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Mam'selle.......


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Hi Chris,
you're quite correct,Litespan is said to be fuelproof,but we've found with both litespan and solartex they seem to get 'ingrained' with handling etc,and soon look grubby. Hey,but I suppose that would be an instant 'vintage' look.The fuselage in sprayed with 2-pack car enamel...................cheers,Mal
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Here's a couple of shots of the servo installation.The servos are mounted on a ply/balsa tray,together with the switch,and the r/x is fitted below the tray.I used wire snakes in plastic tube to couple the servos with the tail surfaces.....................
 


and don't forget,it won't fly without one of these...........................
 

 
.................................................cheers,Mal
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Posted by Steve Hargreaves on 22/11/2011 10:33:16:......what you should do is tighten the nuts until just before they strip .....
 
 
See? I was doing it all wrong. I used to tighten the nuts until just after they stripped, then back off one turn. A bit like finding the optimum number of turns on a rubber motor really....
 
Great building Mal - looks superb!
 
tim
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Posted by Steve Hargreaves on 22/11/2011 11:05:37:
In retrospect I think I might have been a little too hasty here......
 
I think different nuts could be allowed IF that was all you had in stock, it was late on a Saturday night & you were unable to bicycle to the model shop AND you had a competition on the Sunday......

Different nuts ? When we used to build whilst still a schoolboy (cue violins playing softly) different nuts would have been a luxury.We couldn't afford,or find 4 nuts and bolts,we used to use 2 set diagonally in the engine bearers (cue Monty Pythons 4 Yorkshiremen).If we didn't have a drill,we used to burn the holes in the beares with a red-hot piece of wire.................ahhh,the good old days.....................Mal

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Posted by mal brewer on 22/11/2011 13:42:16:
If we didn't have a drill,we used to burn the holes in the beares with a red-hot piece of wire................
 
Luxury....I could never afford to heat my wire red hot......I used to use a old rusty nail that I'd sharpened by rubbing it on the cobbles in our back yard.....
 
This could (& probably already has) get silly!!!
 
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A little more done:
 
 

That just about finishes the airframe, need to fit the engine, and get a much more streamlined look to the cowl, as per Mal's
Servos are in as you can just about see through the sides

Some more litespan and fresh Balsaloc arrived this morning, my Balsaloc was a solid lump in the jar when I went to find it

Cheers
Danny
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Lovely model Danny.
 
Just one point - don't you think using a jig to get the holes deliberatly out of true is going rather against the spirit of the thing? I mean I'd hate to see you "exposed" in the KK Review as a man that used a jig - imagine the shame. Just line it up by eye mate, you know it makes sense.
 
BEB
 
PS A little tip I've picked up over the years that might help - when you line up the drill by eye, try to get it really vertical - true 90 degrees. I find that invariably that's the secret that leads to the desired 95 degree (plus or minus 10 degrees) hole. I know, its a paradox isn't it! But it taken me a long time to learn how to do that and I pass it on to you free with my best wishes!
 
PPS A slightly dull drill helps as well.
 
PPPS I actually meant the bit about it being a lovely model!
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That's pretty Danny and very neat , seems such a shame to cover her.
Will be very interested to see how the covering goes on and what kind of temperature you use to tighten things up etc? isn't there 2 sides, one shiny and the other matt to that covering material?
 
 
It will soon be ready
 
Rich
 
 
 
 
 
 
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hi Rich, not sure which side to have showing yet, any others have any suggestions, pros cons etc?
 
It is a bit of a shame to cover it all up isnt it?
 
I spent a while searching the Frog Jupiter you are building, cant say I know it and could find no pics
 
Cheers
Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 26/11/2011 13:24:44

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looks lovely Rich, probably more popular once yours is seen
Thanks Chris, I was drawn to the dull side out, I dare say any proofer will make it glossy?
 
will try the film this evening I get some time. Cheers Danny
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d'you guys all know each other?
Rob here-I'm newto all thisblog-message stuff. But i did build a mamselle afew years back.. as per rcme plan with rud&elev. I covered the fus and tail in tissue as recomended and fitted a Magnum 10. i loved it but the fuel proofing couldnt take it.ive rebuilt it in a redesigned way -less boat shaped and more Cub like. same original wing though-dont abandon the rubber bands method for bolts (if you fly/land like me) im going to follow the progress here if thats ok Rob
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Hi Rob, yes we are like your big virtual model club We have met each other from time to time at events, but many of us are friends on here but have never met in person.
I hope the banter doesn't put you off joining in, I really mean that. I for one, am always learning new things from people, one of the things I enjoy - learning. Just wish my brain was into remembering, ah well.

I think the free plan of the Mam'selle, a few years back, was a little larger at 50 + inches But still those lovely lines will show through.

Just had a first bash at using light span, its lovely stuff, a bit fiddly to apply as you have pre coat the airframe with Balsaloc and let it dry. You also have to be a little more careful ensuring there are no wrinkles from the get-go, as it doesn't shrink as much as say Solartex.

I will post some pictures later, have been using a tripod, timer and clean background so the pictures should be better (Trying to follow Tim's lead, but failing dismally, got a spare white Brolly Tim? CDO indeed )

Cheers
Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 26/11/2011 21:48:32

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Many of you have used Litespan already so sorry if this is not new, but there may be a few like me that have never encountered the stuff before.
Here is a quick blow by blow of my covering the Mam'selle fin:
 
Iron set to 100 degs
 
The items needed, especially balsaloc and the small piece of sponge. It has to be green sponge because my OCD objects to sponges of any other color, unless its a Tuesday then they can be blue.
 
Apply balsaloc sparingly with the sponge, I have been informed that if you use a brush you need to be careful that the brush strokes are thoroughly brushed away, or they will show through.
 
I tacked one side, then opposite, then the top then the bottom. Then in between, pretty straightforward really. You do need to make sure there are no wrinkles.
 
The liteSpan goes around compound curves fairly well without stretching.
 
The finished side (unshrunk)
 
The other side to show the overlaps and the darts cut in the covering around the perimeter.
The other side was then Balsaloc'd around the overlaps, and the covering affixed in the same manner.

Once firmly attached, the Iron was wound up to 125 degrees and the centre areas shrunk. Be careful not to let the iron wander over the edges or it will lift them.
 
The finished result looks just fine, not quite as nice as Tissue and dope, but very similar....
 
Cheers
Danny

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