The Giggler Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 They say its fuel proof , but is it fool proof ! After doing a repair to the bulk head , should I use the fuel proofing before I use epoxy and matting or will it stop the epoxy making a good bond ? Cheers Craig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 glue first fuel proof second Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 Definitely glue first. You want as clean a surface as possible for any adhedsive. Epoxy is an effective fuel proofer anyway so it will protect the areas its covers, leaving you to just do the rest. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Privett Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 Epoxy is a better fuel-proofer than many products that are sold as fuel-proofers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Giggler Posted September 7, 2010 Author Share Posted September 7, 2010 Cheers guys, its only fool proof if you know the answer ! I was unsure of the right way round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Giggler Posted September 7, 2010 Author Share Posted September 7, 2010 Still on the topic, what about areas that are around the engine bay that will be covered in film, mainly the edges ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 I paint epoxy thinned with denatured alcohol in the engine bay area for fuel proofing - so far so goodEdited By John Laird on 07/09/2010 20:40:04 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flytilbroke Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 Solarlac brushed on thinly, possibly thinned with Solarlac thinner first, before covering. Helps with adhesion as well as fuel proofing. A narrow layer painted on top of the edges of the covering and the jobs a good-un. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aslan Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Clear Varnish does the trick also. Glue first as before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Solarfilm Clearcoat ( a sort of clear Solarlac I think ) can be applied to all the edges of the wood first then the Solarfilm or Solartex etc ironed down onto the wood. Then a little Clearcot is applied over all the overlaps. ( keep some Clearcoat clean for this final coat, don't contaminate it with balsa dust from the wood ) When making or repairing any film over film joints that have lifted, clean first and apply Prymol etch primer first, allow to dry ( 5 mins ) and iron down the film. All Solarfilm products and in the Solarfilm instructions I think. Edited By kc on 09/09/2010 11:19:01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Harrison Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 What about a Polyurethane Varnish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i12fly Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Yes for glow fuel but make sure it is the solvent 'high VOC' stuff. The water based 'low VOC' stuff is attacked by nitro glow fuel and becomes sticky. You don't need to ask me how I know.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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