Gary Murphy 1 Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Just managed to get hold of some dupron sheet,6mm and will have a go at a plan build from a mag. Not sure of glue options though. I will need dupron to dupron and balsa/ply to dupron.Can anyone give advice please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Perkins 1 Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 If it is Depron you are using- Uhu POR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 3M No.77 Spray Adhesive (about £10 for 500ML) is also great for sticking large areas of depron, I use it to laminate layers of depron together and for sticking on kfm2 airfoils on to wings. I also use a hot glue gun with two heat settings for quick build foamies, just don't push the nozzle of the glue gun right into the joint as it will melt the depron. Edited By WolstonFlyer on 19/06/2012 09:57:38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliggsy Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Gorilla glue, it's a bit like the expanding foam that builders use so you have to use it sparingly otherwise it forces your joint apart, holds within about one hour and once stuck forget it cos' you won't part it. Larger Tescos and Homebase keep it in stock but do a google for your nearest stockist, oh and BTW it's the brown variety, never tried the white so dunno' bout that one.......Glyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_B Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 +1 for UHU Por. With care, live hinges can be made on the control surfaces with it thus eleminating the need for unsightly tape which can be difficult to paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyclicscooby Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 I use Foam2foam (£5) which is like UHU.. And a foam safe CA too. I find there's always a need for both.. i.e. Use the UHU for sticking main bits together, and CA for CF rods, n camera platforms, etc.. When gluing ply plates to depron, just use the foam2foam.. Luv Chrisie.. xx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Plains Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 When my Depron arrives, I'll be using hot glue, I'm also waiting to recieve the low temp version for use mostly on EPS. Depron recommend UHU Por by the way, but although i haven't used it on |Depron yet I don't like it too much. I stuck a pair of wings ogether with Por, and when I removed the tape that was holding the parts together, it pulled the Por out of the join, like chewing gum from yer gob! :¬D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Its UHU POR, for Depron. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malcolm woodcock 1 Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 I somtimes use 'Liquid Weld' as well' but likr all glues test it before on scraps. Some of the glues work on depron if used sparingly and don't forget that accelerator can eat foam if over used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Whilst UHU POR is excellent for sticking large areas remember it is a 'contact' type adhesive and never really dries hard. This can be a problem if you are building up a complex structure with many small area joints. My latest build used Evo Stick PVA wood glue on both the Depron/Depron and Depron/wood surfaces. Relatively cheap (compared to POR!) and readily available its only disadvantage is it takes some time (12 hrs) to dry although this does allow plenty of time for adjustment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 I have used all the above, yes they work. I have also used on large areas PVA, I roughen the surface with abrasive paper, then spread the PVA. Being water based, it takes a day to set. The bond is quite good. I have not spotted Epoxy, in the above, but it also works, but heavy like glue gun hot adhesive. I have used foam friendly cyno, also called Odour less. Gorilla Glue is just a brand name, the one referred to is a Polyurethane adhesive, one of many similar brands (elk by Henkel, Woodmate and many more), all much the same. Gorilla also sell Cyno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toni Reynaud Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 For laminating large areas (like making a nose block or KF wing layers) you can use cellulose thinners. Get the parts ready, damp (I said DAMP not wet) a cloth with thinners and wipe it over the contact area of the sheet, put together and hold for a few minutes - done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 Toni That sounds like a good idea. I guess it is best done outside? or as they say "in a well ventillated area"! In principal should it also work with smallish edges etc.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toni Reynaud Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 Hi Erfolg, I saw this demonstrated at a recent Club meeting. I immediately tried it to confirm the procedure and was pleasantly surprised by it's efficiency. I did try fixing a piece of 3mm edgewise onto a sheet, like joining skin to a former, and it worked. However, the edge to be joined has to be really accurate - sanding the edges true and suchlike. This is not a gap-filling procedure. I have not yet got round to testing similar joints against UHU-Por and aliphatic glues. And yes, if doing a lot of joins, a well ventilated working area is a must. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Bradford Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 I used uhu por and found it to be very good, however i have discovered evo-stik serious glue at my local tesco. it dries leaving a solid join (uhu por remains too soft) and won't come apart. Look for the 33ml tubes.you can get it easily on ebay also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Kane Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 I found this today in Maplin. **LINK** Excellent adhesion and no melting of the foam. Product code: N66AN £4.49 for 500ml Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Plains Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Good job Craig! I've just paid for 2 cans and will collect after work tomorrow. :¬ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon Nicol Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Any one tried this yet, I am building a GWS tiger moth 400 and the tail plane mount drops off a bit to one side due to the mouldings being a bit off. I trimmed it up as best I could with fine sand paper but was a bit worried I was getting a bit enthusiastic , and would take too much off , I thought epoxy micro balloons, but that would be adding a bit much weight to a model that is going to be tail heavy as it is , was there an alternative... I have tried a couple of test pieces of depron with just the GWS glue, epoxy and filler, and GWS glue and filler,. The strongest is obviously the epoxy, but it was a surprise that the GWS glue and filler, apart from taking a long time to fully harden , was very comparable and lighter.... I believe UHU Por would also give similar results and be a bit quicker setting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 The thing with the GWS glue is that it's best results are as a contact adhesive - spread some on both surfaces, leave it until it is touch-dry, then bring the two bits together and press. Works much better than slathering it on and then waiting for ages for it to dry and harden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon Nicol Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Yep , lecky, I am aware of how contact adhesives work, in fact recently I relaminated all the work surfaces in my motor home with formica and copydex, with impressive results( well I think they are impressive). fact of the matter is , I was building the TM400 and reached for the Uhu Por and it was empty. so I thought I'd give the GWS glue a try, I have a lot of foamies, over many years and I have always used alternative adhesive. recently though I spent an interesting afternoon trying to remove the EDF units from my very old GWS A10. I ended up cutting the nacelles outside the glue lines and digging out the fans before reassembly and filler . (this is a PSS A10 now) before I try anything new, I will test it out on a scrap piece of foam and as I stated , when mixed with microballoons and left to harden it gives a seriously tough finish better in fact thean the glue used as a contact adhesive were two pieces were butt jointed,(it just takes a couple of days to completely set) almost as good as using epoxy/microballoons. Now I only posted this as I think it may be of some advantage to someone else, like Ithink it was Roy Lever, did on the telly model show years ago , using cyano and PVA to make balsa joints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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