62.5 Inch Tony Nijhuis Spitfire Build Log.

[GrahamC]

You like the 'kick the rudder' take off did you?!

I think that the OS surpass would be great. You would need to carve the cowl out a little more, but not a lot. I'm sure it could be done, and the extra weight would only help. The build took me six months, and I reckon the funly probably took about two, and I suspect that somthing like the Hornet would be pretty quick too.

I think that the issue is that this is not an "everyday, try out new things, improve my flying" aeroplane. I took it the field yesterday, but didn't put it together. The wind was all over the place and so I stuck with the WOT 4.

I thnk that the Spit is not too difficult to fly but does like to fly fast, and will eat up the sky much faster than your funfly. In fact its probably better suited to the wind than my WOT4, but I'm more risk avaerse with it.. Landing with the flaps is fairly straightforward. Takeoff is OK once you a rolling, but there is a nack to starting the roll with full up elevator, but releasing it before takeoff!

Cost wise, on top of the kit, and engine, I probably spent somewhere around £200 getting this in the air, so that's worth bearing in mind, becasue its frustrating to start a build and have to stop work becasue of cashflow. You need to budget for... retracts, oleos, wheels, servo holders, extension leads, hinges, horns, push rods, clevises, fuel tank, engine mount, switch, servos, material for flaps, glass cloth [3-4m] resin/PolyC, paint, masking tape, spinner, and assorted screws and bolts etc. Some you can buy as you go along, but other bits you need during the build. You do need your retractsm oleos and wheels to build the wings.

I know you have the funly and are working on the Domino, maybe it would be good to build another, slightly faster chuck it about aeroplane first? Maybe get that old WOT4 I saw a picture of flying first and then take your time putting a Spit together while you are sharpening up your flying.

I have to say that I've noticed with my own son (nearly 16) and the other lad at the club of the same age, that youngsters, if they have an aptitude for it develop a raw ability to fly much quicker than older learners BUT are less risk averse..

I've not seen you fly, but I reckon my lad would be fine with the Spit. He hasn't, and probably wouldn't if offered, becasue if he were to stuff it in that might be tricky!

[Concorde Speedbird]

Thanks for the reply. Well I have the engine, the OS, so that is one cost marker out of the way. We have most of the other parts anyway, like servo holders, fuel tank and lots more so that is not much of a problem. We also have loads of glass cloth. But retracts and oleos we don't have, and even my Dad has never used retracts in a plane before. Wheels I can get at Pegasus, they have some suitable ones there.

I could either get the Hornet or get the old, now glass clothed (it had a crash-hence the reason the original wing is gone!) Wot 4 going. The Hornet would need an engine, so the trusty Wot would be a lot cheaper. Think I may get that up in the air with servos we have, put the 70 up front. While practising with that and the Domino (got to use the receiver and servos from the Funfly so that will be temporarily grounded) I can save and get the Spit, with retracts etc.

Got to finish the Domino first! Think I am flying the Funfly tonight as well, can't wait!

Thanks for all the help, very useful. Your Spit is lovely, I would probably model mine on a camo one, perhaps a more obscure one like MK392, which also had invasion stripes.

CS

Recognise this Spit?

[P/o Prune]

I've just bought the plans for this (bautiful) plane.
I wan't to "modify" it to a Mk.II instead of a Mk.IX though, and instead of making it a r/c model, I will make it a display model.
This is all very well, and I can't see any big problems in that, other than I'm going to have a lot of fun in the "garage" this winter.
My problem is that I wan't to make the model as detailed as possible and I'm looking for drawings showing the flight control attachements. Rudder, Aileron and Elevator in the cockpit.
I've been searching the net, google and whatever... Anyone have any ideas? (I'm listening)

Regards

[Stephen Grigg]

Ive a book on Spitfires somewhere I will try and locate it see if there is anything that might help.

Edited By Stephen Grigg on 09/10/2012 20:26:49

[Codename-John]

Just type "spitfire cockpit" into Google and click on images, and literally thousands will appear before your very eyes, like this one

[Bucksboy]

• What centre of gravity do you use? Is it as recommended by Tony?

