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Savex 57" Spitfire, fully composite, electric beauty


propogandhi
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I first saw this model many years ago but only now have I now been in a position to get one. I ordered it direct from the factory as I wanted a few custom extras. It arrive a few weeks ago very well pack. It was a good start that just got better as I opened the box.
 
I requested a few changes to the production kit. Flaps where cut out at the factory, but I'll still need to figure out the mechanics of them. Also didn't fancy making and installing the motor mount myself as I don't have the tools for the job, so this was another custom factory job and a fantastic job they've done too. Its a full carbon fibre mount cut to fit my Axi 4130/16, which is does perfectly. The entire motor bay is reinforce with carbon cloth too, so I'll have to be sure to keep my Rx out of that area.

As I said, we've been a long while thinking about this model, and I know I didn't want to have to remove the wing every time I wanted to change the battery, so , I thought the best location for the lipo/battery hatch was under the motor. Fortunately Savex offer a tropical filter option for this model as standard. The removable filter seemed like the perfect solution, and again it fully represents the RHAF (Greek) Spitfire I want to model. I asked savex for an extra canopy too so I can play around with a sliding canopy later, yet have one spare if it all goes wrong!

I basically have all the electronics I need, set-up will be thus:
 
Axi 4130/16
5s 3500-5000 lipo
Castle creation 60amp esc
2 x HS 225 MG's (elevator and rudder)
2 x HS 82 MG's (ailerons)
2 x HS 56HB's (flaps)
eflite 25-46 electric retracts
eneloop 5cell Rx pack
AR8000 rx with telemetry system
 
I also brought a DX8 and I think the servo set-up options it offers over my DX7 will be a great benefit when setting up the model. AUW RTF I'm aiming for is no more than 7.5lbs and I should get over 1000w, though I'm not entirerly sure what prop I'll use yet.
 
Unfortunately the model had some 'paint damage' in transit, caused I'm told by the bubble wrap it was wrapped in reacting an x-ray machine it must have gone through. The result of which are these 'blotches' on the finish. I'll have to spray another coat of silver over the model to fix this, but this is actually no bad thing as I'm sure to have marks on the model I'd want to cover by the time I've finish putting her together anyway.
 
I made a start a recently, with the flaps. Initially I was trying to hinge with brass rod and tube, but the whole exercise proved quite frustrating to do to a satisfactory level, so I've since decided to added hinges just under the skins surface, which in testing last night seems to be the best way forward.
 
Also stole a trick from the plastic modellers for an easy yet subtle weathering trick. I't called 'weathering wash'. You simply brush on the solution and it runs into the panel line and other details moulded into the surface (much like a plastic kit). Leave it to dry for an hour then wipe clean. Any solution below the surface stays in the grooves of the detail and really helps bring them out. I'll do a full job once the model is complete with markings etc.
 
this really is a beautiful model, one of the best I've seen for a Spitfire in this scale. I haven't seen a UK build thread for one before, so I hope you guy's will enjoy the ride with me.
 

 
as she arrived fresh from Czech factory
unpacked and laid out, fresh from the box.
damage to the finish
dry run of motor and battery position
tropical filter, acting as battery/motor access hatch
the now dismissed brass hinge method
new approach to flap hinge, small slop just under surface
hinge in place (I may use a hinge cut from heat shrink as it is more flexible)
 
surface before weathering wash
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wash applied
results, subtle but effective I think
the wash product.
the scheme I'm going for, a nod to my Sister in Greece her Greek husband and kids.
 
I hope to have her finish fro Christmas, so progress might be a little slow. Link to Savex website: SAVEX SPITFIRE
 
more to follow.
 
prop.

