2013 Mass Build - general chat thread

[Robin Kearney]

Hi guys,

I've not done a build thread for my Tucano because recently I've been having enough of computers during the day to face them much in the evening, but I've been asking the odd question and getting very helpful replies - so thank you all for that. Just thought I'd drop a pic in here to say she is all but finished.

All the remains is to check the balance and get the ESC and RX mounted properly.

Thanks for all the help you've given along the way, and thanks to Tim for the covering set and decals, they were fantastic, although I did make the odd gaf while applying them!

Few more pics in this album.

It has been a very enjoyable build, not least because of all the help from the forum and being able to read all the chat and build threads as I went along. Right, now I have to get on an fly her!

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Ian - that sounds interesting, article ideas always welcome, best to email [email protected]

Folks, I've just noticed that I have a small supply of fly-in Tucano-inspired stickers left so drop me a PM with your address if you'd like one

 

That's very nice Robin 

 

 

 

 

Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 11/07/2013 16:25:42

[WolstonFlyer]

Hi Robin, she looks very smart. I hope the maiden flight goes well

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

Very tasty indeed Robin. That colour scheme is excellent. Best wishes with the maiden - I find she flies very easily so you shouldn't expect any big issues. I did find that mine at least is a bit senisitive on CoG - so make triple sure that you have it right, but once that's sorted its fine.

BEB

[Robin Kearney]

Thanks gents,

I'm away for a long weekend now, so hopefully will get her finished next week and maybe a maide next weekend. Time to crack on with that Pulse I accidentally bought at Wings and Wheels

[Phil Winks]

Mike as BEB (yes it was BEB this time Chris ) great news.

on the hatch subject I fitted one with double magnetic catches lined the outline with trim line tape and then filmed over it so in effect no hatch but should I need to remove it a scalpel along the raised line of the trim tape under the film and voila hatch pops of it runs from the rear of the fire wall to the cockpit

Phil

[Phil Winks]

Posted by Robin Kearney on 11/07/2013 16:03:13:

Hi guys,

I've not done a build thread for my Tucano because recently I've been having enough of computers during the day to face them much in the evening, but I've been asking the odd question and getting very helpful replies - so thank you all for that. Just thought I'd drop a pic in here to say she is all but finished.

All the remains is to check the balance and get the ESC and RX mounted properly.

Thanks for all the help you've given along the way, and thanks to Tim for the covering set and decals, they were fantastic, although I did make the odd gaf while applying them!

Very Nice Job Robin shame you didn't make greenacres with her I reckon the shield wouldn't be sitting on my lounge shelf right now if you had. Best of luck and good weather for the maiden

Phil

[Colin Leighfield]

Really looks the part Robin. Particularly bear in mind BEB's comment about the cg. Better a bit in front of the plan position and definitely not behind it. Mine is about 6mm in front and flies on rails, it's perfect.

[Robin Kearney]

Phil, in this case the camera might be telling a fib or two, it looks nicer in photos than in the flesh, but I often find that is the case!

id have loved to come to greenacres this year, and in fact had planned to attend but work got the better of me causing me to be up for mot of the weekend with server moves

Worth mentioning the wing is removable, I used about half of your design Phill, but with two dowels at the rear instead of a tongue. It works very nicely, thanks for your suggestions around that, I'm glad the wing is removable, with my confined storage space it makes it far more practical.

Colin, will do, I'll do as you both suggest and likely have it forward by 5mm or so for the maiden, rather a nose heavy first flight than a tail heavy one resulting in firewood!

[Phil Winks]

Well thats definately the case with mine too Robin looks a good bit better in the photo's well in my opinion anyways lol. further to the COG position Mine is approx 10mm forward of the plan position and as Colins does it tracks true and glides in nice just the slightest touch of power needed up to about 3 foot of the deck and no immediate nose drop when you cut the power. the stall is almost a harrier all in all a great 1st low winger in fact I've flown some twitcher high wing 3ch trainers.

Phil

[Colin Leighfield]

Taking into account the rearward cg sensitivity (true of most planes), this design has got amazing flying characteristics. Certainly makes you think about what really is critical in design parameters. Can't wait to see Nigels 1/12 scale B36 with 6 Thumpers, 4 Jetcats and a flat-plate wing! Go on Nigel, do it!

[Mike Hardy]

Canopy Magnets: not used them so questions - What size? Round or square? Mating surface - another magnet or steel? Fixing - glue or countersink screw? Do they decay quickly?

