WolstonFlyer's Tucano

[Phil Winks]

Posted by WolstonFlyer on 07/03/2013 17:23:44:
I have not installed mine yet, it's tonights job!

Phil's F1a has the motor set 3mm off centre to the left (looking from the back of the plane forwards) so you could fix F1a at the angle or install it straight and shim the motor x mount with washers.

I will probably fix F1 straight to the end of the fuselage sides and have the outer 10mm balsa spacer ring shaped to allow for the thrust angle.

Thats certainly the way I intended the firewall and nose spacer ring to be fitted James

Phil

[WolstonFlyer]

Hi Phil

You mean use washers to space the motor or install F1a at an angle?

It seems to make sense to taper the outside nose ring and install F1 straight.

Cheers

[Phil Winks]

Posted by WolstonFlyer on 07/03/2013 18:12:13:
Hi Phil

You mean use washers to space the motor or install F1a at an angle?

It seems to make sense to taper the outside nose ring and install F1 straight.

Cheers

Yes indeed you've got it in one James washers and a tapered nose ring this will allow you to make infinite adjustment to the side thrust to get it perfect

Phil

[WolstonFlyer]

Thanks Phil

Building can now continue

Edited By WolstonFlyer on 07/03/2013 18:38:15

[Phil Winks]

[Martin McIntosh]

Hi Wolston, adding sidethrust with washers is OK on this but for any future build it is far better to offset the firewall. Washers will dig in and cause a loose motor later so use a strip of ply, GRP or WHY. They can also be difficult to fit unless cyanoed on. A protractor and square will easily determine the angle of the former and give you the exact centre of the propshaft.

[Colin Leighfield]

As far as the front versus rear motor mount is concerned, because the motor could be mounted either way, I debated this with myself and in the end went with the front route, for no particular reason except perhaps greater familiarity. In the event of a prang. I can't really see much difference in the scale of the consequences, although it occurred to me that transmitting the shock further back could have it's own disadvantages! Also, if the substantial aluminium prop-driver got bent, I think it's very likely that the shaft might not fare too well either! Eeny-meeny-miny-mo kind of thing.

With the model at the covering stage, I'm a bit concerned about the current advice on using ply doublers, it's a bit late. However, I understand Nigel's observations about the "squeeze" pressures with the grip needed for under-arm launching' (my next adventure)! in the area under the removable canopy hatch, which has got reduced lateral support. Bearing that in mind, I am going to insert doublers in that area made from very thin birch ply, which is "do-able".

It will be interesting to see the revised design detail in Nigel's final up- dated version!

[WolstonFlyer]

It has taken a couple of days (1 1/2 hours actual time) but I have finally got the F1a motor mount installed (hurray)

I was going to install it square on but in the end it took a little bit of tweaking and sanding and I have installed it at exactly 3 degrees. It is 39mm back from the fuselage front balsa edge on the port side and 41mm back from the front at the starboard side. Then adding 3mm for the plywood F1 and 10mm for the nose ring this positions the spinner nicely in position. I may have to sand the nose ring down to 9mm for a little bit more clearance on the spinner but I don't think that is bad at all for a first time builder

I have had the motor installed about 4 times just fine tuning the fit of everything but here is a photo taken about 10mins ago while the 30min epoxy is curing. Getting the motor back in again with thread lock on the X mount screws will be fun!

I have used T nuts on the back of F1a so at least that is one set of nuts and washers eliminated. I might decide cut the cap head bolts down a little bit as they stick out of the back of F1a rather a long way.

The next job will be to install the hardwood block for the nose wheel and then get the motor installed and sort out the routing of the wires. I am guessing that due to the length of the motor wires the ESC might have to go behind F2 or it might just fit on top of the nose wheel mounting block and hopefully get some air flow over it.

Edited By WolstonFlyer on 10/03/2013 00:13:12

[WolstonFlyer]

Here it is with the motor installed, actually quite easy to put in at the moment with no bottom fuselage sheeting in place.

