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Motor Shaft Removal


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I assume you want to turn it round so that you can attach the prop adaptor to the bell rather than the shaft. Some turnigy motors are supplied with such an adapter. But they won't fit anyway. Some of their motors have only two screwq holes on the bell and curved 'non hole' arms so the adapter wobbles about. Been on another thread.

So check that before you bother at all. If that is what you are doing.

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Ive always found the vice method works fine and without any problems,The grub screw certainly do there job as well as a circlip if yours has one.I think the forces these motors create are higher than we appreciate,.I know a firend who started a motor and the shaft shot out with prop attached and he found it at the top of the garden in the cabbage patch.

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Posted by Andrew Ray on 01/09/2012 17:56:37:

Shaft is out of the Turnigy using the vice method, I placed a couple of large washers inside the bell before inserting the socket to spread the load evenly. When I come to replace the shaft I will leave the shaft in the freezer overnight to shrink it and warm up the bell to expand it as the shaft was incredibly tight in the housing. I'm not sure the grub screws do much, there are no witness marks on the shaft.

Thanks for the advice guys.

Did you need to remove the shaft ? I usually just push it through from one end to the other using a pillar drill in a similar way to tha vice method.

BTW apart from damaging the bearings hammering the shaft can also loosen the magnets.

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Posted by Chris Bott - Moderator on 01/09/2012 17:59:03:

Nice one Andrew.

Just don't let the magnets get too hot if yr warming things up. There is a limit, above which the magnetism is affected. Somone here may have some idea what that temperature is?

310 - 400 degrees C, the solder we commonly use melts at around 180 degrees C.

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