Thanks guys for your comments

Mike.

[Phil Winks]

Posted by Mike Hardy on 13/07/2013 09:37:48:

Canopy Magnets: not used them so questions - What size? Round or square? Mating surface - another magnet or steel? Fixing - glue or countersink screw? Do they decay quickly?

Thanks guys for your comments

Mike.

Mike there are a couple of schools of thought here, my preference is to use the magnets in pairs and let them in so they are just below the surface, so when the hatch is closed the magnets don't quite touch, the thickness of a sheet of paper is adequate, it prevents surface damage as the hatch snaps shut.

I used 2 pair on my Tucano cockpit with a tongue at the front end, they were the 10mm round ones that SLEC sell and the grip is pretty firm,

The matching pair are set into the rear of the cockpit, this arangement obviously creates a sliding fit but is still very firm where as the hatch forward of the cockpit has the magnets pulling directly towards each other and is firmer still

If you were to arrange the magnets as in my forward hatch and use a metal strip to bridge them in the hatch ensure the magnets are opposite poles up or the grip would at best be severely reduced .

Phil

Edited By Phil Winks on 13/07/2013 10:00:26

[Mike Hardy]

Thanks Phil, the contact area in the hatch - magnet or steel (screw etc)

Mike.

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

For canopies I tend to use two magnets at the rear like those pictures above, with a tongue or peg fitting a slot or hole at the front.

I use more magnets in the hatch, but you have to be very careful to get them the right way round.
I usually end up gluing them in with the hatch in position on the model, but with cling film between canopy and model.

[Phil Winks]

Posted by Mike Hardy on 13/07/2013 12:03:49:

Thanks Phil, the contact area in the hatch - magnet or steel (screw etc)

Mike.

either Mike but my preference is another magnet

Phil

[WolstonFlyer]

Mike, as Phil says use pairs of magnets to get the strongest "stick"

"my preference is to use the magnets in pairs and let them in so they are just below the surface, so when the hatch is closed the magnets don't quite touch, the thickness of a sheet of paper is adequate, it prevents surface damage as the hatch snaps shut."

[Colin Leighfield]

I have used two pairs of 5mm dia circular neodym magnets. I glued a tongue to the front of the canopy, to slide under the top sheeting of the front fuselage. I glued a piece of 12mm square balsa across the canopy base at the back end and drilled two 5mm holes, on 25 mm centres and epoxied two magnets in flush. Next I glued another piece of 12 mm square across the fuselage to line up with the piece on the canopy base. Then I put the other two magnets onto the pair in the fuselage and fitted the canopy, pushing it lightly down so that the adhering magnets dented the canopy strip. Next I drilled the 5mm holes on those marks and smeared some 5mm epoxy inside those holes, following which I pushed the canopy back down and left it while the epoxy set.

This has given me a canopy which goes on and off with a very satisfying click, is perfectly located and will never come off inadvertently. Personally I didn't want any air gap at all between the magnet faces because even a slight gap has a big effect on magnetism. Having said that, I'm sure that all of these options are ok.

[Mike Hardy]

Thanks guys, do you abrade the magnet surface to act as a key for the epoxy?

Mike.

[Colin Leighfield]

Mike. I've never bothered and haven't had one come loose yet. Can't do any harm if you'd rather though.

[Phil Winks]

i usually do mike just the back surface and only a little on med wet or dry

Phil

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

Mike, you can either abrade it to provide a key - or you can very slightly submerge it in the epoxy - which is what I did - see my build blog for details this page about 1/3 down and onwards.

BEB

[Mike Hardy]

Thanks Guys, just ordered some 5mm dia X 3 mm thick off ebay. Storage - nowhere near metal objects?

Mike.

[Phil Winks]

Posted by Mike Hardy on 15/07/2013 14:44:19:

Thanks Guys, just ordered some 5mm dia X 3 mm thick off ebay. Storage - nowhere near metal objects?

Mike.

Hopefully they will be fine Mike, mine were 10mm x 3mm so to get that level of grip you may need to fit 3 pairs to the hatch instead of the 2 I used but maybe not

Phil

Edited By Phil Winks on 15/07/2013 18:22:05

[Colin Leighfield]

I've only used 2pairs of 5mm dia, but with direct magnet to magnet contact the canopy is very firm. If I used a third set I'd need a tyre lever to get it off.