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Mam'selle.......


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Well back to the Mam'selle.....
 
It seemed to take as long to work out how to add a rudder and elevator as the rest of the build combined, but it is done now.
 
 


Next up is the radio and engine, then I can finish of the stringers and a bit of fus sheeting....

Oh and yes a bit of the fus will be removed to allow some down elevator

Cheers
Danny
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excellent Mal, looks great can i ask what you have done under the tailplane, between the last bulkhead and the tip of the fus. nothing on the plan thats explains whether the stringers continue rearwards.
cheers
Danny
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Hi Danny,
thanks for the compliment.What I have done with the stringers on my model is to continue them right to the tailpost,they will all fit in,tho' it is a bit tight,but nothing to worry about.I notice you say you are going to trim the fuselage to allow a bit of down elevator.I have done mine slightly differently in that I have used a two-piece elevator,joined with a torque rod (posh name for a bit of wire),also I've glued the tail surfaces to the fuselage.Incidently,I meant to mention the other day that 'Litespan' does look like coloured Modelspan tissue,but only certain colours appear translucent.I think the colours are red,orange,yellow.I think all the other colours appear as 'solid' colours,also while it does shrink with heat,it shrinks nowhere near as much as Solarfilm or similar colours.Hope this is of some help to you,,,,,,,,,,,,,,cheers,Mal.
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hi Mal thats just what I needed to know. I will do something likewise. I thought about a joiner from a bamboo skewer, but thought I was over complicating things. Can still change things in line with what you have done.
Cheers
Danny
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I have split the elevator and added a section of bamboo, with hinesight Mal's idea of using piano wire would have been better as its easier to hide once attached it being much thinner, ah well

Mal, am I right in assuming you have attached the tailplane etc already, and are going to cover them in situ? Doesn't that make it awkward?

Cheers
Danny
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Posted by Danny Fenton on 20/11/2011 23:22:44:
 

Mal, am I right in assuming you have attached the tailplane etc already, and are going to cover them in situ? Doesn't that make it awkward?

Cheers
Danny
Hi Danny,
yes, you're quite right,I did attach the tailsurfaces before covering the model,and it did indeed make it a little awkward to cover.It did make it a bit easier to fair the fin into the fuselage,so it's a bit of a 'swings and roundabouts' situation.I think either way is correct,or possibly incorrect..................cheers,Mal.
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How is the model coming along Danny?
 
I was just looking at some of your earlier pictures & I was wondering how you were going to fit the engine? Does that beautifully built up cowl come off so you can get at those beech engine bearers to drill 'em?
 
Remember you must use either 6 or 8 BA bolts to hold a diesel in place.....also you can gain points if the holes through the bearer are not quite square....gain extra points if you can get one hole at 95 degrees & the other at 87 degrees .
 
It is also essential that you solder a short piece of piano wire across the bolt heads to stop them turning as you tighten the nuts. Again extra points can be awarded if the solder joint fails once the bolts are built in & inaccessable.....
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Posted by Steve Hargreaves on 22/11/2011 09:01:12:

It is also essential that you solder a short piece of piano wire across the bolt heads to stop them turning as you tighten the nuts. Again extra points can be awarded if the solder joint fails once the bolts are built in & inaccessable.....
Aaaah......memories.....
 
tim
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Hi Guys, well not much done I am afraid. I am making a bit of a meal over the pushrods and will post some pics when i am happy with what I am doing. Should be simple, but can't quite get the routing right
 



Yes the cowl splits, to allow access. You don't mention Steve whether points will be lost if I decide to use Nylocs, and metric threaded machine screws. Will the traditionalists busy themeselves rolling up their copies of Keil Kraft catalogues, preparing to give me a good thrashing
 
I am making a jig with random angles and spacing to drill the motor mounts
 
Cheers
Danny

 
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Ah...I can already hear the dull thwack of oil soaked handbook on errant aeromodeller...
 
Nylocs are right out I'm afraid......what you should do is tighten the nuts until just before they strip & then wind 5A fusewire around the exposed thread above the nut.....this wire should then be heated with a large soldering iron (which must have been heated on a gas stove...) & lots of solder melted over the job. When it starts to drip off the bolt you probably have enough on there. Make sure you use 60/40 leaded solder too....none of this 'ere new fangled lead free stuff.
 
Repeat for the other 3 bolts. You should now have a large lump of solder on each of the exposed threads. You must ensure however that only the solidified flux is actually securing the fuse wire to the thread.....this will allow it to vibrate off at the first opportunity. With luck the thread will also strip at this point thus the engine will be loose when the model lands. (Note:- this is why having the bolts at slightly different angles is essential because you will have had to force the engine into place & this will hold it in when the threads fail...)
 
This will mean that a) you have to stop flying & go back to the workshop for repairs b) you will have to dig the stripped bolts out of the model (see note above about inaccessability) c) you will be able to moan about the quality of modern bolts & solder & how they....".....don't mek 'em like they used to that knaws....."
 
Hope this helps....
 
 
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Posted by Chris Bott on 22/11/2011 10:40:13:
Steve would we get extra points for using four different nuts?
Maybe mine will be mangled by the over use of unsuitable pliers too.
 
 

Different nuts?? What kind of a bodger are you Chris. This is vintage aeromodelling you know....these are miniature aircraft & should be treated as such.....

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Hi Danny,
I'm going to try and post a couple of pictures of my 'Mam'selle', hopefully they will come out ok.My camera isn't impressing me that much,I might even have to splash out on a better one.........(poor workman etc etc)....................here goes...................

picture ,obviously ,of the wing,showing effect of fuel-proofed 'litespan............
 
 

 

Hmmmmmmmm, worked that time,I'll post some of the engine and servo installation in a short while..........................Mal
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Right, let's see if I can post some more pics..............................
 
below is cowled engine,a Mills .75.......................
 

top cowl off, showing tinplate tank.............................

rest of cowl removed, rest of fuel tank....................

you can probably just about see the 4xaaa power supply attached to the lower engin bearer..............here's a better picture of it....................
 

and again............................................

hope that helps a little, I'll post some of the servo installation soon....................Mal
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