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Parkzone Albatros


Erfolg
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This is to give you all notice that I am going to start the big build of the Albatross.

To be honest I am of very limited experience of building ARTF models.

To date I have built 3. A Gee Bee Super sporster by Fantastic models, which took some 3 months. Then a Dornier 335 by Nito models, taking at least a month, by the time I repainted it. Lastly a GWS Texan, which did not take to long.

I have found that they are of variable ARTF building requirements.

Being until lately a dyed in the wood traditional builder in balsa and ply, I have been pleasantly surprised at there build speed and more so by thier flying qualities. Flying some one elses Parkzone Radian from time to time has emphasised there flying qualities.

Tomorrow, Fathers Day, I am scheduled to be in receipt of an albatross, for being the grumpiest father in the World. I feel so proud to be so well appreciated and my positive qualities.

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Ben

It is PNP, as well as BNF. As should not take to long, we will see. My first ARTF took +3 months. It was quite a job.

I did receive my Grumpy farthers Day present.

What did I think? Well you could not be but impressed by the box and packaging. Although Graupner models have always been superbly packaged, it seems that that level of high standard presentation has spread to products costing much less. My first Keil Kraft and Veron kits came in boxes with printed top box and plain lower box, larger kits from these manufactures just came in a cardboard box with a printed label stuck on. In fact my recent kits from Cloud Models(me 163) and the Gee Bee were plain brown boxes with nothing. Does it matter? Well it does give a good impression and helps sell the contents, if selling is needed.

box.jpg

Opening the box again really impresses, as any worry about damage should be dismissed, unless the box has been subjected to abuse.

content.jpg

as you can see excellent packaging!

I have taken the body out of the box and have inserted a 2200 lipo, no problem. I will however have to change the plug on the ESC to a Deans Type, which is the type I have standardised upon.

I will write about how easy that is to do, when done.

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Ahhh the subterfuge of modern nomenclature

PNP Plug and Play, meaning you supply the Tx and Rx.

BNF, bind and fly, meaning everything is there, all you need to do is charge the batteries and bind the Tx to the Rx. In the case of Parkzone the BNF is Spektrum, Tx and Rx.

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So how has the big build gone?

The first challenge was changing the XT60 plug to a Deans. For me this was a challenge, as I could not shift the ESC, although I could not see why. In situ soldering was a challenge as the lead lengths were so short. The close proximity of the EPP made me nervous that I could easily damage the body with the soldering iron, or a drip of solder. I put thick card in the aperture, to catch any drops of solder. I set up my hands free to hold the cable and plug, so that I only had to concentrate of where the soldering iron was, and tinning the joint. Plus the hands free ensured the assembly does not move during cooling.

Having done all of that, there was one more issue, the 8 FRSky Rx 2.4 is much larger than the Futaba one, or the FRSky 4. It does fit, by placing at 45 degrees across the body.

Now the standard build could begin. This was started after coming back from flying today. After 1 hour of leisurely assembly it is together.

The biggest challenge are driving in the self tapping screws, and erm, the mis-assembly of the undercarriage, that only a moron could cock up. Dunces hat on, and now standing in the corner.

I have one other slight issue, that is my 3s lipo seems to be slightly thicker than the Parkzone standard model.

Tomorrow, if I have the time set up the Rx and surfaces.

My opinion of the kit, is that it truly is ARTF, it goes together incredibly easy, compared to any other ARTF I have built. Then again I have only built a few.

How does it look you may ask? Superb. Is it scale looking? obviously not competition standard, yet a lot better than many built up similar sized models that I have seen.

As to flying, that is an other issue, not yet investigated.

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Since yesterday, I have come to the conclusion that it is necessary to fit an 1800 Lipo as the 2200 is both to large and perhaps a little heavy. I have ordered a 1800 Zippy from HK for approx £8.

I will use the 2200 to set up the throws and directions.

I have taken a few pics of the model, as it is now.

front.jpgquarter.jpgside.jpgfront.jpg

In the mean time I will be continuing with the TH Cleansweep.

