, embrittlement tends to occur sooner or later. My advice; keep plastic out of UV light where possible, and regularly test plastic parts. Particularly 'mission critical' parts... Graham
  11. Interesting article here... **LINK**
  12. Posted by Peter Miller on 13/01/2021 13:51:24: The Bede 8 would adapt to the concept. Wouldn't it just Peter? Great profile too, so decent knife edge performance. Graham
  13. Posted by kc on 13/01/2021 12:31:31: Peter, yes you should do another fun fly design - maybe a bit bigger (50 inch?) and a fun fly that looked a bit like a real plane with some sort of cockpit woud be unusual. . Agree KC. Fortunately, so did Nigel R and produced this piece of brilliance: Once he's got a plan, I may well be tempted! Graham https://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=168732
  14. Nice work Linds. That really is a 'proper' fix up! This is a great thread idea. I am sure it has saved some models like your Spit from permanent retirement. Graham
  15. Happy new year fellow Wombles... OK, one done! Pitts-e. 36" from around 1994. Flew it quite a bit back in the day, but it was never great. Now converted to electric, a bit of weight trimmed, and a nice new cover job. Just got the servos and esc to fit and maybe some slightly larger wheels to better suit our strip. Weight so far is 2lb 9Oz, so should be below 3lb. A bit heavy by today's standards, but will have a loading of 16 Oz/ sq ft so should be fine. Just got to avoid breaking it before 1st April! Graham
  16. I've finally started work on my Pitts-e, seen here in the company of my Alley Cat. Both were on my list of three 'fixer-upperers', although I'm still undecided if I want to do anything with the 'Cat. It is possibly my favourite all time model and has racked up many hundreds of flights. I'm feeling it may be honourable to retire it gracefully. Anyway, the rather psychedelic colour scheme has been stripped from the Pitts, and it's been converted from 25-glow to electric. It was never much of a performer, largely due to the ASP32 at the time being a friday special and having just enough power to get out of its own way... Awaiting servos and ESC, but should be ready for a photo tomorrow. Graham
  17. Last go, if I don't win I shan't bother entering tomorrow! Merry Christmas one and all
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