I have a slight clearance problem with the front of the motor rubbing on the side of F1, the hole is hand cut (with a hand fretsaw) and not quite round, and the angle of the motor is making it rub slightly. Nothing that a bit of sanding cannot fix in the morning.

That is it for today, I have the day off work on Monday so expect loads more updates

[Geoff S]

That looks neat. If you look at my similar picture on my build thread I've had to cut some meat from the triangular stock to allow easy access to the motor mount bolts. I think I'll include a top hatch as in the original drawing to allow access after the build is completed, just in case.

Your prop driver looks about the same as mine - ie about 6mm thick. Will you have sufficient space for a 10mm spacer ring?

Geoff

[WolstonFlyer]

Hi Geoff

Good idea to keep a top hatch over the motor, I think I will do the same.

I think I can just get a 10mm spacer ring in place, it might end up being 9mm for clearance. I might put a big washer between the spinner back plate and the prop driver to bring the whole spinner and prop a couple of mm further forward to make the clearance. I will sort that all out later.

[WolstonFlyer]

Just starting to took at the top rear deacking and the special shaped triangle that is needed.

I had bought some 12mm triangle stock and I was going to cut it down to make the flat edge and then stick some thin sheet on to make up the thickness... but looking at the short lengths needed I thought I would have a go at making up my own version of the "special" shape that is needed.

Well here is the result and it worked quite well, a quick sand over and it is perfectly useable, hand cut with a scalpel from some left over 10mm medium sheet. The narrow flat side will be glued onto the top of the fuselage sides as per the plan.

Sorry the picture is a bit out of focus, it was tricky to get my camera phone to focus on the end of the stick.

Photograph from Nigel's website

[WolstonFlyer]

And here is my hand cut triangle shape installed, I sanded the fuselage sides flat so that when the triangle is glued in place the top surface is also flat ready for the 10mm top decking sheet.

[WolstonFlyer]

A picture of the top decking installed, I have lots of shaping to do after lunch!

[Mike Hardy]

Hi Wolston, looking at your pics - have you glued the sides to F1 and F1A before fully attaching the sides to F2?

Mike.

[WolstonFlyer]

Hi Mike

I glued the lower 25mm of F2 and F3 to get the fuselage together and square, I then fully glued F1 in place to get the end of the nose the correct shape, then I slid F1a down into place through slots in the top triangle stock with the edges covered in epoxy. I have then pulled the sides into F2 and F3 and glued with Epoxy.

It was all a bit of a fiddly job but has worked in the end.

One point I would make about the shape of F1a from Phil's drawing.

You will want to taper F1a a little bit at the top so it is similar to the shape of F2. My F1a is square as in Phil's drawing but then pulling the sides into F2 means I have a litle bit of a "wiggle" in the fuselage side, the pisition of F1a has parallel sides and F2 tapers.

I am hoping I can sand and shape out the "wiggle" in the sides once I get the top sheeting on and do some careful sanding.

Edited By WolstonFlyer on 11/03/2013 14:35:54

[Mike Hardy]

Thanks Wolston for the tip re F1A, Did you fit the motor mount to F1A before gluing and afterwards accessing motor mount to motor through the large hole in F2. What did you use for screws - motor mount to F1A - M3 or M4? I suppose F1A needs to be thick enough to take the 'wing nuts'?

Mike.

[WolstonFlyer]

Hi Mike

The hole in F1 is just big enough to get the metal X mount in and out but not attached to the motor.

I installed everything dry with the motor X mount and motor and made some locating marks once the motor was at the correct 3 degrees, then I took it all apart again and glued F1a in position with epoxy without the X mount attached.

My F1a is 2 x 3mm ply epoxied together, this gives enough thickness for the T nuts to fit into with their spikes gripping into the wood. I used 3mm Socket Head bolts and "T" Nuts from SLEC

Once F1a is glued into place, I can put the X mount through the big hole in F1 and then using a long allen key I can bolt the X mount to F1a. Then pass the motor through the front of F1 and using the large hole in F2 I can install the machine screws through the X mount into the back of the motor.