Edited By propogandhi on 15/09/2011 19:11:19

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Looking very nice.....arent you worried about lack of noise with the leccy motor, sometimes i feel that lil something is missing when i fly my leccy Spitfire.....the sound of a 4stroke thump,ok not a merlin sound but it sorta helps.
Lovely looking model tho

Edited By Mark Rowse on 15/09/2011 21:05:15

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Hi Mark thanks. Yes that is probably the one thing I do really miss about flying glow (especially 4-strokes) and that is the noise, but its a sacrifice worth making for all the other benefits
 
Now that I'm happy with the flap hinge method, I could start on the servo's for them. Note much this evening, just made up the mountings for the HS 56HB's. This will be glued to the inside of the wing, and the servo easily secured with the 3 mounting screws. I love these hitec servo, it would have been a different job had it not been for the side mountings.
 


prop.
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Thank you David. Unfortunatly I was away last weekend and will be attending Baldocks electric fly-in even on this coming Sunday so I'll not be able to work on her until after that unless I get some time in the week. But we have to make the best of the flying become it turns too cold and dark.
 
prop.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Managed to get the flaps to a level I'm happy with now in terms of functionality. I was having trouble getting the flap L/E and T/E to line up nice and flush and found that the flap was actually a little warped. The brass tube glued on whilst the flap was pushed onto a flat surface sort this out and the left flap is now good to go with minimal gaps too.. I rigged the left flap up for a test run and have a little clip below of it in operation. I'm happy with the results.
 
My set of e-flite 90 degree 25-46 electric retracts arrived this week too. I must say the quality of these units is really something. The fit OK too, just need to pack out the mounting area a little.

The other flap still needs doing but it shouldn't take as long, I know what I'm doing Once I have the flaps done then its onto the ailerons then retracts. I think I might be able to keep my control rods and horns internal as well, but I'll think on this more later.





 

 

prop

Edited By propogandhi on 01/10/2011 20:26:56

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video:

Edited By propogandhi on 01/10/2011 20:31:14

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  • 1 month later...
Its been a while but I've not had much to report. However I've now reached the stage were the wing is basically complete. The flaps and installed and working and so are the retracts, so tonight I had a little mock up just to get an idea how it will look. I'm pretty pleased with it so far, now I need to work on the wing mounting, which will take a little extra work as the fit isn't exactly perfect and needs some sanding and trimming to get right.
 
 
 
 



 
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Thank you gents. After quite a bit of sanding I have the wing seating better to the fuzz now. Its my wifes birthday tomorrow, but I hope that by the end of the weekend I could have at least found some time to have got the wing/fuzz drilled and mounted etc. After that the real fun starts with the fuzz, been looking forward to that so it will be a bit of a mile stone for me.
 
more soon, and thanks for the interest.
 
 
prop.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Well the wing can be mounted now, and after quite a bit of sanding, it fits well. With the wing done I moved onto the battery/servo tray in the model. Not only will this serve as a base to attach all electronics, it also help reinforce the model from the inside, as you could squeeze the fuzz a little too much for my liking before.

The tray is cut from 4mm ply. I was really looking forward to cutting this as I had brought a electric bench mounted fret saw especially for the job and now have finally got to use it. I was please with how well it cut, there was no way I wanted to cut this ply by hand! The tray at the front end has tabs and they rest on the inside opening of the exhausts, so the tray is supported. Installed with my 'glass epoxy' glue, the ply is rock solid and it really firms up the fuzz.

I'll move onto the push rods and tail wheel next and i plan to have the model ready to test flying over the Christmas break. Once I know it flies, then I'll make it look pretty.
 
prop
 




 
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  • 3 weeks later...
Well, that's the last of the major work to get this bird flying done now, so my goal of having her ready to test fly by Christmas seems attainable

Below are some pictures of the progress made from the last time I posted. The most frustrating part of this time was the elevator system. I had originally opted for a 'snake' type system as successfully used by the rest of you guy's. But for what ever reason mine ended up with a bend in the snake just as it exited the sleeve at the elevator. This resulted in far to much slop in the surface for my liking so it was promptly ripped out and replace with a solid dowel just like I already had on the rudder. Both are slop free now

The steerable tail wheel took a little head scratching too. I opted to have to separate rods for the rudder, a small wire one for the tail wheel and a dowel for the rudder. They link at the servo horn and the system seems to have worked well, but we'll have to see how it holds up at the field.

For the tropical filter AKA the battery hatch, rare earth magnets were used to good effect, the hatch being held firm enough to stay attached in flight (I hope), yet easy enough to remove with a little force. I'm really happy Savex have this option as it makes battery/motor access a breeze when flying.

