fly boy3 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Hi Trust,y hope you will not be long in hospital, as I am sure you want to start the build. You are correct ,the fill pipe is only used to fill the tank and to emty the tank ,if it still has some fuel in it after the last flight. Ensure the length is not too long that it may hit the prop (I have seen it) , and some form of stopper is used after filling, Re the battery, if you can afford another, buy one that is shaped flat, does the same thing but easier to handle. ps tell the missus that you cannot do house work for a while after hospital, but you can sit at a table and build. LoLEdited By fly boy3 on 19/01/2011 18:40:51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil May Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Hi Trusty The battery I used was the flat type, not the square type you describe. Try to get the pack right up against the tank and secure it (cabletie ) to a former or the wooden dowel which you will fit through the fuselage to hook the wing bands on. If you are using the supplied tank like mine, you have 3 pipes, one for the exhaust fitting, one for the carb and the third you use to fill the tank which you then fit a small bolt or similar in to seal the pipe ( make sure this pipe will not interfere with the prop ) Keep reading the instructions, things make more sense every-time you do . Just ask if you need any more photos, I can always take some and PM you with them Good luck with the hospital B.P Edited By Big Phil on 19/01/2011 18:44:05 Edited By Big Phil on 19/01/2011 18:45:05Edited By Big Phil on 19/01/2011 18:46:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Dorrell Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Hi Trusty, I have been flying my Star for three years now, but not as frequently as I really like. However, my flat pack battery, now a newish Eneloop is up to the back of the fuel tankas described by the others, my radio gear is Futaba with 3003 servos. My point is that the C of G came out in just the right spot. No added weight. Oh ! my motor is a SC 46. Cheers. Alan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 Bonjour F.B 3, Big Phil and Alan, I'm out of hospital woo hoo! I can't walk but i'm out!..... I've decided to give the square battery a go, right behind the fuel tank as suggested by phil, thanks phil... While i've been away my servo's have arrived they are futaba 148's, and I've also got an sc 46.... I will let you know when I start, probably in a couple of days, and keep you updated... regards trusty.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Get well soon Trusty. FB3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Yes Hogster is right the tricycle under carriage is a good starter snd bending the u/c straight is normal when learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mogs Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Hi Trusty Beginner myself, but I've just finished my Seagull Boomerang which is almost identical to the Arising Star. It's probably too late, I had a problem with the tank filler tube, the instructions (pictures)show this tube bending down to reach the bottom of the tank. Well the tube was way too short, so fully draining is impossible this way. Solved by adding a short length of fuel pipe. PS I also tied a short length of fishing line to the back of the tank to help with dragging it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 Bonjour chaps! / Hi mogs, Thanks for the post, I've started to build today, as i can walk!!! i've put the wings together....however along with building comes questions!!! and I have one if anyone could advise me.... The next part of the build is fitting the aileron servo, from the picture it slots under the wing in the square hole... and screws onto the mount... my servo doesn't quite fit due to having a cable comming from the end of it??? is there a way around this or am I missing a trick!!! and how does the cable fit into the receiver?? Hope it makes sense... Thanks as always, trusty... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Hi Trusty, It should fit quite well. Try feeding the servo in at an angle to see if that helps. Cheers FB3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mogs Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Trusty My servos didn't fit either. Test fitting the servo through the plate before the plate is fixed to wing showed it to be much too small, a little bit of dremmeling sorted that. Then matching that up to the box in the wing showed that to be too small too. Dremmel again. Once that was done the servo did fit in theory, but as you say there is insufficient space at the exit point of the servo wire from the servo and the box. Fortunately the box in the Boomerang is not square, it tapers out one end. This gives enough room for the cable once I cottoned on that the servo can be fitted 180 degrees to that shown in the picture. Had that not worked I would have had to resort to cutting out a small hole in the box wall to allow it to fit, I can’t imagine the box being a structural element. I had to dremmel out the servo tray too. Download the instructions, the photo's on my original instructions were grainy, but you can zoom into the pics, it helps a little. http://www.airtekhobbies.com/arisingstar.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil May Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Hi Trusty I used standard Futaba 3003 servos through out my Arising Star , and found that if you put the servo in at an angle, lead side first it should go in. If not a bit of gentle work with a dremmel or similar will amend it. With regards plugging it into the rx, I suggest a short extension lead plugs into the rx and then you plug the aileron servo into the extension lead. This means that you will not be putting wear & tear on the rx every time you assemble/dis-assemble the wing. Please use a securing clip on this plug - very important. My Star is still in one piece so if you need any particular photos, then let me know and I will take some for you. Big Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 Hi Big Phil..... Hi Mogs, Thanks for the reply... Mogs, What servo's have you used???, I will check out that link thanks.... Big Phil, I have futaba 148 servo's I think their similar to yours? I will get an extention lead and securing clips thanks, while i'm thinking about it, if you look into the fuse, there is a small square hole on either side, is this for the charging switch harness thing!!? Oh and before I forget....... Whats a dremmel??????????? Thanks as always... Trusty..... P.S can you recommend a sim?