Thanks, mines nearing its first flight soon

[Bucksboy]

Mine flew today, she's sporting an OS 81 Alpha 4 stroke and weighs 9.5 lbs all up but dry. She's got the E Flite retracts as they are so simple to use. I dead sticked the first flight and ripped off the radiator off the bottom.

She flew very nicely without the flaps, they must be slightly out of synch as hen I deployed them, up high, she went slightly to the right. Its gone on the list of things to sort out. In all, I was very pleased, she flew rerally nicely and looked great.

I painted her in Mk 1 colours with black and white underneath, the colour scheme really stood out in the winter sun. Still got some more pieces to add, exhausts, aerial etc.

[GrahamC]

That looks fantastic! Sorry I missed your question about the CofG. Looks like it all went OK anyway!

[Mathew Brooks]

hi guys.

i have just bought the plans for tony's 62" spitfire and i have a question. i see in this blog that hobby zone retracts are used.... can anyone tell me which ones they are so i can order me a pair...

Just trying to get a list of all the parts needed before i undertake the build

Thanks

Mat

[GrahamC]

Hi Mathew. The retracts in mine were from hobbyking.

I used these along with Ripmax spare part oleos here

[GrahamC]

Just a few more thoughts Mathew if you are planning a build....

1] If you can get the undercarriage forwards a bit do. If you are flying from grass a cm or so would make all the difference. worth considering especially if you are cutting your own ribs. [I havn't gone back to the plan to see if this is possible]

2] An ASP 61 isn't enough. Mine flys well, but doesn't have what I would call "authority.' It has enough to loop with a bit of a run up, but not enough power to be able to really throw it about. I'm actually thinking about some surgery to electrify mine. The right prop is absolutely critical becasue the power is marginal. Mine flies best with an APC 12x6.

3] The flaps were extra work, but worth it. They do slow things down for landing, and look great.

[Concorde Speedbird]

Have you considered an ASP70? I think it is the next crank case size up, but some moderate changes should have it fit in well enough.

CS

[GrahamC]

I'm not 100% sure yet, but (oh dear CS won't approve) I'm seriously thinking about electrification.

The more electrics I have, and the more batteries I have, the more it makes sense to change the fleet over. I've no interest in igniting the debate again, but now I've invested in a leisure battery, I can take my planes to the field and fly all day, recharging as I go.

The puppeteer has really sealed the deal for me. I've got a superbly engineered motor that cost me £35, an ESC that cost less than £20 and a battery at just over £20, so for £75 I'm in the air without cutting corners, and in the puppeteer's case 15 minute flights really are a possibility.

Looking at the Spitfire, I'd be looking to spend about the same, and I would cover some of the cost by selling on the ASP 61. Fuel damages the airframe more than anything else too.

And... I won't have an exhaust hanging out and spoiling the lines.

So watch this space! I have the conversion planned in my head and if I go for it, I will post a update to this build blog.

[Concorde Speedbird]

No, he won't.

I don't believe that IC is the best and everyone should use it in everything powerrr! That is wrong, electric is the only option for some and in some models is superior, such as micros or indoor flyers.

However, I do believe that the engines are a brilliant part of our hobby (as is electric) and that it gives something like a warbird the character that the full size possesses.

Some examples. A Spitfire with an engine, and this brilliant Mustang. Look at that starting, easy! Also watch your earlier video. And then there is this. Look, with electric the undercarriage collapses!

Electric may seem cheaper in the short term. That ASP 61 if treated correctly (as I am sure you do) will last 10-20 years, maybe longer than that (our 70 has). The lipos will not last that long. If your fuel/oil is damaging the airframe then something is up, since the runway is more damaging to my aeroplanes!

