Mike Hardy Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Hi Danny, what do you mean by a jewellers saw? is it some form of a 'Junior hacksaw'. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 I am thinking along the same lines as Mike and BEB. It is a very long time since I have seen a book on general model construction techniques and as has been said, a magazine article from the past will probably not be read by a newbie. Perhaps some of us could get together and put into print via RCM&E a collection of chapters on the particular subject which we know best. There must be a market for something like this which could turn out to be quite a tome. An online version would allow additions and updates as available and could be downloaded for a fee. What do you think? Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Hi Mike, your comment just goes to prove my point. And please do not think I am having a go because I am not. I mentioned jewellers saws in Aprils edition of RCM&E also about Pallet knives for mixing epoxy and filler. So I do try and throw in some of the stuff that you mention. Anyway I digress a Jewellers saw is a bit like a fret saw but the blades are very fine indeed. They are obviously designed to cut very intricate shapes in metal, so plastics and wood are no problem at all. The saw frame was a tenner and the baldes just a couple of pounds for dozens. You will not know how useful a tool it is until you have one Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 So the next question of course Danny is `where do I get one`? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Lol okay I DIDN'T say where in the column so thats a fair comment This one here is almost identical to the one I have but its cheaper than I paid If you search for blades on that same web site you will see a variety of pitch blades are available. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Danny, what grade of blade do you use on canopies. It is this sort of info that is lacking in the mag and books in general. Master builders like yourself need to share this info with us mortals (please). Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Hi Mike, I did mention in the magazine that I had bought two blade sizes 4/0 which is 38 tpi and 1/0 which is 53 tpi. I have used the 53 tpi blade for everything from cutting lith, G10 (fibreglass board) aluminium, plastic, chemiwood and PETG (canopy plastic). Aso I mention that IMO if you mount the blade so that it cuts on the pull stroke it is easier to cut fiddly bits. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Thanks Danny. Just ordered one since it will be useful to me for cutting GF sheet on my next build. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Nice one Martin, I know you will find it useful. It makes a good job of intricate balsa block too. That web site was a gold mine. They have all sorts of nifty tools, I wish the dapping blocks weren't out of stock I would have had one of those. in case you don't know what a dapping block is: When used with daps you can make terrific landing light reflectors Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 Hi all, Wing fairings Using Phil's wing mod which method to use? I intend to fix to the fuselage. Solid built up or top and bottom sheet. Thanks for any hints tips. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 Er,..I'm not sure what you mean by "top and bottom sheet" Mike? I just cut the fairings in one piece from the shape on the plan, wet the wood slightly and did by best to push it into shape! Admittedly at first I wasn't too happy with them, but once blended in witha bit of filler I thought they looked fine! Making them from solid is possible - but its a lot of work and quite a difficult bit of carving/sanding etc. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 Thanks BEB, Top and bottom sheet _ With wing assembled to the fuselage cover wing root with cling film then lay down thin ply cut to the shape per plan then glue edge to fuselage. Then thin balsa sheet cut to the fairing shape and glued to the ply. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 Posted by Mike Hardy on 16/08/2013 12:43:08: Thanks BEB, Top and bottom sheet _ With wing assembled to the fuselage cover wing root with cling film then lay down thin ply cut to the shape per plan then glue edge to fuselage. Then thin balsa sheet cut to the fairing shape and glued to the ply. Mike. That will work Mike possibly better than my attempt at sanding them out of solid balsa I fixed mine to the wing but in retrospect I would fix them, like you, to the fuselage any small gaps will be less obvious watch for the shape at the wing L/E its the trickiest point to get right as its quite a small curve possibly best to finish them on the L/E and have done Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 Ah - I forgot, you have a detachable wing. Yes - then I see what you mean. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 It's nice to see this thread still running. I've bought a jewellery saw as recommended by Danny, with four sets of different grade blades and I look forward to trying it out. I said previously that I wanted to build a "son of Tucano" to see if the flat plate wing would still be immune to tip stalling with a sharply tapered wing and was going to have a go at a 1/10 scale Supermarine Spiteful/Seafang. Once I open my big mouth and start these things, they always take longer than I intended, but if anyone is interested, here it is. It's 42' wingspan, slightly less wing area than the Tucano, but adequate, a bulkier but nicely shaped fuselage and generous scale tail surface areas. Weight shouldn't be much more and with the same power train as the over-powered "Sea" Tucano, I don't see a problem. It will be finished as Seafang F32 prototype VB895 and Tim at Model Markings has done the decals for me. Because of the tapered wing, strip ailerons aren't practical but I've been able to hide two servos in the thin wing by putting them inside the underwing radiators. The down-side of the wing design is that you can't fit retracts, but I'm going to start off with a fixed u/c to see if it works and if so, may risk trying it without. Later I might do what Martin MacIntosh did with his Tucano and try it with a built-up wing (with 3 degrees of wash-out)! and incorporate retracts. However, the most important thing is to see if the flat-plate wing works in this application. As soon as I've got it closer to flight-ready, I'll put some more pictures in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 That looks cracking Colin, well done. Its bound to fly well looking like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 That looks very nice Colin be interesting to hear how it flies. How much dihedral is in there? BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Hawes Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Don't worry about that wing, Colin, it will be fine. Get it submitted as a free plan! I don't recall this one being done before Nige. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Thank you Danny and BEB. I've always thought this very interesting 'plane has all of the ingredients for an excellent scale model. Years ago I drew one up to 70" but never finished the construction detail. I've still got the drawing though, so maybe. The only model of this I know is the Pete Nicholson design, 51" span, in the Traplet range (can I say that)? I've bought the plan and it looks quite good, definitely a candidate for electric conversion. BEB, I drew the dihedral at 4 degrees from the root, it's about 1.25" at the tip. I measured that from a 1/72 scale drawing and it looks about right, although I'm sure that I read a reference somewhere to 6 degrees. That looks too much to me. It's an interesting question though, because the original hybrid Spiteful prototype NN660 had less and I know that they increased it as one of the measures to cure the Achilles heel of the design, poor low-speed handling close to the stall. Could write a book on this one. I think it's summed up nicely by a letter that Jeffrey Quill wrote to Aeroplane Enthusiast magazine in 1973, responding to an article about the Attacker, which was originally called the "Jet Spiteful". He said that he had told Joe Smith that the Attacker would have been "a b - - - - sight better aeroplane with a Spitfire wing"! I think he was right, I think that with the late Spitfire 21/24 series wing it would have been excellent instead of mediocre, as it turned out to be. However, that doesn't change my view that this has the ingredients for an interesting model. I've always been an anorak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Just seen Nigel's posting, which crossed mine! If it works, I'll need to tidy up my drawing, I've done it on the back of the Tucano plan! As I mentioned, Pete Nicholson has done a 51"Spiteful and his plan has been up-dated to include retracts, but I've never seen one and most people seem to be unaware of it. I did find one on Youtube though done by a French guy, having a very hairy first flight. (Aft cg)? It looks about the right size to be Pete Nicholson's design. I'm not aware though of anyone doing anything this size for electric power and I thought that going for the Seafang rather than the Spiteful made it a bit more interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Hawes Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Colin - RCM&E have a draughtsman who will scan your drawing and convert it to CAD. He is a hero. I submit my scribbles in my version of CAD (Child Ability Drawing) and he converts them to his version of CAD! (Computer Aided Design) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Nigel, thank you. Modern technology never seems to amaze me! This is drawn up basically using your principles and it's about the same level of work as the Tucano. My only reservation is that I had the fuselage well advanced with a front mounted motor before I had the incident which lead me to convert the Tucano to rear mount. It would have meant a lot of work to alter the Seafang at that stage, but the front end is a lot more substantial with bigger gluing areas, so I have left it like that. However, it would be easy to alter the drawing to rear mount. If there is any interest in this one, I'd be very happy to see a few more built. It ought to work, I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Hi Colin, I built one of these quite some years ago from a plan in the `other` mag. It was YS53 powered so I would have thought a span of rather more than 51". Heavyish chunky block fuselage which came it handy when glueing it back together! That laminar flow section made it a pig at low speed and it would go into a spin when it felt like it. You will not have that problem with the plate wing. An unusual subject, which is why I built it. Eventually sold to some poor unsuspecting soul. P.S. bought one of those saws too and have already used it quite a lot on fiddly grp parts. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 And what do you make of the saw Martin? Handy aren't they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 And what do you make of the saw Martin? Handy aren't they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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