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil May Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 There's no square hole in mine as you describe, but make sure you fit the switch on one of the sections of the fuse' which is double thickness. A single piece of balsa will soon weaken in time. Have a look in the Argos catalogue at the dremells, they are a small hand held power tool that you can fit grinding discs etc on. I bought a RC Plane Master sim, about £20, very basic but very cheap. It will help no end with your practising . All the best Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mogs Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Trusty Servos are the same as big Phil - Futaba S3003 Dremmel http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-F0130300MR-Multi-Tool-300-30/dp/B002LARRQC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=diy&qid=1296808542&sr=1-2 Other manufacturers are available The instructions for the Arising Star (and Boomerang) for mounting the harness switch are misleading (but not wrong). The small rectangular hole has a small round hole either side - correct?. Use holes on the left hand side for the switch ie. opposite side to the exhaust. The "On" position should be towards the back to prevent accidental switch off from anything kicked up by the propeller. You can see the switch in Lee's photo above and the unused holes on the right side. The advice from our club guru (as is all I've quoted) is to mount the aileron extension socket vertical to the fuselage in a position that when the wing is in position it prevents the wing side plug from being released.Edited By Mogs on 04/02/2011 09:11:55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Bonjour chaps!! Thanks for the advice so far....... The build is going well, can I ask a quick question re the servo's...... when placing them in the servo tray I thought they just screwed in position after drilling some pilot holes, however the servo's come with some square rubber things!! do they get screwed down too?? thanks as always, trusty.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Hi Trusty, the square rubber things are called grommets, and they fit over each corner of the servo to accomodate the little brass ferrule. They are a bit fiddly to mount but percevere as they are designed to stop the sevo screws squashing the servo corner. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 The servo rubbers can be a bit difficult at times. I find the following sequence easiest: Squeeze the rubber in to the cutout until it is sitting comfortably, then insert the ferrule from underneath the mount, so that the swaged end will be in contact with the bearer. Make a pilot hole for the servo screw ( a touch of cyano can be added to harden the wood for the thread) and tighten down until it just touches the ferrule. This should insulate the servo from any engine vibration. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 I second that Pete .Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 Bonjour Chaps, I think the build is going well....I just hope she fly's!!! I have a question or two if I may.......... I'm going to fit the battery behind my fuel tank as far as it will go, and pack around with sponge, then I was going to fit the receiver behind the battery and again pack around sponge... how do we secure the receiver down or is there a better place to put it???? my other question is once fitted, I plug the servos into the receiver, do I plug in the battery and the charging switch, so all slots will be used???? .......Too many plugs!!!!!! confused!! Many thanks, Trusty.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Hi Trusty, What radio gear are you using ? If it is Futaba the following applies Channel on receiver 1=aileron, 2=elevator, 3=throttle, 4=rudder. as for the switch , one lead to battery, one lead to receiver, the other is for your charger. There are many ways to secure the receiver, but it should be well wrapped in foam first. Cheers Edited By fly boy3 on 06/03/2011 16:41:15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Just a quick note of caution. If your receiver is 2.4 my advise would be check the installation instructions carefully before wraping it in foam - they can overheat very easily! Indeed Futaba make a specific point about this in their installation guide. Personally, these days I fix receivers down with "No More Nails" double sided tape - available from B&Q. Not cheap, but works very well and one roll will do lots of installations as you only need a little bit. I've not had a rx fixed with this stuff come loose yet! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Well advised BEB. I am still on "steam" 35MHz, I was unaware of the no wrapping advice for 2.4Ghz. cheers, also will give the "no nails" tape a go myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 FB3 / BEB, Thanks for the reply..... FB3 im also steam driven 35 mhz !!!!! my radio came with a starter deal from galaxy models...... I like the sound of this "no more nails tape", i'm hitting B&Q in the morning...... Do you recommend sticking it to the base of the fuse?? Regards trusty.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Hi Trusty, the foot must have got well then, as you are back on the board. As you are on 35MHz, the advice given is wrap in foam, then I would fit it to the fus, bottom where you have room, and close to the servos as well. the position is not critical. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve 1 Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Hi Trusty, i fix my 2.4 rx down with self adhesive velcro, it makes it easier to get off if needed or put in another plane and also helps against vibration. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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