ARTF Riot chat thread

[Chuck Plains]

Hi Ken,

Hmm, that 'stuttering' is called cogging. Click on this thread on The Toyz Forums for explanations. (basically it's info for RC cars ,but you can get some idea fron it) It indicates some kind of imbalance between the ESC and the motor.Unfortunately the Riot ESC has no setting data available, I already checked, and have sent mine back to Century for checking, although that was for a different issue.

Oh yes, you could try swapping two of the motor wires around. Apparently it doesn't actually matter which of the three is connected to which, so it's something to try anyway.

I replaced my axles with 4mm bolts and drilled out the wheels to match. (try to keep the drill straight, I didn't succeed too well! )

Edited By Chuck Plains on 05/02/2013 00:07:44

Edited By Chuck Plains on 05/02/2013 00:09:36

Edited By Chuck Plains on 05/02/2013 00:11:48

[Twister]

Hi Ken

I had the same issue and found the bearing had gone and was snagging on a magnet which was proud of the others.Century replaced no problem.

[PaulC]

Hello All,

I am now the happy owner of a Riot, having just completed the build which was not too stresfull considering Im a complete novice ( prop assembly was different to the manual so a visit back to model shop was necessary).

Problem is that I have 2 new 2200 batteries, an overlander and a Gens ace both of which are too big - deep for the battery box when velcro is used. Should I cut the battery box to enlargen - dont really want to, or find slimmer batteries - I think that these are about as slim as 2200s come ?

Thanks for any help.

Paul

 

Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 05/04/2013 07:05:29

[Codename-John]

If theyre a snugish fit without velcro then dont bother with it, wot4 foam e`s etc dont need it and theyre more or less the same

Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 05/04/2013 07:05:44

[Steven Buckingham]

Hi Paul

I'm helping a novice at our club with a Riot, he has a pair of Multiplex 2200 which fit fine (but are not cheap), my Turnigy's are way to fat and my Overlander just squeezes in. If it were mine I'd set to with a scalpel but I understand your reluctance and I'd recommend talking to folk in your club before doing anything drastic.

For alternative batteries try

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=240&LiPoConfig=3&sortlist=&CatSortOrder=desc

Or

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/cell-lipo-battery-c-1_114.html

Check the dimensions and you should find something that will fit.

I've got to admit I was surprised how slim the battery bay is on the Riot, a small flaw in an otherwise great plane!

Good luck

Steve

Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 05/04/2013 07:06:01

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Posts moved to existing thread.

[Graham Day]

Hi PaulC,

Great choice of plane!! I love my Riot (except for the name!!)

I cut the bottom out of the battery box on my Riot some months ago. This exposes a ply frame to which velcro could be attached. It also exposes a screw which could, perhaps damage the battery. I laid velco and bubble-wrap over this. It would be better to glue a small piece of light ply over the screw.

Early on I replaced the wheel bolts with stronger items, M3 if I remember correctly. I also replaced the prop with an APC 12x6. And ran extension leads from the LED connectors.

Other mods you may wish to try as you progress include removing the metal block from the front of the battery box, (check the CoG afterwards, though I found this had neglible effect). Increasing the throws to the control surfaces as far as poss. I run mine on a mixture of 3S and 4S batteries, but if you do this, check the current doesnt exceed the ESC rating.

Hope this helps!

Graham

[Joe Beavis]

The original battery box is 150 by 50 by 25, and will JUST take a Turnigy 4S 3300. Cutting the bottom out of the box seems a good idea.

I have had two fuselages, both came with wavy wire pushrods for rudder and elevator that were far too stiff and had to be changed.

I put a Turnigy 3548/4 on mine, which will take it vertically, though it is as noisy as an i.c.

Welding the u/c legs together is a good idea.

The amount of 'dihedral' at the bottom of a flat-out dive makes the eyes water, though the wings haven't broken yet.

I put dowels through the fuse and attach the wings with bands - there is nothing like a bit of compliance when the going gets tough. ( the wing-joiners are pemanently taped on)

I took out the seventy-odd gms of nose weight, and it still balanced alright

It is quite a big model for the money, and though not exciting I find it goes in the car most times.