With the model together I couldn't resist putting her on the scales. The model has a dry weight of 2120g (with no electronics), and happily a RTF AUW of approx 3425g (7lbs, 6.5oz). This is 500g less than savex show on there instruction sheet, so I'm please with this, though I can get this down a little further once I've swapped out these rubber wheels for foam and shortened the excess length of the servo wires.

So structurally the model is basically complete. Ascetically though she's a long way off and I can see I'm going to need to spend quite a bit of time getting her looking good as I'm made a few errors with the surface that will need rectifying plus the seam from the mould join will need taking care of. But that is for next year

Just the electronics to install now and the model to set up. I've also checked the CG, with the battery siliconed up the front and the battery in the ideal position, its looking like I won't have a problem achieving the correct CG. I'm also now wondering about what prop to might be best? I'm running from a 5s 4000mah lipo and I've got a 15x8,16x8 and 16x10 to play with, anyone have an educated guess as to what one might be best?
 
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Well it looks like mine will be running 6s now. Tested my 5s pack last night and at full throttle I was getting a max of 430w @22-23amps! Had castle creations tech support on the phone at the same time as I also had a problem with the esc cutting out (easily fixed thanks to Tom at CC via the CC-Link). He got the same results from the eagleTree set-up programme. That also showed that with a 6S pack I'd be getting a great deal more power. Using either an APC 16x8 or 15x8 prop (I think I'll go for the bigger prop ans you mentioned Tim) and with my motor and a 6S pack it predicted 750-800w at 42-48amp at full throttle. Seeing as my model is weighing in @7.5lbs, 6S is the answer to get me over the 100w/lb mark, which I think is a good figure to aim for with this model.

I ordered a 6S pack last night and should have it tomorrow so I'll be able to test this theory in the coming days. Fortunately, the 5S 4000mah pack is over a year old I guess (but without much use), and in that time packs have become smaller it seems. The 6S 4000mah lipo I ordered is only a little wider than the 5S pack and only 40g more in weight, so I'm getting more than the power I need (I hope) for little weight penalty.

Well, just some final bench testing, fitting of canopy (only with tape, just for the test flight) and some final set-ups, oh and Christmas dinner, then I can't see why she shouldn't be ready to test fly in time for the holiday weekend. Depending on the weather of course.

Edited By propogandhi on 20/12/2011 19:10:37

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Hi Stephen, nice to know there's some interest out there and thank you. BTW, I was hoping to fly my Funcub from the snow using the MPX floats this Christmas time, but the weather looking too good for that
 
Received and tested my 6s 4000mah lipo today, but only had time to test it on the one prop, the 15x8 APC. On that I was getting just over 800w for a modest 34amps. Happy with that as my AUW will be not much more than 7.5lbs, so I've got more than 100w/lb to play with. I'll test it on a 16" prop tomorrow, just to see what I get, but I think I'll just stick with the 15x8

prop.
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Its flown, a little tail heavy unfortunately as it was fish tailing a bit a was overly sensitive in pitch. I'll try it next time with the bigger, higher capacity 6s lipo and see if that helps. AUW RTF was 3500g (7.8lbs), was under the 4000g max suggested by savex.

Take off was simple and the model tracked well with good power at full throttle and a relatively short run before she was off the deck. She did need quite a bit of up elevator and the tail heaviness soon made itself know, but the heavier battery should solve this and the need for so much elevator up trim. I also found the suggested elevator throws too much so those where dialled down, which help tame the tail a little more.

Power was good at full throttle, but I felt I didn't have enough around the mid throttle was I'll try the 15x10 and maybe even the 16x8 prop. I was happy with the speed, so I guess more torque is what I'm wanting. If that is the case, do I need to just increase the pitch of the prop and not the Length, so change my 15x8 to a 15x10 would be the correct thing to do?

Testing the stall, she did drop a wing to the right, which was to be expected, but she recovered very well. Happily she slowed to quite a slow speed before doing so as well. So whilst certainly no Parkzone warbird when it comes to the stall, I didn't find it anything other than predictable and mild. Again this maybe improve with the CG adjusted. Last test was the flaps. I had initially mixed in some down elevator to flap mixed to compensate the extra drag/lift generated by them and to keep the nose up. As it turned out she pitched down with this, so the mix was disabled and there was absolutely no pitch change in either the mid or full flap position, which is just what I was hoping for. The result was the Spitfire slowed really very well and with no sign of a stall.

