Chris Bott

The plan was free in the July 2014 copy of the magazine. So a back copy with it in may be available. Otherwise Sarik seems to have it here https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/rc2134-red-eagle-plan/ There's a kit available from RBC kits too https://www.rbckits.com/shop/red-eagle-glider-complete-kit.html

Hi George and welcome to the forum. I've removed your email address from the post because leaving it like that makes it very easy for fraudsters to get hold of it. Folk will answer your questions in other posts here. If they wish to contact you directly, they will use the personal message system. Nice looking model, by the way. Chris

18 pages here, if you're really that interested.

Spammer removed.

Pete I've also spotted a NOTAM B1639/22 covering RF jamming activity. I'm not versed in interpreting these but it appears to say that RF jamming could cover a radius of 20nm of Birmingham. FROM: 22 Jul 2022 06:00 GMT (07:00 BST) TO: 09 Aug 2022 23:00 GMT (10 Aug 00:00 BST) SCHEDULE: 0600-2300

@dhendley is there any progress on scaling the ads in the mobile version of the forum. The new Panic ad is still as bad as any have been.

Here we go. I think a lot of us have been waiting to see what the next steps in commercial drones will be. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-62177614.amp

+1

Ooh I should dig that out again, it's quite a while since it flew. Was that the fly in where it gained a new takeoff dolly from you?

That looks great Colin, I'm glad you're back at it. Those were the days eh? Mass builds and mass flying at Greenacres.

@dhendley Is there anything that can be done about the formatting of the mobile version? For me, using Chrome browser on Android, the ad banners appear to be pushing some of the page far over to the right. This means that clicking the "three bars" to see some menu options, the menu appears way off screen to the right. It's really not obvious where to look, until you finally work it out.

Like the article or not, his point is valid - that if glitches or loss of control is in any way possible by the closeness of a phone to the Tx, and, mitigating against it is as simple as having your phone in your back pocket rather than the front, then why wouldn't you? (A metre away would be far better but hey..) I'm sure there's been more than one loss of model over the years this way and expect that there was usually no explanation ever found. Who remembers putting a mobile phone next to a hifi amp and getting a horrid noise from the speakers as a call comes in?

There are a number of good glassing videos on the YouTube channel of our own @Danny Fenton For example:-

I think a bi-directional one would do, Brian? If memory serves me correctly, you'd just need to set the offset voltage to suit, probably to half supply volts? A quick eBay search found this in the UK (and plenty offered from China). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CJMCU-CJMCU-758-ACS758LCB-050B-PFF-T-Linear-Current-Sensor-Hall-Current-Module-/163353797118?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Hi Brian. The article was published in the May 2019 edition. Note: I've sent you a PM too. Chris

Interesting.. I tried the image below and got an error message saying "the link could not be embedded because only https URLs are allowed." Then I tried again but added an s after http

..and in Firefox 93.2.0 on Android. (This is loading more activity at bottom of latest posts)

Load more activity is working quickly for me using chrome on Android.

Martin I think the issue of inserting image using it's URL is often caused by the website that hosts the image not allowing it. I've just failed when trying this option using urls from two different sites and finally had success with a third site:-

Hopefully not too late to add my name? Cheers Chris

Ron I believe these are raw stick outputs recorded in the Tx and are therefore no reflection at all on the RF link or anything in the model. I'd be looking at gimbals and gimbal wires etc. Maybe Tx calibration.

I find the Ender 3 magnetic flexible build plate better for adhesion than a glass one. It's best kept scrupulously clean with IPA. No touching / leaving even the slightest greasy finger prints. No hairspray, no glues or tapes. Leveling is very important too. I replaced mine after about 18 months. PS There is a self leveling (a bit of a misnomer) 'add on' available but fitting it is far from trivial as it requires an Ender 3 software change. Software is yet another hobby all in it's self and getting that wrong can render the machine inoperable.

Excellent video Peter. Worth the wait, I'd say.

I used Cura for a very long time and then tried Prusaslicer just out of curiousity and because they added a printer profile specifically for my Ender 3 pro. I've never gone back. I found the profile almost spot on, I think I just needed to increase print temperature a bit. What you'll find with any slicer software is that there are 1001 parameters that can be adjusted to get the print quality you want. It can be quite a task with lots of failed prints and head scratching untill all the important parameters are right for your machine. A baseline setup for your printer model is always a useful starting point and a good thing to go back to when things start going wrong.

I think this video is well worth a watch. Especially the bed levelling part. https://youtu.be/dQ0q9zLygTY