[PaulC]

Hello All,

Many thanks for your help, shall probably cut out battery box at a later date, hoping to get her maidened next Sat. Oh oH.

Paul

[Chuck Plains]

I bought 3 Power Tech 2250mah Lipos, supplied by Century, from my LMS along with the Riot and they are an easy fit in the battery box, with a bit of space at either end. So you can shift the pack fore or aft and add a piece of foasm to keep it from sliding around. Some of the newer Lipos are getting pretty slim, but they aren't cheap.

My Power Tech 2250 packs are 25mmx35mmx105mm

Thunder power's Pro Lite.

TP2100-3SPP25

2100mAh 3-Cell/3S 11.1V

5C

25C

50C

10.5A

52.5A

105A

151

21 x 35 x 102

For Blade 400, etc.

34.99

 

4mm thinner than my 2250 packs, and they even have a 2700 pack which is 1mm thinner, but £10 more!!

 

Thunder Power.

Edited By Chuck Plains on 07/04/2013 10:04:12

Edited By Chuck Plains on 07/04/2013 10:04:37

Edited By Chuck Plains on 07/04/2013 10:14:27

[Graham Day]

Hi PaulC,

Forgot to mention; mine climbed markedly on application of power, without any elevator input.

This was cured by increasing the motor downthrust by adding two washers to the bolts at the top and behind the motor.

Good luck with your maiden!

Edited By Graham Day on 07/04/2013 10:19:16

[Chuck Plains]

Sounds like an ommission at the assembly point. Mine already had washers in place behind the motor top bolts.

[PaulC]

Hello All,

Thanks again, great info.

I took a look at my motor housing when doing the build, there were two washers on left side of motor - looking from pilots veiw which I presumed normal (take off thrust ?) but was surprised that the motor was simply held on by self tappers into plywood, I checked tightness and found they were all either loose or had been overtightened and were not gripping at all !! Took the model to the shop where the owner told me that self tappers were normal procedure now and tightened them by adding some super glue to the thread which he said would seep into the wood and keep everything secure?

Yes I am new to model flying but would have expected the motor to be held on by captive nuts maybe? - do any of you change them, these are after all powerfull machines.

Regards

Paul

[Graham Day]

Hi PaulC,

Super-glueing the screw holes in the plywood firewall should ensure the motor is completely secure, but it would be good to check. For safety you should have an experienced flyer look over the plane and take it up to check and trim it before you fly it yourself. They will pick up any issues that need to be sorted.

Good luck,

Graham

[Andy Butler]

I bought a Riot last week for a bit of fun in the evenings while it's still light enough. First impressions are good, nicely made and well thought out but I have made a couple of changes to the original.

First, the prop adaptor was changed out for one I had that was a lot beefier (the right hand one) than the rather slender thing it came with;

Next the prop was changed for an APC E 12 X 6 (bottom) as the originals were rather thin and too flexible for my liking.

And the wheels were swapped out for some that were a little larger, to cope better with our less than bowling green strip, and they were actually round. The ones supplied were out of round by quite some margin.

Oh and I substituted the axle bolt with a stainless cap head machine screw as there are reports that these are a little on the soft side.

Other than that, as it came really. However there is one thing I wanted to share.

As the red paint scuffs quite easily, it's worth noting that Tamiya acrylic gloss red (X7) is an almost exact match and you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. I did a couple of areas on mine and you'd never know. Should be doing the maiden on Tuesday so I'll let you know how it goes.

[Steve Kenney]

Hi Andy, thanks for tip re red paint. I've had my Riot about 18 months now and had a lot of fun with it, tho the red paint around the nose looks a bit tatty! This model got me back into the hobby after a layoff of around 10 years and it's doing that job nicely. Just a note about the fin - please check its glued securely into the fuselage, mine was not - in fact it almost came adrift during the first few flights and a think I've seen a few other posts re this potential fault. Good luck with the maiden!