The gear and flaps where tucked up and after 9 mins passed on the timer I set her up again for her first landing. Both approach speed and height where go and the flaps/gears lowered, all was going well until I made contract, not with the grass, but with the only clump of weeds on the strip! The model was stopped dead and yanked around on the undercarriage, resting at an awkward angle. The force of the abrupt stop had broke the right landing gear unit and loosened the entire tail unit from the fuzz!

Sadly this killed any chance of quickly making some adjustments and trying again with the heavier battery. I now have to wait until tomorrow until I can speak with Horizon Hobby. I'm hoping they'll have a replacement part for my retract unit, and they can get it out to me in time for the weekend. The weather is not looking good until then anyway, but I would like to fly her again before the end of the holiday.

No pictures, but if I get the part in time we'll have some by the weekend.

prop.
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Hey Tim, thanks for replying. Yeah, not too bad, in fact I'd go as far to say that if it wasn't for the broken U/C, I would have been able re-fly her with the bigger pack and all would have been well. Such is life.
 
I thought I was confussed with my prop statement, hence it was more of a question than a statement so thank you for picking up on that. I have a 16x8 prop so I'll try that if I get the replacment part in time.
 

 
Many thanks
 
 
prop.
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  • 6 months later...

Ok well I've finally been able to put some consecutive flights on her and very happy I am too.

I had reverted back to the original rubber wheels for this 3rd flight (I swapped them for light weight foam wheels and save myself almost 1/2 lb, but it seems I needed the weight the extra weight as she flew much better with the heavier wheels, hence I'd put them back on) and she's happy again.

The 1st flight all those months ago was fine apart from screwing up the landing and breaking the U/C. Then before the second flight I thought I'd be clever and try and save some weight with the lighter foam wheels, but that just played havoc with the CG. Now back with the original wheels and half decent weather I've been able to get two really good flights on her today.

T/O on both was perfect, she tracked well and responded nicely to rudder input with plenty of power. Because I was flying from the local club with a BIG grass strip I was able to take my time and let her lift off under her own power into the climb. She did have plenty of power, so much so that I didn't even got full throttle until a few mins into the flight. She loops and rolls very well and more importantly will slow to a nice pace before stalling. When she does its a gentle drop of the wing and a quick recovery.

After 7 mins I lined her up for landing and lowered the U/C. the sink rate is very good and she remains controllable all the way through the approach and reduction of speed. I didn't put the flaps down and she came in quite fast, but floated along for a nice touch down.

2nd flight was more of the same, though I practiced the landings some more and not once did she nose over, so I think I'm getting the hand of her now. I got 14mins of mixed flying on the second flight! At the end of the two flights and with about 8 landings and T/O's the U/C still feel rock solid too, so I'm pleased about that.

All in all I'm very happy with her and happy in the knowledge that when ever the time comes that I'll be able paint her, I can jump straight in and not worry about testing the model. One of the best flying models I've had and well worth the effort, and good proper warbird introduction.

Finally my sister shot a little video of one of my last flights last weekend at my home strip, so here it is:

Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 22/07/2012 12:01:18

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Excellent model, well flown. Can't wait to see it with a paint job! The tropical filter detracts a bit from the Spit's natural beauty, but it makes it less common and you mentioned the practical benefits.

I don't agree with the earlier comments about the noise - at least not for a Spitfire type model. Whilst a 4-stroke powered Moth or SE5 sounds appropriate, a WW2 fighter sounds completely dfifferent, and electric is no further from being "right". The other benefit of the leccy power is no unsightly hunks of aluminium sticking out of the nose!

Your strip looks beautifully manicured, but I bet it gets interesting in a crosswind!

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Hi Trevor, thank you. Yes the tropical filter makes for great scale air in and a battery bay too. I agree though, she doesn't have the 'classic' look, but I went for practicality over personal preference. It will be a few years yet before I finish her as I now live and work in Hong Kong, but I think with the additions of the cannons, aerial mast's and a good scheme will help bring her closer to Spitfire prestige...

And yes cross wind landings are interesting, but a good kick of the rudder just before touch down seem to do the trick, most of the time anywaywink

prop.

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