Trusty Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 Bonjour everyone!, I've decided to post on this topic as i can now call myself a beginner! Santa delivered an arising star.... now the only small problem is building it!!! Has anyone got any photo's of their star they can put on to give me some idea! I've read the instructions but seeing is believing!.... can anyone explain what all the push rods are for in the inside...and how do the rudder and elevators get connected??? Many thanks trusty.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo565 Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 Trusty,This is what the servo connections look like,If I remember correctly the Star has wire rods running in plastic tubes.this is my Zulu ET but the princple is the same. Rudder and elevator rods exit the fuz in line with the plastic horns that you have to fit to the elevator and rudder surfaces. The rudder servo also operates a push rod to the steerable nose wheel. Hope this helps and I feel sure someone will have a pic, of the Star installation.JIm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 Sorry don't have a Arising Star Trusty. But the push rods are usually straight forward. There will be two going backwards - usually wood, and possibly one going forward - often just a piece of stiff wire in a plastic tube. All this sound familar so far? OK the two going back are for the elevator and rudder. The one going forwards is for the throttle. There is usually a "Z" bend in the wire attached to the forward end of the ones going back - put that into the hole in the servo arm - once you've screwed the servo down! You may have to enlarge the hole (just a little bit) if so use a 2mm drill bit. The other end of the rods also have a bit of wire attached usually with a short threaded section - yes? A clevis - plastic or metal thing, looks like a two pronked fork and will be in a bag in the kit - screws on there. And the "pin" at the end of the clevis goes in a hole on something called a "control horn". You will have some control horns in a bag in the kit. They are sort of triangular in shape with 3-4 holes along one side of the triangle. Thes control horns sre screwed onto the elevator and rudder. When you screw them on - be careful to make sure that the line of holes in the control horn is in line with the control surface hinge. I'll see if I can find a photo of that for you. Hope this helps until someone can show you a picture. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil May Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 Hi Trusty. If I get a chance later I will take some photos and up load them to this post. If not today I will do it over the weekend, still half asleep after 16 hr afternoon/night shift. B.P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil tobin Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 Hi Trusty, I take it you got the answer to your charging switch harness on your other thread ok? I've never built this model so i'm not totally sure but i've been looking at the build instructions & your rudder & elevator push rods need to be threaded through the fuz & out the exit holes at the rear, the rudder exits through the top of the fuz at the back & the elevator exits out the very end of the fuz. Page 12 & 13 of the instructions shows you how to connect the rudder & elevator to their push rods. You also have a push rod for the steerable nose wheel & there are push rods to connect the ailerons to the aileron servo. My advice would be to take your time & read through the instructions carefully & completely before you attempt to build anything, once your happy, work on small sections at a time, trial fit things as much as pos' then start cutting/fitting/glueing or whatever, it will save later. Also, have a look around for a build blog on this model on this or other forums, you may struggle being that it's ARTF but better to learn from other people's mistakes where possible... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Wilson Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 Trusty pic of the servos in my old Arising star. Top left is throttle, bottom right is nose wheel steering and rudder and top right is elevator. My receiver was fastened to the foam you see stuck just behind the fuel tank and my battery sat in the fuel tank area. The aileron servo is in the wing and dont have a photo of that I'm afraid. Hope that helps, Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil May Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Hi Trusty Are these any help to you Elevator servo on the left as you look at it, Rudder and nose wheel on the right ( this is looking towards the rear of the model ) Throttle Servo showing the route the snake takes ( Right ). Left side shows the snake for the nose wheel Location of the rudder horn The elevator push rod exits as shown in the centre of the fuse' The Arising Star is a fantastic trainer, it has served me well. I have had mine for three years and use it to teach my son. I hope these photos are of some use, if I can help in any other way PM me B.P Edited By Big Phil on 08/01/2011 14:47:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Bonjour Trusty. Welcome to rc flying and I hope all the above is helping you. Do you have a club near you as if you go along you will get wealth of knowledge and experience for free. If you have not flown a model before then a member will check it over, take it up and trim it out. I you try on your own there is nothing surer than you will end up with firewood. Most of all take your time and enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 Bonjour chaps! Thanks for the posts,, the info and pics are great! Im gonna print this out and stick it to my workbench (dining room table!).... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 bonjour again.......can i ask another question....... I thought i put this post on already but cant find it......the fuel tank is really long does it get cut up into 3 parts to fit the pipe and vent pipe etc... Thanks again trusty..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo565 Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Trusty, Thou shalt not cut up the fuel tank unless you want fuel sloshing around inside the fuz, The 3 pipes,feed/vent and fill are pushed through the tank stopper and then inserted into the tank ( just like a ship in a bottle) and then tightened up with the centre screw to prevent any leaks. keep the questions coming , Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 Hi Jim..... Thanks for the reply, did I type fuel tank!!! I should have said fuel line...........I was under presure with the kids!!!!! The ship in a bottle! I get it now..... In the instructions it say's cut a piece of fuel line and also insert into tank creating a longer ship in a bottle.... Then.... it shows the end of the tank with 3 seperate fuel type lines attached to the vent and fill etc...they go towards the engine, is this the one piece of fuel line I got with the engine cut into equal parts???... I hope this makes sense!!!! Many thanks trusty.