Rick Tee

If it's been setup the same as a 2S then it could be running too lean in the air. If the tappets have no clearance it might cause it to over heat but there would also be a lack of power. Tank position or plumbing could also cause it to lean out in the air. Edited By Rick Tee on 18/08/2013 07:20:42 Edited By Rick Tee on 18/08/2013 07:20:54

Hehe very good, I was a volunteer motorcycle instructor many moons ago, can't remember anyone ever getting the trafic lights right or what the studs in the road mean. Edited By Rick Tee on 18/08/2013 06:57:08

Posted by Pete B - Moderator on 16/08/2013 11:33:36: Not according to Sec 264 which relates to overtaking on motorways: You should always drive in the left-hand lane when the road ahead is clear. If you are overtaking a number of slower-moving vehicles, you should return to the left-hand lane as soon as you are safely past. Sorry, Daithi, your instructor's advice was incorrect and no more than an urban myth. Those principles have never been part of the Highway Code. Pete There seem to be a lot of driving rule myths, trafic lights is a very common one, ask any driver what the lights mean most will get it wrong. Red = stop, amber = stop, green = proceed with caution, red & amber = stop. There is no GO or get ready to GO or put your foot down. Edited By Rick Tee on 18/08/2013 06:35:48

Are there any fully synthetic fuels? All the ones i've looked at have some castor 2% - 3%. Not that i'd use one without castor, just curious.

Posted by Percy Verance on 14/08/2013 10:15:45: Irvine .46 in mine Bob, not that I fly it a lot. I prefer the sound and general running characteristics of four strokes. The Irvine seems fine to me, but then I'm one of those who feel you can have too much power....... The old fart ways have never let me down yet Ausferret, so I guess I'll be sticking with them....... Those who choose to use new fangled methods or assemble their artf's while hooked up to an i pod can get on with it for me....... I often ask myself how some of these whizz kids would get on without mixing, servo reversing, expo or dual rates? Edited By Percy Verance on 14/08/2013 10:17:37 Sadly it seems the Irvines are no longer available I agree you can over power an airframe exceeding its flight envelope which may result in unpredictable behaviour, not too mention adding too much weight or over stressing the airframe, 'honest guv i didn't do nuffing, the wings just fell off'. I've seen models setup with 50% EPA!!! and they wonder why servo gears strip, not to mention the loss of resolution. I stick with the old ways too.

Stan at Phoenix Models should be able to point you to all local flying sites, slope and power. If you make it to Plymouth call in at the Eddystone MFC we're a friendly bunch who always make visitors and guests feel welcome. Map here Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 14/08/2013 07:27:44

I use the same method as Chris above but with epoxy. Epoxy cleans off just fine with surgical spirit.

I've flown many Tutors 1's and 2's currently teaching 4 new members all flying Tutor 2's. 4 wing bands is not enough, you need 6 and after a couple of outings at least 2 of those will need to be stretched across the fuselage before pulling them over the wing. The recommended 6" bands are too long, when you buy new bands get 5" ones, then you won't have to stretch them across the fuselage. I always put bands on 2 each side parallel to the fuselage and two crossed over to prevent the others sliding off. Crossing them all can allow the wing to rock under stress, try it. The additional stress caused by flying in high winds vs light winds is negligible compared to an emergency pull up or even a reasonably tight loop.

That's a pretty small gap, use a syringe and 30min epoxy, cover with either film or PVC tape. Then it's our secret, no one will ever know.... ... Oh wait this is a public forum. Edited By Rick Tee on 11/08/2013 07:16:08

How will separating the wing make it useless? The joiner is an aluminium tube hence hollow, just put a short 50mm - 60mm tube inside it. Granted cleaning up the root ribs may be tricky but it still beats buying a new wing/kit. As epoxy cures it forms polymer chains, the longer cure time the longer the polymer chains hence stronger and more flexible. As we don't know the extent of the gap better to fill it with a 1hr+ cure time epoxy. Enough strength in the filled joint would avoid covering with wing bandage, which would require the removal of all covering around the center section and modification of the wing seat on the fuselage.