It is all a bit fiddly for my large hands but everything does fit together and it feels like quite a strong front end.

I am going to install some thin ply doublers behind F1a up to F2 as well just to stop it getting pushed back when I bump the nose (notice I say "when" )

Edited By WolstonFlyer on 11/03/2013 15:39:59

[WolstonFlyer]

While all of the other glued parts are drying I have made up the horizontal stabiliser, I have used some square hardwood for the joiner rather than dowel as mentioned in the plan.

I seem to have lots of bits of aeroplane spread all over the kitchen while I wait for glue to dry. This might be a good time to start tidying up before my wife gets home with the kids

 

Edited By WolstonFlyer on 11/03/2013 15:49:28

[Mike Hardy]

Thanks Wolston, Mike.

[Colin Leighfield]

It's interesting watching everyone's angle on the fine points of putting this together, basically I stuck to the original line as described in the 2003 build article. I accepted a lot of work with the sandling block to flatten off the top of the modified triangular sections, but it didn't take too long. Overall this has gone together reasonably well and the wood quality in my pack was quite good. The fuselage sides were excellent, firm and springy without being heavy. The wing pieces were just right and gave me a good balance side to side without any special measures. Clearly though I've been luckier than some.

I decided to retro fit the birch ply doublers, although because of the already built condition, they're limited to the area between F2 andF3. I'm not concerned about that though, it looks tough enough up front. However, I've decided not to deliberately weaken it by putting a motor hatch in there. There shouldn't be any need for routine access, everything's working and the prop's turning in the right direction, so if I ever do need to go in I'll cut it open, it's dead easy to do a reasonably invisible patch later.

I've used push rods rather than snakes for rudder and elevator and they've worked out fine. As I think I mentioned before I've done the ailerons exactly as shown on the plan and the two receivers with all three servos are in the rear fuselage. There's plenty of scope up front to use the batteries to fine tune the cg. I've got 3S2200 and 3000, so there will be marked positions for each to allow for the different weights.

I'm working on the cockpit now, with the pilots and seat mouldings from Vortex Vac-Forms, though I'm not getting too carried away with fine detail! Apart from that it's ready for covering and painting, should be on the way with that this week. Strewth, I might even have to fly it fairly soon! Where's the smelling salts?

[Geoff S]

Posted by WolstonFlyer on 11/03/2013 15:37:38:

My F1a is 2 x 3mm ply epoxied together, this gives enough thickness for the T nuts to fit into with their spikes gripping into the wood. I used 3mm Socket Head bolts and "T" Nuts from SLEC

I wish I'd done that in retrospect. The nuts are very fiddly to get into place. F1a certainly needs a bit of shaping at the top to get the line of the nose right.

I don't know how you manage working in the kitchen. I have enough problems with dust and shavings in my workshop and SWMBO isn't too keen on my treading it into the lounge carpet when I emerge from my man-cave Though she is very supportive and tolerant of my hobbies as I am of hers.

btw I posted a picture of my workshop in the appropriate section a few days ago.

Geoff

[WolstonFlyer]

Hi Geoff, I tend to work in the kitchen either very late in the evening when the rest of the house is in bed (but I have to be quiet) or like today I have taken a day off work to get some builfing done.

I just got tidied and cleaned up in time, half an hour earlier and there would have been trouble, my wife puts up with my planes (just about) because she me.

Edited By WolstonFlyer on 11/03/2013 17:07:21

[WolstonFlyer]

After a bit of shaping of the rear deck it is starting to look like a plane, quite amazing that all of the parts actually look like they will fit together (phew).

I think this is the most complicated bit of woodwork I have ever done and that includes building the roof over the kitchen that I am sat in right now.

This mass build idea is great, I really have caught the building bug, I think the Jemima vintage model will be my next one (If I can find somewhere in the house to store a wing that big).

Still lots to do.

[Phil Winks]

Joinery and carpentry James two branches of my trade and its surprising how many can do one but not the other, Till they try, as your finding out. Nice job

Phil