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Tom

I do agree with you, it looks great.

That great look is all down to Parkzone. Some will dismiss the model as a toy, needing no skill to make. That view says even more about how accomplished Parkzone are.

Then there is another issue I have not touched on, it offers value for money. You get 4 servos, say they cost £2.50 to me each that is £10, then there is the motor, not many for less than £15, finally the ESC again about £15. A total of about £35. I normally spend at least £15 on film for covering, now we are at £50. Wheels about what £5, the dummy guns and engines, from Williams very dear, lets say £10. All up about £65 or more. That indicate the airframe has cost me £50, probably max.

I have to also admit many of these foam models fly better than my built up models. I have been amazed how durable some are, particularly the EPP models. Although not the most experienced flyer, probably not even average, I can cope with this type of model.

In principal I have to say that this really is a ARTF, almost puts itself together. There is one proviso, you need a good set of small Pozi drive and Phillips head screwdrivers.

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Whilst waiting for my new Lipo I set the direction of the surfaces.

I just had to reverse the Elevator and rudder.

I am a little surprised at the throws, which seem high. I may set the DR to 50% and add exponential to all the surfaces. Feed back on this would be handy, from others experience smile.

I was pleasantly surprised that the motor rotated in the correct direction. This almost surprised me as I usually find that at least 50% of the time it is wrong, first time. It feels like 90%, but is probably 50%.

I will have to change one of my usual procedures, which is to tape both the power lead and balance lead to the side of the the Lipo to remove any strain from plugging and unplugging on the connections in the Lipo. I found that I could not get enough movement to do this in the space available. I will have to think how I can achieve the same effect by a different method.

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My own came from Webbies apparently. Seems they may be becoming a little more electric orientated.

If they only stocked Graupner and Aeronaut folding prop blades, rather than just the odd ones.

I bet yours is finished. Looking forward to your pilots notes on how it performs.

As an aside, the 2200 battery, balances the model at 2 5/8, although I cannot close the hatch properly. Will the 1800 battery require some lead I wonder?

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Your comments made me think about the Lipo. I had ordered the 1800 to reduce weight. Although I was convinced that the 2200 had the model balanced properly.

Being averse to lead, in the nose. I did the obvious, i checked my other models for a thinner 2200 Lipo, as much of the thickness is due to the spacers. Yes i did find one, a Zippy, which fits well. Yes the model does balance correctly without ballast and the hatch closes easily.

I should have checked before ordering another Lipoembarrassed

I await your flight report, with great inerest.

Edited By Erfolg on 24/06/2012 16:16:45

Edited By Erfolg on 24/06/2012 16:35:39

Edited By Erfolg on 24/06/2012 16:36:20

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I am charging my Zippy as we speak.

Turnigy 2200 lipo will not fit well, straining the hatch. The Zippy is much slimmer, fitting easily. I guess there will be other 2200 brands which will also fit well.

The plus with 2200 is that the CG seems spot on.

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Agree with all that's been said regarding build and flight; build wise the undercarriage was a bit bewildering but if you refer back to box pics etc then you will be ok. The slots in the fuselage require some wiggling of the undercarriage frame to get in properly so be patient.

Mine is the BNF as I have a DX6i, conveniently there is an extension wire installed that allows fitting of the binding plug in the battery bay, meaning you don't need to worry about powering up until build is complete.

Flight wise it's stable and CG is spot on .

one observation is that it will flip around with wind; I was flying this evening in a 3-5 mph light breeze, and even then the odd little gust did catch it.

otherwise it looks cracking in the air, a beauty....

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Posted by Daithi O Buitigh on 26/06/2012 00:42:24:

Regarding soldering close to EPP - an old trick from the electronics trade is to soak a piece of cardboard in water, poke the necessary holes in it, feed the wire through and it makes a great heatsink - then just cut it off when finished

Great little tip there Daithi and i shall be remembering this one with out a doubt,thanks.wink 2

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