If the gap is wide enough to get a hacksaw blade in you could separate the wings and start again. If you are going to fill the gap use 1hr or greater cure time epoxy and a syringe. Edited By Rick Tee on 10/08/2013 07:06:23

It's unlikely you have compromised the wing strength unless the holes are very large. I build polystyrene foam core wood vaneer wings for all my scratch builds, this is what i would do. Cut the vaneer around the hole without removing any more foam, to give you a nice square shape. Either cut pieces of polystyrene to fit (balsa or EPP will just add weight) or crumble up and mix with just a little PVA (you only want to hold the foam mix together). Fill as level as posible with the core, use a little light weight filler on top it its not level enough. Cover with a piece of balsa sheet glued with PVA, lightly sand level with the vaneer. Edited By Rick Tee on 03/08/2013 06:51:53

Oil based polyurethane varnish (exterior) thinned down 50% with white spirit works great on all internal parts, fire walls etc. Use 4 coats, allow 2hrs drying between coats and 4 days cure before getting any fuel on it. It soaks into the wood, so any splits, cracks, scuffs are still fuel proof. Edited By Rick Tee on 25/07/2013 06:29:39 Edited By Rick Tee on 25/07/2013 06:36:03

Oh darn, i just bought one of those for a new petrol model.

I have noticed some issues at our club field with new hand crank pumps, they refuse to prime unless turned at insane speed. One gave up altogether after about 2 weeks and had to be replaced. I use an Irvine hand pump which has been working fine for 7 years.

Took my 'A' with a Seagull Pilatus PC9 fitted with an irvine 53.

A trainer works fine for those manouvers mentioned, you might want to up the throws a little. Acro WOT should be fine with either of those engines.

Posted by M ouse on 16/07/2013 17:58:55: Hi all As a fledgling flyer and a very new member to this site i have read this thread with great interest and i have a question or two, is the bmfa the only place to get cover or can i get it from else ware as I am never keen to give my hard earned to a monopoly that can set the cost as to what they think is acceptable and could i make a claim for accidental damage to my own plain ect the same as fully comp car insurance. Yes you can get your own insurance, last time i checked cost was around £11 - £20 which I would think is more then your paying through the BMFA. But the BMFA does a lot more then provide insurance. When i learnt to fly there were many sites we could use, most were non club just a few keen modellers and a friendly agreement on frequency control. Noise complaints resulted in almost all of these sites having model flying banned. The few left were protected by forming clubs, affiliating with the BMFA and had heavy restrictions imposed on flying times/days but they are still in use which they probably would not be if the BMFA had not been involved. The site where i learnt to fly is now open only 2 days a week Sundays and Wednesdays from 09:00 to 16:00 and has recently had a complete ban on IC imposed. Yet if you have a neighbour who's dog barks most of the day and half the night you can't get anything done. Peter Christy: I think it very unlikely the government would get involved in any form of licensing for model flying in the event of a public incident, there's simply not enough money in it for them. Far more likely they would impose a blanket ban. Edited By Rick Tee on 17/07/2013 07:47:27 Edited By Rick Tee on 17/07/2013 07:48:01

Indeed, but then insurance is generally full of inclusions, exclusions, exceptions etc. you can never take it on face value so its always best to check. Taking a fee for model flying is not specifically excluded either, just under certain circumstances. Watch out! if your car tyre pressures aren't correct you may not be insured.

Rather then post a wall of text and to avoid any misunderstanding: BMFA handbook 2010, Page 12, Flying Training Cover.

Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 26/05/2013 15:59:31: I think you're right there Pat. Our insurance is strictly for "recreational activity" - ie what we normally do! Any flying where payment is involved - and I see no reason why that should not include payments that go to a charity - are specifically excluded. So my interpretation would be if you are mounting a flying display for a local charity event you very well may not be covered by the BMFA's insurance scheme and should look to arrange alternative cover. In cases like this you can always ring the team at the BMFA - Manny in particular is knowledgable on this sort of issue - they are very helpful and will do their best to give you accurate, well informed, advice. BEB This is incorrect, the taking of a fee is specifically included. Edited By Rick Tee on 16/07/2013 08:50:04

I still fly 35mg though i did do some research a few years ago into the then 2 x 2.4g systems with a view to changing over. As there were a number of incidents reported with the Specktrum/JR system and Futaba receivers were ridiculously expensive i opted to stay with 35mg at that time. Currently I have been looking half heartedly at changing over now the technology has settled some, though there does still seem to be some issues occurring with the Specktrum/JR system but the Futaba receivers have come down in price. I've not come across this issue of temperature with the Futaba gear, do you have any links? Are receivers sold here made solely for the UK and not used anywhere else? Is this problem limited to UK receivers? Are there any reports of heat problems in countries that get hot?

As Simon says check for any metal to metal, if your push rods are metal or CF all the way make sure they can't touch. Use a scanner to check the channel you are using is clear. If the RX aireal is inside the model put it outside, exit the model as close as is practical to the RX, do an engine/motor running range test (TX aireal down) and try another servo on the throttle. If that fails to solve the problem change the xtals. Edited By Rick Tee on 14/07/2013 07:03:30

Or flooring grade chipboard.

My guess is it could be the Spin Doctor.