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2013 Mass Build - general chat thread


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Tim - that sounds interesting, I do admit I might be jumping the gun somewhat! I'll keep an eye out for them when you get them ready.

BEB - Wood packs sound good, I'm no fan of cutting out! I appreciate the timing, I'm just getting a bit ahead of myself. I'll get me coat and get on with my current builds for a while smiley

CS - I love the foxjet, one of my first models years ago, although I never remember finishing it sadly, are you temptedby one?

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Can I just say how delighted I am that the Tucano has been chosen for the 2013 RCM&E mass build!

Not just because it's one of my designs, but in the knowledge that anyone who builds it will not only (hopefully!) enjoy the build sequence, but the end product is, if I say so myself, a superb flier and with the huge variety of colourschemes available, can end up an extremely good looking model.

If there's anything I can do to help anyone during this project I will be glad to; I haven't actually built one myself for about 10 years so I'll be getting involved and will hopefully be making a few modifications along the way to improve on the original.

My last one was destroyed completely a few years ago in a mid-air collision during an electric slot at Woodvale which was mainly my fault and I've regretted not having one since, as they make a great everyday hack as well as being a very capable aerobat.

So I'm going to be digging out the templates left over from when I once produced the model as a kit, and will hopefully have one up and running early in the new year.

Best of luck to everyone who voted and I hope each Tucano builder ends up with a model to be proud of and that gives long and enjoyable service.

Nigel Hawes.

Edited By Nigel Hawes on 30/10/2012 20:56:40

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Good to have you around Nigel.

If you're building one you should post on the signing up thread.

Do you think there's any scope at all for squeezing modern retracts in? Even if it means a deviation from the plan to use a built up wing.
Considering of course that the powertrain ought to be a fair bit lighter than the original brushed setup.

It's the nosewheel that I think might just not fit in.

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Yep, just to clarify what BEB mentioned - I've spoken to our retail plans service people and they're happy to offer a discount on plans and canopies. I'll let you know what that's goes live.

I've also put the wheels in motion to get a cnc/laser parts pack into production - that'll take a couple of weeks before it goes on sale but I'll let everyone know just as soon as....

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Got most of my bits done already, only took a few hours once the wood arived from SLEC! Seems to me there isn,t much needs CNC cut cos its all simple shapes. But what about the front foarmer will this be available seperately cos its the only CNC bit you'll need! Mine's gonna be a camo scheme I think they look real mean in that. Romie.
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Hi All,

OK the sign-up thread has been running for 5 days and we have 36 signed up so far.

That's pretty good - but over 150 forum members voted for the Tucano - so let's be having you then! Don't be shy, if your going to build a Tuc as part of the mass build project let us know about it here.

BEB

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This seems to have been designed for a Nicad pack so what modifications have people found necessary for a 3S 2200 Lipo? Does the CG need the Lipo further forward? ( i.e. move F2 forward )

A question for Nigel re his comments on the sign up thread........I have always thought the fus on this model did not look quite like the real Tucano, so does the fus need to be a little deeper to be scale? I suppose we really want a great flying model so it does not really matter but if a slight mod to the fus made it look better we all want to know before we start!

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As I mentioed in an earler reply, I only just balance with a 3s 3000 lipo and AXI 2820/10 (150/160 gm) from recollection), no way to balance with a 2200 lipo.

I would move F2 forward, and probably go for a lighter less powerful motor, you could save 4 0z plus with a 3s 2200 lipo and compatable motor.

Moving F2 really only works if your not using the UC as it used to mount the uc hardwood block

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Hi KC,

You are absolutely right - the fuselage wasn't really deep enough, this was done so it could be made from a single length of 4" wide 3/16" x 36" balsa sheet without having to "stick bits on" for the peak of the empennage. The wing - to - tail couple is also a little stretched, but that really helps with smoothness so I'll be leaving that alone.

Also the wing does not have the correct root - to - tip taper, originally done to increase the wing area and help avoid the tendency to stall, neither of which were really necessary; flat sheet wings are pretty stall-resistant anyway, and one of my prototypes actually flew better at 4lbs than 3lbs - sometimes a model can simply be too light!

However, whilst I intend to address both issues on my second version, I will be making one as per plan (with a slightly beefed up nose after experience with escaping front formers on early prototypes!) as it's a known quantity.

Any mods I make to the second one I will certainly post here, but it's more of an experiment to see if I can replicate the model's good overall characteristics whilst taking it a little nearer to scale.

Regarding the C of G issues - I would personally be using a pair of 2200ma/h 3s packs in parallel not only to help with the C of G position, but to give the model decent duration. I also have a single Rhino 4900ma/h 3s pack that weighs almost as much as an old 10-cell 1700CP NiCad, so little will change regards battery positioning.

Hope this helps!

Nigel Hawes.

PS EDIT - I wouldn't personally move any of the formers; it's designed the way it is for a reason! Using really light stock for the tail components will help, but the answer is without doubt larger capacity Li-Pos or a pair of smaller packs paralleled up IMHO.

Edited By Nigel Hawes on 02/11/2012 12:29:30

Edited By Nigel Hawes on 02/11/2012 12:33:08

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Nigel,

Do you think mounting the motor on a rear firewall rather than front mounting is the way to go?, most motors these day come that way round with x mount plates, saves having to reverse the motor shaft, gets round the issue of the limited mounting area of the motor plate and provides another bulkhead in the front to stiffen up the whole structure, you need a hatch, but thats was on your original plan anyway.

 

Tim

Edited By Tim @ ModelMarkings.com on 02/11/2012 12:39:10

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KC,

When it comes to motor mounting that may indeed be a better idea, and it would do away with the need for the complicated CNC-cut front former which was difficult to secure and as a result could often suffere if prop / spinner balance wasn't good.

As everyone will probably use a different set-up on their 2013 Tucano, I think the forum thread will be a great way of pooling ideas so everyone has a number of options.

Just because I designed the thing doesn't mean it was perfect by any means and I can't wait to see what improvements myself and other builders on here can make to what is now a 10-year-old design, to make it into a significantly better end product!

As I said on the other thread, it will be a nice bit of nostalgia for me, and hopefully an extremely successful model for those who indulge.

Nigel Hawes.

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Hello everyone, I just joined the forum and have registered my intention to build a Tucano. I've orderd the plan and cowl so waiting for the balsa bashing to commence!

Thinking about motors I have a Overlander 3536/05 1450kv, this is the motor the E2K boys use for pylon racing, should make the Tucano shift a bit. I had it in a Ripmax Spitfire running 3S set up with 9x6 prop, pulls around 50A (yes 500W), but changed to 8x6 to reduce the power a bit. I'll wait and see what happens. Alternatively the 1000kv version would be good with a 10 or 11 inch prop. best of all they are inexpensive and so far have not let me down.

Chris D

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