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Mam'selle.......


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Myron,
PAW do make engines with R/C carbs.
I have such items on a 1.49,. 2,49, 19D and a much larger engine which I was given but don't know its capacity.
All throttle well with the very simple carburettor, but I have found that sometimes wear occurs, possibly caused by vibration, which makes the carburettor leak some air making it impossible to stop the motor by closing the throttle. Sufficient air bleeds past the worn barrel to allow the engine to keep running until the tank runs dry. I've had this happen with a couple of 2.49 carburettors and had to make replacement barrels after boring out the carb body to remove the ovality.created by the wear.
OS carburettors work well with PAW engines, and I have used an Enya one from an 09 on a PAW 1.49 as well as using a PAW carb on an ED Super Fury of 1.5 cc capacity..
Malcolm
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we may have to talk to young Ashers about that feature, i could suggest a quick whiff of D1000 just before pressing play may work to creat that all imoortant ambieance, if you want the total affect thwack your finger with a ruler, in time to my flicking
 

Edited By Danny Fenton on 04/12/2011 16:32:20

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slightly dissapointed that I was unable to be online at the end of the EBay auction on the prop, and was pathetically outbid by pennies. If I were a cynical person i might think it was because i posted the picture on the forum. good job I didn't post a pic of the original free flight wheels nib. I won those. so need to keep looking for a nylon prop. Cheers Danny
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Posted by Danny Fenton on 02/12/2011 10:23:16:

The secret to neat building.....
stick "A" to "B" as accurately as you can, then pray C fits......

Cheers
Danny
 
This would be in the same way that Hendricks used to just play G, C, F# you mean......yeah right!!!
 
Excellent little video Danny......tell me, did you warm the PAW up first or was this a "time lapse" video perchance....? After all, firing up a diesel in just over a minute.....truly excellent....
 
I was very impressed by the diesel flick....I even think you might have got it to go over compression twice with a single flick on occasion.... The careful adjustment of the needle.....the judicious tweak of the compression lever....the artful way the arm was held to keep the sleeve out of the exhaust.......truly a masterclass in diesely-ness...
 
The lack of a chicken finger was impressive too & points to an unexpected level of confidence & a propellor with a well sanded trailing edge.....
 
I was slightly disturbed by the way you stopped the engine though.....the true dieselist would back the compression screw right out until the engine stopped.....this would mean you have to reset the compression from scratch every time you run the engine thus giving you lots of practice at this sacred ritual....
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Danny,
 
I cold almost smell the castor oil! Really took me back to my mis-spent youth!
 
What we really need now is the unedited 20 minute video, including the out-takes where the prop kicks back and takes a goodly chunk out of your finger. Nothing like it on a freezing cold morning...
 
tim
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Guys guys guys. Would I play visual tricks like that? Its like saying the cover photo on our RCM&E is touched up, and I am deeply hurt.....
Okay that was the second run. I thought....... this is going to take a while, and didn't start the camera rolling, the MIGHTY P.A.W started within a few flicks, I was fairly amazed myself.
But I didn't let it warm up, and stopped it fairly quickly. I turned the camera to record, and the second start is in its entirety, honest Even realising that as I choked the carb, bubbles were coming up the fuel line so stuck some more fuel in.
I was flicking engines from the age of 7, and though I haven't for many years the nack doesn't seem to leave you I am pleased to say. The finger was not bitten at all in the making of the video, but a finger nail was slightly damaged, my own fault for not cutting the index nail short before i started.
I am sure you all know, the position of the prop compared to compression is the critical bit, hark at me sound like I klnow what I am talking about lolol
 
Contacted the EBay seller of the prop I missed out on, and he has three more 7 x 4 Kiel Kraft props So they are winging there way to me.
Hopefully that will keep the "wrong prop" brigade of my back

Cheers
Danny
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Come on Danny....we all know that the mag publishers airbrush the covers.....the smooth skin...the slim firm thighs......the fully rounded......oops hang on wrong mag....RCM&E you say.....cough...ahem....erm...
 
You bought all three props Danny.....? Blimey that should see you out....it is well known that they are nigh on indestructable.....they say that after the Nuclear Holocaust only cockroaches & nylon Keil Kraft props will survive.....do give it a good boiling though won't you.....the nylon dries out with age & becomes less flexible so a few minutes in a pan of boiling water & leaving to cool naturally will restore the bendy-ness.....
 
Don't do what a mate of mine did though many years ago....he let the pan boil dry & the prop melted on the bottom of his mums pan....... It was certainly an interesting shape after that.....more object d'art than propellor.....I'm sure Charles Saatchi would have bought it as a Salvador Dali masterpiece had he got to hear of it.....
 
