Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Posted by Danny Fenton on 30/11/2011 12:03:16: Any suggestions on achieving the old soaked look other than by soaking in oil Do you mean you or the model.... perhaps i could use the airbrush to weather it Fear not Danny....the PAW will do all the "weathering" you need.....probably the first time you run it Posted by Danny Fenton on 30/11/2011 12:03:16: Mal, I have deliberately left the cowl to cyclinder fit a bit larger than i would normally to allow a screwdriver blade in between. In fact I could have made it smaller as the forceps easily fit Excellent excuse there Danny...I must remember that one next time I cut a cowl a bit wide.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 Its not an excuse..... honest it was planned like that Mmmm I suppose I could airbrush the launching arm of my cardigan in thinned castor oil But as you say the monster .8 will do that fairly rapidly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Danny, are you going to leave the cowl as it is in the pics? Because the motor looks pretty tightly cowled to me...up to & including around the exhaust ports.....are you hoping to direct the exhaust out through the bottom of the cowl? If so have you allowed enough fresh airflow into the cowl to feed the carb? Engines don't run well on exhaust fumes!!! Also & possibly most important you will probably need access to carb & exhaust ports for that all important "direct prime".....(& no I'm not just saying that so I can enjoy a giggle at your expense when it kicks back at you...!!!). Diesels do like quite a rich start in my experience..... By the way you do know that electric staters are forbidden on a diesel don't you....if you use one there is a good chance you will be drummed out of the BMFA....your 'A' & 'B' certs will be ripped up in front of you & you'll be restricted to RC Cars.....or even (whisper it) RC boats!!!!.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 Hi Steve, I take what you are saying re the airflow, I was assuming that Mal and the designers had that covered? Mal's Mamselle looks even tighter cowled than mine, cos he is a proper modeller not like this diesel part timer There is a big hole in the front of the cowl for air to get in, and I think I read somewhere that cooling air should be passed as close as possible to the surface of the cylinder head fins for it to work best. So a smallish gap should be good? But I am open to suggestions? As for priming my intention was to create combustion with the cowl removed, then attach cowl, hopefully avoiding sticking finger in the prop in the process I don't like electric starters, and have never used them. I feel they put undue load on the thrust bearings. The MkI finger will be pressed into service. I used to race cars and have an RC racing yacht.....does that mean what I fear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mal brewer Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Hi Danny, funny enough,I was having the same thoughts about your cowl as steve is.You say mine is tighter cowled than yours,but the front of my cowl appears to be narrower than yours,and the Mills .75,being a long-stroke engine,has a lot more of the cylinder finning exposed to the airflow,as it protrudes from the cowling a lot more than your paw.It might be an idea to 'thin down' the sides of the cowl interior in the vicinity of the cylinder to allow a less restrictive passage of air around the cylinder............................................Mal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Posted by Danny Fenton on 30/11/2011 13:00:25: Hi Steve, I take what you are saying re the airflow, I was assuming that Mal and the designers had that covered? Mal's Mamselle looks even tighter cowled than mine, cos he is a proper modeller not like this diesel part timer There is a big hole in the front of the cowl for air to get in, and I think I read somewhere that cooling air should be passed as close as possible to the surface of the cylinder head fins for it to work best. So a smallish gap should be good? But I am open to suggestions? I don't think cooling will be a problem per se....as long as you have some airflow around the fins I reckon you will be OK & the mighty PAW will see to the airflow..... My concern was that the cowl seems close to the exhaust ports but as you can get a set of antique forceps in there then I might be worrying un-necessarily.... I'm guessing that with the cowl off a good prime should be pretty easy. Bear in mind that with this arrangement your cowl is really going to get a good soaking in oil, which may not be a bad thing as it will likely keep the oil of the rest of the model (Ha Ha!! As if!!!). Remember to double & triple fuel proof all around the engine. Be a shame if it fell apart due to oil getting in there. As for priming my intention was to create combustion with the cowl removed, then attach cowl, hopefully avoiding sticking finger in the prop in the process I think this is an excellent idea as the potential for mirth has just increased dramatically.... When the engine starts (on full throttle remember) the noise & the smoke & the excitement can cause a mild feeling of hysteria & rising panic as you try to get the cowl replaced, Tx in the right hand & the model held aloft for launch.... You now have the potential to replace the Tx, launch the cowl & then try & control it with the model..........great fun.... I don't like electric starters, and have never used them. I feel they put undue load on the thrust bearings. The MkI finger will be pressed into service. I thought your big Hurri had a Sullivan starter up front...or am I mistaken....? I used to race cars and have an RC racing yacht.....does that mean what I fear Best keep that bit quiet then.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 I am surprised they let us join these forums Steve........ Okay all you "suck-squeeze-bang-blow" experts, how do I clean a metal diesel tank? I can blow in the three pipes, without resorting to a purple demeanor, so that seems promising. But should I worry about any residue?? CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 They are just jealous because the voices only speak to me....... Rember the PAW is a two stroke so its "sucksqueeze-bangblow..... Now as I recall these tanks were gifted to you by Big Bandit Chris.....h'mmm best get the rubber gloves out then...who knows what might have happened to them previously!!! I certainly think they will need a good clean out inside......personally I would get some IPA in there & give it a really good shake & leave it for a while. Then empty it out & repeat until the fluid coming out is clean.... Perhaps give the outsides a good polish with Autosol too so you can pretend you've only just "made" them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 IPA isn't that a beer? ahh right thx for the correction on the sucking and blowing Anyway does the fuel tank in this position send ripples of laughter amongst the Keil Kraft page turners? And can I secretly epoxy it in once the model is ready to escape gravities shackles? CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Well it should really be fastened in with elastic bands....these can then snap when they get fuel soaked & allow the tank to move thus giving you more practice at unexpected deadsticks. I would avoid epoxy-ing it in place....if you do, one of two things will happen.....1) it will leak & you won't be able to remove it because of the epoxy. 