[Ken Leeper]

Hi

When my model arrived the motor would stutter - this was fixed simply by pulling the leads between the esc and motor apart and reseating - didn't realise it was the fix at 1st but had same problem on an Easystar I'd upgraded to brushless and both sorted the same way!!

To my mind the split undercarriage is the weak part - Andy you might want to do something about that before your 1st one-wheel landing if you're like me - maybe epoxy something across the join so a less than perfect landing takes the strain on all 4 puny screws not just 2

Ken

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

I took a few shots of a RIOT in a blustery wind today, thought you might enjoy?

Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 18/08/2013 23:17:07

[Peter Beeney]

Yes, I think you’re correct, Steve, there might well be an issues with the fin becoming detached. Check it out here. The fin should be glued into a plastic holder at it’s base, which in turn is held on to the fuselage by two self tapping screws through the tailplane. There appears to be no trace of any glue here at all.

PB

[Andy Butler]

What glue would you guys recommend for the fin? - yes mine came adrift too on giving it the tug test. As has been said before, it was only the paint holding it on.

And be careful with the undercarriage, it has sharp edges - as I found out last night.

Edited By Andy Butler on 21/08/2013 11:13:46

[Peter Beeney]

I paint brush foam safe kicker onto one half of the joint, and give it a few mins to dry. Meanwhile I cover the other half with MPX Zacchi, a foam safe cyano. Bring them together for a permanent bond in 20 seconds.
Make sure it’s a good dry fit first, though, there is not much adjusting time!!

I’ve also found this technique is brilliantly fast when repairing foam models generally, and it adds little weight, unlike some epoxy repairs I’ve seen.

PB

[Pete B]

It's worth pointing out that normal CA used with kicker, not foam-safe CA, is recommended for EPO.....

Keep the foam-safe for EPS, etc.

Pete

[Andy Butler]

Great chaps, thanks for that. I have plenty of medium CA and kicker, I'll give it a go tonight.

[Andy Butler]

Got it all sorted now with a little medium CA and kicker. All ready for the maiden on Tuesday evening as long as the weather allows.

[Mark R]

Morning Y'All, thought i would add my two peneth to the Riot. Bought one about 2 weeks ago and put it together down at the field, reason for this? well i was out and about it was a lovely day and i had nothing in my car to fly so impulse led me to buy one. First impression, well yeh as has been said Wot 4 hmmmm! Built it in about 20 mins if that but over tightened the chocolate prop adapter, snapped in 2 oh thanks! So flying curtailed even before i took off in anger.

Added new prop adapter i had in spares pot and back to field. All pre flight checks done, good 3S 2650 battery in holder, plug in took off...ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ...oh my what a gutless wonder! Nothing to endear it at all. 3 mins later i landed thoroughly hacked off, i wanted to keep this in the car as a hack/ooh lets fly model. Even went thru the "teaching" the ESC throttle range again but 2nd fight the same thing. What have i done its a lemon. Back home i stripped out the ESC and slammed in a 60A one as i thought lets throw 4S at it. Back to the field couple of days later. Bit more oomph in fact lots better than 1st flight. Landed after 7 mins or so with a lil grin on face. Decided to try 3S again and I can honestly say the stock ESC sucks big time. On a 3S 2200 or 2650 or even a 3000 it flies so much better. Now i have a hack i can throw around and have a giggle with and do you know what, its foam and it bounces really well especially when the weedy wheels bolts give up the ghost. So yeh its sort of a Wot 4 but not and no it probably wont set yer pants on fire, but it will, at a push, knife or should that be spoon edge and inverted is easy peasy, so if you want something different to a Wot 4 give it a whirl, but beware of :-

A - Prop adapter, choccy flavoured one

B - Wheel bolts (see above)

C- Glue (UHU Por) the fin in dont rely on the screws

D - Most importantly, ditch the ESC for a 60-80A one it changes the ball game and will allow 4S with no dramas.

So that was my 2 peneth

Edited By Mark R on 31/08/2013 02:57:35