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo565 Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Trusty, You have it in one my man , Get the tank as far forward as it will go and then measure the length of tube you will need to reach the carb.and do the same with the vent pipe which goes to the pressure nipple on the silencer, the fill pipe needs to be just long enough for easy access and short enough to keep it away from the prop. no probs keep asking the questions,we all started where you are now. Jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r6dan Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Hi Trusty, make sure you cut the clunk line in the tank the correct length so it can clunk around when you are flying vertical and upside down, Also set the control surfaces as stated in the destructions and put a touch of expo on the elevator too,it really helps to smooth out inputs when you are learning landings, Once you feel comftable with the plane give the surfaces as much movement as you can then you can really throw it around the sky!! I don`t know if it has been mentioned yet but the landing gear is crap on the Arising star,even with with the best landings it bends like spaghetti!! you should consider making it a tail dragger,its really easy to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Hi Trusty - more advice! Just to pick up on what Ross said. A key point is that the clunk tube that goes into the tank must be able to "flop" about as Ross says. Make it long enough to reach the back of the tank - but it mustn't touch the back - that way lies a stopped engine! Cut the tube so that inside the tank it finishes a couple of millimetres short of the back wall, and does what it says on the tin - ie it "clunks" up and down and side to side as you rotate the tank! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil May Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 I'm sorry, but I don't agree with r6dan about the u/c, a bit of spring in it is a blessing when learning to land. Much easier to bend it back to shape than rebuilt a ripped out mounting. As I said, mine is 3 years old and still on the original u/c. What I do agree with is set the throws as stated and a bit of expo on the elevator will help with the flair on landing. B.P P.S Something to consider is fitting the battery under the fuel tank as far forward as possible. I did this and the model balanced perfect with no added weight. Edited By Big Phil on 08/01/2011 19:51:36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r6dan Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 @ Big Phil,I have to admit I only changed the under carriage once I could land properly so you could be right. I fitted my battery under the tank too and it balanced up nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 In my experience most trainers spend most of their time between flights getting their u/c bent back into position. Nose wheels particular tend to take a right hammering in the hands of most learners! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg 1 Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 HI GuysI am just about to start learning to fly with a Arising Starand was worndering about changing it to a tail drageras my club field is grass and the trike undercaragesseam to strugle on it, also when ( along time in the furture ) I can fly I would like to build and fly scale W W 1 biplanesAny Ideas or help would be greatly appreciated REG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogster Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 I started on tricycle u/c and had the same problem with the nose leg getting bent and pulled out of its fixings due to heavy landings. I converted it to tail dragger and loved it. Take offs were a bit more difficult. Not so easy to keep in a straight line. But landings were sweet. However, one day the rear of the fus developed a crack by the tail wheel. So the problem just shifted back. I had another trainer with a tricycle u/c and it was so easy to t/o and land I stuck with it. I think it was simply a case of me getting better at it and it wouldn`t matter what format the u/c was. My advise would be to stick with the tricycle, at least until you cant repair it anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r6dan Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Posted by Reg 1 on 09/01/2011 18:00:42: HI Guys I am just about to start learning to fly with a Arising Star and was worndering about changing it to a tail drager as my club field is grass and the trike undercaragesseam to strugle on it, also when ( along time in the furture ) I can fly I would like to build and fly scale W W 1 biplanes Any Ideas or help would be greatly appreciated REG To convert it you you need a standard aluminium landing gear make sure the flat with the bolt holes is the same width as the bottom of the fus,some wheels,if the strip is bumpy the bigger the better! 2 m4 bolts and 4 nyloc nuts for axles and a steerable rear wheel. You will need to strengthen the fus where the new gear will go,I cut a piece of 4mm ply to fit on the fus floor under the tank,glued that in with PVA then around that glued some stock triangle, I put the gear in with m4 t nuts about level with the LE of the wing,with the gear legs swept forward and it seems to taxi well. For the rear wheel you need to remove the last 35-40 mm of covering on the fus bottom and glue a piece of light ply to that to mount the wheel on to (then just follow the instructions with the rear wheel) and bingo,a tail dragger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 Hi guys, As ever some great advice, many thanks.... I've noted on the photo's that people have foam inside their fus, is it another trip to B&Q!!!,? also as sugested placing the battery under the fuel tank, would that be inside some foam with the tank on top?? i've got a NIMH battery, it looks like 4 AA batteries stuck together! is this the correct battery? Thanks guys Trusty.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil May Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Sounds like the right battery to me Trusty, make sure if you use an extension lead that you use a securing clip to keep the 2 plugs together. I packed foam around the battery and fuel tank, depending on your choice or radio ( 2.4 or 35 meg ) you may want to wrap the rx in foam. I use cheap decorators sponges from Wilkinson's, or the like, to protect batt etc. B.P Edited By Big Phil on 10/01/2011 12:57:18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 Thanks phil, I've got some gash sponges from tesco's!! Regards trusty... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Bonjour chaps, Thanks for all the info, it really helps...... I've read the instructions loads together with all advice and photo's, and tried to trial fit everything! I'm going into hospital tomoz to have my cruciate fixed, (thank god!) and when I get oot I will start the build, I did try to start the wings today but the wife wanted a room painting!!!.. Anyway as usual i have couple of questions...... Big Phil and r6dan suggest fitting the battery under the fuel tank, I have tried but it's very tight, it tips the fuel tank up and forward slightly, is this right??? I can fit the battery right behind the fuel tank, but I'm unsure if that will do the trick, my battery is like a cube, 4 double A battery types stuck together!! And.......... when you pull the pipes forward from the tank towards engine, i take it the fill pipe doesn't connect to anything?..... I hope all makes sense, thanks again.... Reagrds trusty.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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