2) It won't leak & the epoxy joint will fail (see above) I wonder about soldering a small "L" bracket to the top & bottom of the tank & then using two of your 9BA screws though the bracket & through the bearer (in the same plane as the engine bolts) to hold it in place..... Remember the effect of the high "g" forces which the Mam'selle is capable of excerting on this large quantity of fuel...it really should be mounted securely.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Just another thought as well....the tank looks like a 7.5 or 10cc "Team Race" tank from ye olde control lyne days....as such the feed pipe will continue to the bottom right hand corner of the tank, as seen from behind. This is because in a control liner the fuel is thrown outward by centripetal effect & backwards by the forward motion. So in your installation the engine will run for longer in a gentle left hand turn than it will in a right hand turn because all the fuel will run towards the pick up in a L/H turn & away from it in a R/H turn...... Unless you make them high "g" turns in which case it will be the opposite.... Or something.... I think....Edited By Steve Hargreaves on 30/11/2011 15:27:52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Just unsolder the tank to get inside to clean it, they come apart quite easily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 Thanks Steve, I will remember to always fly won-wing-low, and er...... thanks Chris I think there might be tears if i take a soldering iron anywhere near that lovely tank you volunteering to stitch it back together again afterwards?CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Steve re:- 9 BA set screws (bolts to the uninitiated) for the "L" brackets . I have never come across any BUT I'm pretty sure that a 10 BA can be forced on ,or that an 8BA will fit with loads of superglue &/or epoxy or any kind of gunge or even a different foreign nut will make a substantial firm solution . Regarding rubber bands --You really need the type that postmen scatter along the street 'cos they deteriorate quickest on exposure to UV light . Proper modern white ones will last far too long and are a modern invention anyway so they are a definite no no . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Posted by Danny Fenton on 30/11/2011 15:44:21: Thanks Steve, I will remember to always fly won-wing-low, and er...... thanks Chris I think there might be tears if i take a soldering iron anywhere near that lovely tank you volunteering to stitch it back together again afterwards?CheersDanny No, you'll notice I only said it was easy to take apart... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 Talking about rubber bands, you started it. I bought some "proper" ones from SLEC and they have crumbled quicker than the red ones postie uses. Where can I get "real" rubber bands, or would a true "officianado" make there own rubber bands Myron I have 9BA machine screws, well the diameter is the equivalent to 9BA M2 CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Posted by Danny Fenton on 30/11/2011 15:55:25: Talking about rubber bands, you started it. I bought some "proper" ones from SLEC and they have crumbled quicker than the red ones postie uses. Where can I get "real" rubber bands, or would a true "officianado" make there own rubber bands Odd..I find that the SLEC bands are good....you are keeping them out of sunlight & well dusted with french chalk aren't you.....that "medicated" talcum powder you use for your other "issues" isn't good on rubber bands you know.... Of course you could (& probably should) make your own bands from old bicycle inner tubes.....it must be from a Sturmey-Archer 3 speed bike however.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 Lol yes out of sunlight, still in their bag in fact, tucked up in a drawer. Perhaps a batch that er had been on display somewhere. I must confess to not dusting with french chalk though will try and remember to do tha. I am not cannibilising a "chopper" for its inner tube, even more iconic than the Mam'selle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Steve Who wants a 26" or 3" long rubber band these days depending how you cut it with your vintage knife or scissors? Not only that,the modern ones are made of synthetic stuff --Another No-No.I have used diagonally cut pieces for holding up my exhaust system on my camper van .Very good too ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Myron, this is why the inner tube must come from a Sturmey-Archer equipped bike....it is well known that these use finest Malaysian latex for their inner tubes....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Steve Are you sure you're not thinking of cheap imports of another product that some peeps use at weekends apart from flying .Ooh 'er We are seriously getting off thread now aren't we all ! Edited By Myron Beaumont on 30/11/2011 17:24:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 We do seem to be wandering, in a free flight manner, off the subject..... Rest of the fus is now covered, just the top of the cowl to do later. I will post pics then CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Posted by Danny Fenton on 30/11/2011 15:04:33: IPA isn't that a beer? ahh right thx for the correction on the sucking and blowing Anyway does the fuel tank in this position send ripples of laughter amongst the Keil Kraft page turners? And can I secretly epoxy it in once the model is ready to escape gravities shackles? CheersDanny Danny, You've already earned your wings, which makes you immune from the KK hand book Wielding Hordes of Aging Modelers (KK'WHAM). I'm mightily impressed. You have doped the inside of the underside drip ole haven't you . Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 Hi Chris, do you approve of the tanks new home I haven't done the fuel proofing yet, there is a hole in the bottom of the cowl, I think I will soak it in CA then Aerokote. Do you think that should do it? I have finished the covering, and am a little dissapointed that the wings that were lovely and taught have relaxed and some small wrinkles have appeared. I think I will iron them away and then give a coat of 50/50 Butyrate dope, its supposed to be Diesel fuel proof. The weights are interesting. At the moment if you add everything up you get 10.2 Oz, plus whatever the wheels work out at, and the fuel proofing and some trim paint. That includes Rx, servos, batts, micro switch, fuel tank, tubing etc etc.The prototype came in at 14.5 oz so I think I am on track. CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Very nice Danny BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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