Mike T

Closed loop. The steering wires go taut when the leg is fully down. As pictured, the wires go to the left, to the servo. If you wanted a forward retracting leg, you'd need some kind of turn-around for the wires in the front fus.

I wonder why 'Former Member' bailed and deleted all his (her) posts?

I'm on my 4th Wot 4 foam-e. The others succumbed to abuse and , er, enthusiasm. It's the best all round hack I've ever had. Geoff - even with the standard motor and prop it will leap off the ground every bit as quickly as a Fun Cub! No flaps though - it doesn't need them. But if you must have flappage, then another Fub Cub or the Tundra is the way to go.

If fixing the u/c to a ply plate, make sure said plate has gussets or similar to transfer loads to the adjacent fuselage formers and sides. Fix the u/c to the plate with blind nuts and 'nylon' bolts. These need to be the harder type. Softer bendy bolts (e.g. the sort you get from SLEC) wont break in a heavy landing and may pull the plate out. The harder type's heads will snap like a carrot...

As an alternative to the above films/tex's, you could use Sig Koverall (aka Dacron). On an open structure it would save the weight of redundant adhesive you'd get with Solartex and similar. You'd need a dope or equivalent finish after heat-shrinking it. My only experience of laminating film is using it to cover a 'Genesis' (Zagi) flying wing. I think it was either the 20 or 30 micron stuff. It was very reluctant to attach itself to the (admittedly, painted) polyprop foam and even when I thought I had a good bond, it lifted within a few days. Negotiating compound curves was out of the question. So, when covering a 'trad' model, how do you ease it around cowlings and wingtips, etc. and does it stick to balsa any better than foam? Are you using much thinner stuff?

Gutted for Scotland, what an epic match. Made Wales' drowning of Ireland look almost leisurely!

IIRC its basis was the long series of articles AS did in one of the mags (RCMW I think?)

Posted by Chris Bott - Moderator on 17/02/2019 21:31:14: Not available commercially but something like this (see thread) would allow easy physical removal/refitting of a Rx. Mind you it would probably cost 1/2 the price of a Rx anyway, really reducing any cost savings. I liked that! In the absence of anything available commercially, what about a 'how-to' in the mag, with links to components (or better - component sets) from a trade partner? (Sarik/Overlander/Nexus?) I suggested something under 10 quid. Alternatively, a bag of bits to do 4 or 5 rxs for, say £20 might be attractive?

Posted by Steve J on 23/01/2019 23:24:55: Pleaded guilty and got a £2000 fine. It was a model aircraft... **LINK** Steve Just been on Google maps to get the lie of the land. He flew just over 1/2k north of the northern runway. There appear to be other places nearby where he could have (legally) gone for a 'quick flip'. Zooming in on the scene of the crime, I notice that BALPA's premises overlook said recreation ground! They probably grassed him up! Re the Met's report, I think ordering his plane to be destroyed is a little melodramatic. I wonder if a constable was ordered to "fwow it wuffly to the gwound..."

Not a claim to be the best, but for the fairly ubiquitous 35 series motors, DYS usually have 5mm shafts instead of the more typical 4mm. Apart from being more robust, it also makes getting a good fitting collet or spinner less of a lottery. I usually got mine from Robotbirds as part of their 'economy' range. Some Turnigy and XYH motors have superficial resemblances (e.g. the frets in the front housing) but even these are machined differently and have different end caps on the 'bell' (yes, they have different bell-ends...), so while the "one factory, different doors" theory may be overstating it, I think it's more likely the case that there are a limited number of producers making a range of standard parts, which are then assembled into 'branded' motors, by themselves and others. So, as others have remarked, it's impossible to say which is the best 'Chinese' motor, but I'd suggest that the best for any particular requirement is one which is well over-specced. Ditto ESCs. Edited By Mike T on 20/02/2019 12:45:04

The biggest problem with all these drills is play in the quill. If you can (and at Aldi and Lidl, you can't) you need to open the box in the store, wind the quill down halfway and check it for play. If you're lucky, you'll get a good one. The types to look out for have a split head, where any play can be adjusted out. These are likely to be more expensive...

Definitely for wheel centreing, as Andrew/MaL say. In the pic above, the tiller arm should be mounted on top of the bracket, where the wires will bear against it to ensure it stays centred when the closed loops go slack. The pic looks like a 'Chinoise' copy of a Robart original...

Good find and nice work! I've found that the type of tubs used in the health supplement section of the supermarket are usually made of a thicker white polythene-y plastic, which can be painted if etch-primed (Prymol or similar) and with a similar useful indentation in the base. The trick is to find the right sized tub with the cheapest contents...

What make is the ESC, Jon? I had a couple of "unintended flight into terrain" incidents with a recent new model, which I isolated to the (supplied) ZTW 'Beatle' 40A ESC/BEC.

What's being flown is pretty vital too. IMV you need a plane that has sufficient mass to punch through a breeze, or it's not easy to tell if all the gyrations are down to pilot or wind input. I look at the ubiquitous Bixler/Easystar types as fair weather trainers only. Sure they can be flown in a breeze (and quite enjoyably) but they do get knocked about a bit and I don't believe that a novice actually learns anything in such conditions. That's far from saying trainees should not fly in wind; they should of course, but with the right kit.

Sundeala is made for the job. I bond mine (lightly) to a known, level substrate - in my case a bench-sized offcut of kitchen worksurface. The current slab has been there about 6 or 7 years and is still as flat as the day it went down. At some point I may give it a light sanding and paste on some lining paper to freshen it up.

Historical note: a version of the ASh-62 was used in some marks of the diminutive I-16 fighter...

FWIW I do the same sort of thing at the other end: ...keeps the wobbly bits inside their supporting tubes...

