EarlyBird

SLEC are another good supplier that's where I bought Peggy Sue 2, Destiny and Basic 3D. With the cut parts they will include the plan all the additional wood and hardware if you so wish. I believe Peter arranged the Destiny cut parts. They are selling off stock from the days when they (Balsacraft) did the RCM&E free plan service. I am not sure what's left as this was a year ago and I know that others on here have also bought cut parts from them. Steve

Excellent.

That's your choice but for me without kits I would not be building at all. Money, I have been told I can't take it with me. I made changes to learn, with Peter's encouragement. Nothing wrong with the overall performance which is why I am treating it as a prototype and going to build a second one, having learned a few things from the first. I have always been a bit of a rebel in that I refuse to follow what others do. Makes life more interesting.

I have them all waiting patiently to find out who will be the next victim. The delivery from Sarik is normally about two weeks but with Christmas and you being in the Netherlands obviously it could be longer. Sorry. Steve

I wish I was as good as you but as I am not I have to cheat a little bit. Steve

I have one waiting in the queue along with Peggy Sue 2, Destiny, T31M and Basic 3D (not Peter's 😲). Building the Ohmen at the same time would add interest for me so it could be next, Rhapsody and xRES to finish though. Taking advice on here I added right trim to the rudder which in effect is the same as right thrust. For me this solved an issue of the left wing dropping as I increased the throttle to enter a loop. Similarly with a stall turn it enable vertical flight without a spin. So yes all the time. I was surprised at how big the effect was without side thrust so the next will have the standard 2 degrees side thrust. Zero vertical thrust is fine so for once I will leave that as designed by Peter. Steve

Your IC looks ideal and it's interesting that balance is a common issue. Mine flies on a 3535 ~1000kv 4S 10x5 prop with both servos in the tail. Shortening the nose by 15mm was my big mistake as I needed 60 grams of lead in the nose for balance. I should have added say 2 degrees of side thrust as I fly straight and level for most of my flight. Not to worry as my next Ohmen will rectify these short comings. Steve

You are welcome, What I sent would not be used, including the stamp. Fiddling with connectors was the part of my job I enjoyed most so for me this was easy and fun. Also I just like helping people. Steve

My build, spot the mistakes.

Yes in the digital archive Oct 2018 page 60 to 65.

Leaving us 😭

IC Ohmen here

Something like this? PPOM-2321-2050 4-Max Micro Brushless Motor Steve

LE trimmed. The top join is surprisingly good all the way along. The very minor gaps on the bottom will be filled with glue and covered with the capping. Steve

I must give that a go. Pins and holes. Full size this time just to save clicking on a reduced image. Steve

Thanks for the support guys. 👍 PVA wood glue is what I use most of the time. I have been experimenting, gradually adapting my method and minimising the pins used with each build. On the spar edge I use Peter's no pins method but due to a lack of bulldog clips I use clothes pegs with a ruler to protect the balsa sheet. On the LE I do use pins to form the shape. This time I wet the outside of the sheet except for along the spar edge where the ruler and pegs will be. While the sheet is naturally bending I spread glue along the spar position the sheet and lightly press along the length of the spar to spread the glue and transfer some glue onto the sheet contact area. Lift it off placing it to one side while the glue soaks in and at the same time spread glue on the ribs and LE. Taking my time the damp bent sheet is positioned and pressed down so that some glue gets onto the sheet in the contact areas. The spar edge is pegged down and the LE pinned. Pinning the LE can make the sheet lift between the LE and spar so weights are added to keep it in contact. Leaving it for a while so that the glue partially dries and the sheet dries a bit. Time for the iron now starting with the spar edge then the LE, obviously the pegs and pins have to be removed to do this. Ironing dries the sheet which makes it lose it's shape so pins are used and can be seen in the photo, left click on the photo to expand it, maybe. I will give more details, with photos, on my next build. Steve

That's good news. If you have any questions just ask and please post your progress as I am beginning to feel lonely in here. Steve

LE sheeted and waiting to dry overnight then it will be trimmed. Steve

The SAE has it the mat 👍 Putting my coat on to go to the PO As it's Christmas there's more than two leads BTW. Steve

and

What makes you think he is a novice? IMO an expert's gives better advice.

He looks like a novice to me. The wire on the wing tips is to stop damage when landing on hard surfaces, on grass they are not needed. Steve

All the wood needed is included, no hardware or covering. Steve

I wondered why the battery went flat, thanks Ron. Steve

I have noticed a lot of newly registered members with no posts and no views. What caught my eye was the name, an example mandytuner1380, all lower case no spaces starting with a female name and often ending in a number. Good advice as there looks to be many 'people' trying. Steve