Frank Skilbeck

Chris I'm doing something similar on my Twin Star using a Dx6i and AR 500 Rx, but I'm using an external V tail mixer with one input from throttle and the 2nd input from Gear, I've then mixed rudder to gear and ths works. I can vary the amount of rudder mix to the gear channel so I can vary the amount of differential throttle I get. Also the V tail mixer doesn't like it if one of the feeds is off a Y lead so i couldn't just Y lead the rudder.  The Twin Star is set up as a tail dragger and this allows me to steer plane on take off and taxying..

Sparks I've run a Twin Star and Twin Jet on a Lipo/brushed motor combination with no problems at all with some old (Jeti) ESC's, the power increase was pretty good but the motors on the Twin Star didn't last too long and one fell out on the Twin Jet and and proceeded to chop the wing up in flight .   

Is it this one http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_product.php?range=RACING&productId=0000004464 You could contact CML to see if they can send you some instructions.   Also check that you have the polarity correct and that you 12v power source is 12v.

Herri You are OK to use and charge 2 x 3s packs in series, also the way you have measured through the balance lead is 1 cell, 2 cells and then 3 cells, so this is about 4v per cell which is fine, a 100% battery would be 4.2v per cell. You can measure each cell by moving along the balancer connector in pairs. Its a bit puzzling why you other battery reads 0v on all cells, its not usual for all cells to fail at the same time, and I can't understand how your charger set to a 6s could correctly charge half the cells while the other half are at 0v.  

BTW Garry if you are ever looking for a new radio, check out the Cockpit Sx, its configurable for modes 1,2,3 and 4 out of the box and then same again (5 to 8) but with throttle on a slider rather than on a stick

Have you checked the connection on the dud pack, if it charged up OK in series with theother pack and the other one is fully charged I can't see how your charger would have detected a fully charge. Even if you only had the voltage of a single 3s the servos should work, which is why i think you might have broken connection somewhere rather than a dud lipo. Have you meaured the voltage of each cell through the balancer connection?

Tony you don't need a new ESC with Lipos, you existing one will work but it won't have the correct low voltage protection, so you'd have to make sure you don't fly until the battery is run down to below 3v per cell. Having said that I've converted a couple of electric gliders from brushed/Nimh to brushless/Lipo for some club members and the step up in performance is pretty impressive.

Ernie, I haven't got a 64 bit machine at home, but you can get radio 4 via windows media player and that doesn't need Adobe flash which is only required with BBC/I Player, so you could listen to Radio 4 that way rather than through the BBC site.

I have the TR 42-50A 700 Kv and run it with a 13 x 6 or 12 x 6 on a 4s (3200 mah) in a 63" E Flite DH Beaver, 38 amps and 600w, pretty much on par with a 52 4 stroke. With a 500 Kv motor ona 4s you'd need more pitch to keep speed up, I just ran Drivecalc (www.drivecalc.de) and on a 4s battery needed a big prop (14 x 12) to get over 500w. So you'd need either more volts (i.e. 5s battery) or a higher Kv motor to run on a 4s battery. Download drive calc and put in some motor/prop/battery combinations to give you an idea, but I think you'd need to keep the diameter down to below 13" for ground clearence.

Ernie, if you have wifi at home you could always look at getting Wifi radio which will pick up internet radio via your wifi

Maybe you could go up a size and rig it up as an 8s using two 4s batteries in series.

I would think 80" is a bit much for a 4s, but this one at 57" might fit the bill

Matt, check your cables as well it maybe that you have a faulty connection in the BEC lead or from battery to the ESC and this caused the "brown out". Plug everything in, check its working and try wiggling the cables if the Rx starts blinking you've maybe got a faulty connection somewhere. I've been flying my Spekky Dx6i with AR6200s, 6100s adn AR500 for a couple of years with no sign of any lost signal. The last time I had a "brown out" was on 35 mhz, but I suppose the Rx battery departing the plane in a bunt might have had something to do with that

Not sure how you could program it, if the Tx desn't allow you to change modes, but could you not just swap the pots over inside the Tx then all the programming features would work as normal in your mode.

Try 243,000 rpm see here Maybe you could but the compressor and turbine wheels here.

Posted by buster prop on 04/08/2010 19:35:23:  Would a servo reverser in the steering servo do the trick? Yes, or if your radio has a spare channel then plug the nose wheel servo into another channel and mix it to the rudder if your Tx allows, would be easy to do with either my Spektrum Dx6i or MPX Cockpit Sx.

Glen's Maule would be a good all rounder

The other advice would be to get a competent pilot to test fly the plane for you, the Pulse series are good planes, but like all low wing planes they are neutrally stable so stay where you put them, unlike you Cub which tends to be self righting. If it's out of trim on your first flight with it, then your experience may mean that it meets Terra Firma before you've got it sorted out.   Other than that it should be a good second model, but it will be much more responsive than your Cub, but thats the whole point.

I'd check with your local club and see what radios they are using then you'll be able to buddy with them for training, this is the best way to learn. But basically all the mainstream radios are fine, but the low end sets ( 6 and 7 channel) are somewhat restricted in the mixing department (Multiplex Cockpit Sx excepted) so an 8 channel or above would be best if you are keen on flying large scale models. But you might be better starting on a less expensive set as you'll need at least 3 planes (trainer, low wing aerobatic and some other smaller low wing scale) under your belt before you attempt anything like an 85" P47 and a entry level 6 channel set would easily take you through these and let you decide what features you'd really like.

Free magic smoke with every ESC

Chris I did a twin and because I was using cheap ESC's I disabled the BEC on both of them and used a separate UBEC to make sure I had enough power for all the servo's.  I then tried running the ESC's through a V tail mixer which mixed throttle with rudder using a Y lead on the rudder servo and I had all sorts of problems, which I finally tracked down to fact that the V tail mixer wasn't happy with a Y lead on one the feeds and so I ended up using a mix on my Tx to feed rudder to the V tail mixer from a spare channel on the Rx. Whooo that was a bit long winded, but what I'm trying to say is that you might find that the 3 ESC's don't work too well if fed from one Rx output as the "signal" might be too weak when divided by 3. Give it a try but if it doesn't work then you might want to try using separate Rx outputs. 

I've flown the Radian and its a very nice plane and flies very well, the Tx is a simple 5 channel unit but fine for planes like the Radian. I have an Easy Glider Pro which I fly as a glider and it too is excellent, the big difference is that the Easy Glider doesn't come complete with the motor etc but does have ailerons. Radian is complete with everything including the battery charger.   If you don't mind doing a bit of building then the Flyingwings V trainer can be bought as a package with the electronics but you'll then need to buy the radio gear as well.  If you've not flown before though it would be strongly recommended that you find a flyer to check and trim the model and give you some stick time 2 mistakes high. Also you should look at joining the BMFA if only for the insurance.

I'm using one of these off a 4s lipo with a MPX 35 MHz IPD Rx driving 6 servos and an opto ESC from a Cockpit Sx Tx, been flying this combo for over 12 months with not so much as a twitch. UBEC is approx 2" away from the RX but the aeriel runs down the fuselage away from the UBEC. But as above the other alternative if you want low discharge batteries would be a 2s LiFe battery which has the same voltage as a 5 cell NimH pack.

Years ago friend of mine had a Yamaha RD400 and it was making a horrible noise which stopped when the plug finally blew out, tighten the plug up properly and the noise went away. He hadn't noticed any drop off in perfromance.

I'd keep away from Fleabay for power and servos much the likes of Giantcod, BRC, Robotbirds etc can offer alternative power set at competitive pricing. Just look for a motor with a similar Kv and Amp rating to the Multiplex offering.