I reckon you could go up to an 8x4 on that motor no problem. This would cut down the revs (& the noise) & increase the thrust for true hot doggin' prop hangin' action....
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I did wonder about the "pretend" non- adjustment of the compression screw that had obviously been previously set by someone who knew what they were doing.
Regarding the no. of props on the way .I think you'll need a lot more before long .Next time ,as already mentioned, get a dozen or so 8X4 s . These will last longer after arrivals on concrete and gradually become smaller . Balancing a prop with ragged tips is another skill you might want practice at .Don't worry about the red tipped versions as they won't last long enough to be visible and will only cost more at the rate you will obliterate them and engine mounts,needle valves ,spray bars, glue and fuel proofer ,prop nuts, wings ,false index finger nails , etc etc
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Steve calm down.....however my first thought was who could be on the cover of RCM&E with smooth skin and er... firm thighs... surely not young Ashers Then i realised where you were going and wondered how long the mods would take to sort you out
 
Prop hanging Mam'selle are you mad! Can you imagine the pumelling from all those Veron and Kiel Kraft handbooks. In fact you may even get beaten with an unbuilt Veron Tomtit still in the box!
 
I will have a go at boiling the props I got three in case somebody else needed one, see how thoughtful I am? Might mount one on a plinth and make a trophy out of it for the Greenacres bash, not sure what it would be for though, perhaps all the builders vote for their choice of model?
 
Cheers
Danny
 
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Posted by Danny Fenton on 05/12/2011 10:42:58:
You mean I have the wrong props on their way? Now you tell me

Cheers
Danny
 
Hi Danny,
what you really need is a Keil Kraft 'truflex' prop, which seemed to be made from a reddish-brown type of soft plastic,or hard rubber composition.You could almost tie one into a knot they were so flexible,I don't know what kind of shapes they assumed when bolted onto the front of a 'hot' diesel,such as an Amco 3.5cc.They would even distort if the prop-nut was overtightened,but we loved them because they were unbreakable............................Mal
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Posted by Danny Fenton on 05/12/2011 11:14:15:
 
Prop hanging Mam'selle are you mad! Can you imagine the pumelling from all those Veron and Kiel Kraft handbooks. In fact you may even get beaten with an unbuilt Veron Tomtit still in the box!
 
I will have a go at boiling the props I got three in case somebody else needed one, see how thoughtful I am? Might mount one on a plinth and make a trophy out of it for the Greenacres bash, not sure what it would be for though, perhaps all the builders vote for their choice of model?
 
Cheers
Danny
 
 
Have you never flown single channel rudder only Danny......??
 
Forsooth on a windy day there was much prop hanging going on as your model got into a series of swoops & dives, getting ever steeper as the model disappeared downwind & you wished someone would get around to inventing multi channel radio so we could at least have an elevator control.
 
The trick was to try & stop the ballooning zooms & vertical climbs by hitting the rudder just as the model started to climb back up to the vertical to kill the zoom.....inevitably just as you'd got the model back on track ready to crawl back into the prevailing wind the engine would run out of fuel & you be desparately trying to see when the model came down & had it missed Mr Cholmondeley-Warners greenhouse this time....
 
I like the idea of a mounted Keil Kraft prop as a trophy......for added authenticity it would need appropriate blood stains plus ragged tips & a scuffed front surface where it had interfaced with terra firma......but it would look great mounted on a Balsa wood plinth which showed tide marks from brushed sanding sealer. The prop should be mounted to a paxolin mount (whose edges are still a bit rough from the hacksaw used to cut it) & held in place with a 2BA screw whose slotted head shows evidence of an ill fitting screwdriver......the retaining nut could be "locked" to the 2BA screw with 5A fusewire & "soldered" in place......
 
Lovely.....I would be proud to have such a momento on my mantlepiece......
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LOLOL Steve you are definitely the one to make the trophy!! Very funny indeed
Hi Mal, I have no recollection of those, a great deal of my control line modelling was done in the States with McCoy and Fox Glow engines. The props were nearly always the TopFlite ones Steve has shown. I only dabbled briefly with diesels when I came back to the UK.
Steve I built a Veron Tigermoth, that was single channel, but never flew it. Never had the nerve. Ran it a lot, much to the annoyance of the neighbours.......The swooping and diving I have seen on videos isn't really prop hanging but stalling I thought you were referring to sustained prop hanging......

Cheers
Danny
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Hi Danny, Steve, these are what you want. 7 x 4 and 7 x 6 KK props or top flight, with the KK props the flashing on the prop tips has to be left on. It's razor sharp and is guaranteed to lacerate the hardest skin / knuckles, these have earned there place in history as the best knuckle biters around .
 

Cheers,
 
Chris.
 
 
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Excellent Chris, excellent.....truly they are icons of the age......the oil stained mounting hole.....the slightly ragged tips.....the ground in mud..... & do my eyes deceive me or has the mounting hole in the middle Keil Kraft prop been drilled slightly off centre?
 
Wonderful stuff.......
 
I am slightly concerned by the lack of blood stains however..... this does hint at the possible use of a chicken stick or a finger stall & would obviously reduce their intrinsic value to the keen aeromodelling archaeologist......
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Chris
Nice to see the outcomes of "one careful owner from new " .You must be very proud of them!
Normally there are slivers of leading edges missing and deep scraches on the front of the blades from impacts on arrival &/ or misuse of the more modern use of a hard rough chicken stick in the 80's after the introduction of Fairy liquid which made everyones skin too soft to properly flick props and the price of first aid kits rose sharply even though the plasters that once were fuel proof now lasted only one fick.(long live good old masking tape and superglue). Re- boiling props like those will obviously remove the various genuine stains accumulated so diligently but thus reducing their appeal and authenticity to the true modeller of old .I see the blood stains have already been removed.Shame .
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