If I were to ask you anything it would be to wait on the Spitfire, and watch mine come into fruition. It won't be nearly as good as yours, but hopefully I can show that engines have a good place on the front of the warbird, or anything at that. I'll do a build log just for that, even though I don't really want to. I do think that if you convert the whole fleet to electric (which would probably make me cry!) you would not get the most out of the hobby.

If you want to ask questions then please PM me, and for everyone else this is not an IC is the best post and definitely not a kick-start into the third world war.

CS

[Craig Ward]

To say lipos won't last 10-20 years is not a fair comparison. You're trying to compare the life span of an ic motor to a battery! The battery is the fuel, and dollar for dollar you get more flights per battery than you do for a gallon of fuel. Also, in my opinion, electric is better for scale. Less vibration to shake details loose, doesn't have to be built like a tank to withstand said virations. Also, there is no way in the world that a little 2 stroke, or 4 stroke engine sounds anything like the Merlin engines, not even close. There are hundreds of very, large, powerful models being powered by electric. You can't beat an electric motor for pure torque either.

[Concorde Speedbird]

Does a Merlin sound like a Dentist drill though? The fact is full size warbirds have four stroke IC engines, so some spinning magnets or speakers on board isn't the same. Those details will be shaken off by landing and take off anyway, and the point about engine longevity is showing that they are good value for money.

But this is exactly what I and Graham do not want, a debate, so if you want to query my reasoning then please PM me instead and keep the thread on topic.

CS

[Craig Ward]

If you read your post before mine, you will see that you indeed started the debate by inferring how superior the over revving ic engines were over electric. This hobby does not need anybody claiming how much better their power source is over another. And no, the details aren't shaken off by landing and taking off.

[Concorde Speedbird]

That's the tip of the iceberg now, decision made.

CS

[GrahamC]

Finally I've started work electrifying my Spitfire. I picked up a 5050 brushless motor at the NATS last year [2013] and with a pile of threaded rod, washers and nuts very kindly provided by my neighbour who just happens to sell such things, I've managed to extract the old engine mount, drill new holes in the fire wall and begin mounting the motor.

Studding is M4. I did wonder if I should consider M5, but having begun work, its clear that the M4 nuts are tight enough to the can of the motor, and anything larger would be impossible.

A little carving was necessary to get the cowl to fit around the motor. My current plan is to remove the bottom of the cowl and replace it with a removable fibreglass battery hatch. I plan to cut an aperture through the fire wall to carry something like a 6 cell 3000mah battery as far forwards as possible. I'm hoping that with the battery in place very little nose weight will be needed!

After an hour or so's fiddling. its beginning to get there! I want a little down thrust, because I always felt the model need it.... so not there yet!

[GrahamC]

Just an update to say that I finally re-maidened the Spitfire today with electric power for the first time, and it is so much better. Plenty of power on a 14x7 prop on a 6 cell 3300mah and a comfortable 7 minute flight with a few minutes to spare in the event of a necessary go around. With a flight battery attached to the motor studding and the flight battery passing through the fire wall hardly any lead was necessary. I just ned to come up with a way to get some air flow over the ESC. A few photos to follow when I get the chance

[Andrew767]

Congrats Graham......glad it went well.

Andrew

[Martian]

well done Graham

[Danny Fenton]

Looks great Graham, and well done on the maiden

Can I ask for a picture of the battery installation?

Cheers

Danny

[Malcolm Denniss]

Hi Graham,

I have been slowly building a Tony Nijhaus 62" Spitfire for a couple of years and have followed your variations for flaps and have a couple of questions.

How did you mount the air scoops under the wings as they would seem to cover the flap servo "doors". re they removable to be able to access the servo if necessary?

Also I am interested to learn how you constructed the cowl to be able to install & access the engine (Glow Version). I have split the cowl horizontally and then screwed together also made a separate back plate attached the cowl halves and then screwed to firewall by accessing through the prop hole at the front (very tricky to get at). I am still not too happy with this method and would consider a remake if you have better process.

By the way I am a Brit now living in Rhode Island USA and it is difficult to get good kits for RAF planes here hence the TN build plan.

Regards,

MalcolmD