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Ultymate

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  1. Ultymate
    Posted by Adrian Smith 1 on 29/09/2017 20:04:50: Cracking Rich! Looking really great. I must admit I take my props off after every session if only to protect from the humidity in the work shop and to make sure the bolts are correctly tightened when putting the props back on for a new session. You'll end up with worn out threads on your prop driver, or worse !! unless of course you don't fly very often Edited By Ultymate on 29/09/2017 20:43:13
  2. Ultymate
    Keep an eye on your prop tightness there have been reports of prop bolts shearing due to the carbon backplate of the spinner softening with engine heat allowing the bolts to loosen slightly. In fairness most of the reports I've seen have been on engines of 120+cc. Don't shoot the messenger
  3. Ultymate
    I've had three of their models over the last several years all 50 cc airframes and all been great no complaints still got one in the trailer now an Sbach 300  Edited By Ultymate on 29/09/2017 06:23:28
  4. Ultymate
    Looking at your throttle setup have you never thought of using a cable to pull the throttle open and leaving the return spring to close the throttle, this way you get virtually no vibration fed back into your servo gears
  5. Ultymate
    Posted by Tom Sharp 2 on 22/09/2017 12:35:52: This is beginning to sound like a another, certain radio brand v the rest thread. It was always going to be as Zenoah are about the only manufacturer to have stuck with magneto ignitions although they briefly flirted with the dark side. I personally started petrol flying with a Zenoah back in the day when Adam's dog was a pup but have long since switched to the lighter and more powerful and dare I say it cheaper electronic ignition engines. The Zenoahs are beloved of the scale flyers who praise their apparent reliability .
  6. Ultymate
    Most of the late stuff is either ARTF or composite
  7. Ultymate
    If the engines new and not been run it's far more likely to be a stuck needle than a diaphragm fault. Before doing anything else I'd prime the carb by shooting some fuel down the venturi of the carb, assuming you have ignition this should usually cause the engine to fire which as a rule will shock the needle loose without the need to strip the carb down
  8. Ultymate
    Which ever works best geometrically for the model is the way I go, they will not bind when crossed if you use plastic coated trace wire from your local fishing tackle shop
  9. Ultymate
    Three bladers can be very expensive particularly if you don't get the right one first time, here's a photo of the "stllts" I made for my H9 Sukhoi I used some scrap carbon I had kicking around they lifted the model around 1.5" The look I bit tatty now but been flying since 2009   Edited By Ultymate on 20/08/2017 15:59:00 Edited By Ultymate on 20/08/2017 16:01:08
  10. Ultymate

    Ultymate posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  11. Ultymate
    Flying with the cowl off is a waste of time if you have cowl pressurisation issues  If you're having prop clearance issues either go to a three blade prop or extend your undercarriage legs to suit your two blade. This was a common issue on the H9 Sukhoi 100cc size  Edited By Ultymate on 20/08/2017 15:24:38
  12. Ultymate
    Haven't read the full thread, but no one seems to have mentioned "failsafe switches" ie switches that should they fail do so in the "on" manner
  13. Ultymate
    Try Weston UK **LINK**
  14. Ultymate
    Adrian I have the Edge 540 2.6 Metre on a DLE 120. I bought it Christmas previous to last as they had this colour scheme on a good offer price and for immediate delivery. Initially I put it together with a 3W140 which eventually gave me trouble hence I re-engined it with the DLE I had to shuffle the gear around as the 3W was heavier than the DLE. It gives sparkling performance on the 120 and I'm sure you'd not lose much on the 111. I haven't used a full on Powerbox just used a Powerbox Gemini which is working fine.
  15. Ultymate
    In my experience it's never been the Canisters that move as usually they have a barbed or etched marking on the mating surface, however if you want to go the belt and braces route you could always do both ends   Edited By Ultymate on 07/04/2017 20:45:02
  16. Ultymate
    The movement of the PTFE joiners is a common issue and I think your cable and silicone tube is not the best solution, for years now I've drilled through the joiner and manifold through the gap in the spring clip and inserted a short self tapping screw with a suitable washer, and never had a problem since. Red X marks the spot where I would drill
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  20. Ultymate
    A couple of shots from yesterday, first spring like day
  21. Ultymate
    This came to me via a mate who's a member of the LMA, the source of this link, you can participate in the consultation online or via email **LINK**
  22. Ultymate
    Having a gap makes it easier to use a puller should it become necessary possibly
  23. Ultymate
    Those "silencers" will make your ears bleed !!!
  24. Ultymate
    Posted by Adrian Smith 1 on 27/01/2017 09:46:37: Why would DA grind the carb number off I ask my self? Bit of a naive question I suppose. I know OS leave it on there. Because DA do significant internal modifications to the standard Walbros
  25. Ultymate
    Posted by Jon Harper - Laser Engines on 17/01/2017 19:23:43: No that's pretty good, and for my own information its handy as I know how it performs vs our 360v (58cc v twin). Just knowing where we sit in performance vs other engines is always helpful as I am often asked for comparisons as models usually quote the petrol cc size at this end of the market. I'm also just really nosey Are you running petrol or methanol in your V twin ?
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