Just to close this off, I finally found a policy with LV (liverpool Victoria) under which contents in outbuildings are treated as part of the home and with no silly restrictions or definitions around 'aircraft'. Twenty quid less than the Privilege renewal... Sam - thanks for the lead: I tried Hiscox, but after 4 pages, their system decided they didn't want my business! I also tried Walker Midgeley and they sent me the proposal form. The costs are modest, so it's something I'll consider well before renewal for next year. I have to say I'm disappointed with the limited responses. I'd have thought this was a topic of some concern to all forum members...

Posted by kevin b on 01/12/2018 19:36:55: They can be shown as cleared on your account, but they can still be cancelled several days later. This isn't the case. Cheque clearing has been revised in the last 18 months or so. The organisation now responsible for clearing cheques operates a '2-4-6' system. See here: **LINK** Briefly, after 6 working days a cheque is 'cleared' and the money cannot be taken back off you even if the payer's bank subsequently find out the cheque was duff. So as long as you wait 6 working days after depositing, then the money is safe. Not as immediate as other methods, I agree, but they have their problems too...

I'd be more inclined to do a thorough search of the bylaws on the LA's website and elsewhere before consulting them in person. It's too easy for them to say "no" as a fail-safe position, whether supported by the byelaws or not. Beware also of "park-keeper-itis" - a.k.a. "'Ere - you can't do that!!" (When in all likelihood, you can...)

Denis, that link is to a thread concerning the 3rd party liability cover under your home policy, which section now routinely excludes cover where you own*or operate a drone, model aircraft etc. This is not a problem where you have BMFA/FPV-UK/LMA insurance, which covers that risk. What I'm highlighting is that policies now routinely exclude your aircraft and accessories (e.g. your Tx) from cover under your contents policy. So if you get burgled and you have a yacht and a plane nicked, your yacht is covered, your plane is not. That Spektrum DX8 you've got? If you sail model boats and it gets nicked, you're covered. The exact same tranny, when used to fly your model aircraft - maybe not... *I can understand the exclusion while operating a model, but I'm struggling to see in what circumstances a 3PL claim could be refused merely because I owned one?

Posted by Steve Dunne on 07/12/2018 20:13:43: I have been insured by Privilege Home Insurance for several years - very competitive premiums. I have just re-read the legalese and found: Your personal possessions aren’t covered for...   We   don’t pay for loss of or damage to: • ... model aircraft or drones while they are being used .... •... This is a resonable exception - they don't insure model aircraft while they are being used. There is also an exception in the personal liability section for damage caused by owning, keeping or using drones or model aircraft. Quite reasonable.   The model aircraft themselves are insured against normal accident, fire, theft etc. while they are in the building, or hidden in a locked vehicle.   Steve. I agree about the personal liability element - perfectly reasonable to exclude as we have this cover through the BMFA (or others...). However, I re-read my policy booklet ('platinum' ) yet again and can find no such reference to 'model aircraft'. So I spoke to the insurers who confirmed that under their definitions, if my hobby was sailing model boats, I'd be laughing, but as an aeroplane flyer, I'm out! Seriously guys - CHECK YOUR POLICIES - and if yours has the cover I'm looking for, please flag it up here. Meanwhile, I'm going to call Walker Midgeley...   PS - Helpful guy at W-M is emailing me a proposal form, but it seems the insurance is for specific listed items... Edited By Mike T on 13/12/2018 16:48:42

Posted by BackinBlack on 06/12/2018 16:12:09: My current policy with Direct Line doesn't appear to exclude model aircraft, extract from Policy: Your personal possessions are covered for ✔ Accidental loss and damage We will pay for accidental loss of or damage to: • your personal possessions • any other items listed on your schedule under ‘Personal possessions’ while they are within the British Isles. This includes cover for: • possessions stolen from your unattended vehicle, but only if the vehicle is locked and your possessions are hidden from view in a closed glove compartment or locked boot. • loss or damage to bicycle tyres and accessories, but only if the bicycle is lost or damaged at the same time. • the theft of an unattended bicycle, but only if it is in a locked building or secured with a bike lock to an immovable object. Your personal possessions aren’t covered for ✘ We don’t pay for loss of or damage to: • business equipment • vehicles • watercraft propelled by hand (such as a surfboard or rowing boat) • sports equipment while it is in use • camping equipment while it is set up or in use • items taken by Customs or other officials • any bicycle while it is being used for organised racing, pace-making or trials • Money. You may have cover under Section 3B Money. ✘ We also don’t pay for loss or damage: • for theft involving deception • by any paying guest or tenant • covered under Section 2A. Best to check directly with them. Check page 38 of DL's policy for a definition of Vehicles: Any vehicle or toy propelled by a motor of any kind, caravans, trailers, hovercraft, aircraft, watercraft, land yacht, wind powered or assisted vehicles, as well as any of their keys, key-fobs, parts and accessories (except for removable entertainment or navigation equipment while it is removed from the vehicle) ✘ But not the following while being used for their intended purpose and by a person for whom they were designed: • ride-on lawnmowers • electrically powered wheelchairs and mobility scooters • electrically powered children’s ride on toys • electrically assisted bicycles • pedestrian controlled electrically powered golf trolleys • model watercraft • hand-propelled watercraft (such as a surfboard or rowing boat).

I'll take a look at DL's policy wording. Beware though, the exclusion may pop up under another section - mine excluded models under the umbrella of 'vehicles'. If you saw vehicles under the Contents exclusions, you might not think it referred to model aircraft as well, but in my case it did! Annoyingly, 'model watercraft' were excluded from the exclusion (if you see what I mean). So a model boat in my garage is covered, but a model aircraft is not. Barking...