Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Looking at the many 1000's of pics found on Google of the Stampe, it looks to me as though the front end is metal sheeted and the rear open structure is fabric covered along with the wings and tail feathers. Can anybody clarify this? If this is the case I am seriously thinking about litho plating the front and solartexing the rear end, how would I go about this and how would i produce a fairly seamless transition between the two different materials? And what sort of paints would or should I use on them both? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 hi Dylan I am not up on the Stampe, but thought it was all fabric apart from some removable panels, hatches and cowls. I built my Hurricane by covering the fus including the forward sections, then layed lith over the top. lith adds virtually no strength. If you do it this way then just spray the lith parts with an etch primer then the entire model with your paint of choice. cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 Cheers Danny Yeah I thought the same all fabric, but on a lot of pics the front end looks very metallic, very glossy, I could do with seeing one in the flesh, but alas up ere in t'north there ain't none as I know of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Williams Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Try looking at the photos here David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 cheers captain, exlains a lot (i think) looks basically like a wooden box up front with outer skins of ply? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 What adhesive do you use to attach litho plate to, well basically anything? I prefer not to use contact adhesive if I can help it, but if I have to I suppose I have to lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Williams Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 I wish my memory was better - up until about 5 years ago I was working for an aircraft maintenance company where we did a lot of restoration and maintenance of vintage aircraft. One of the resident aircraft on the airfield was a Stampe, and I did a lot of work on it (and flew in it too). I think the plywood you can see in the photos forms the outer surface over the curved tops of the cockpits and forward section of the rear deck, but the inner cockpit lining on the sides and bottom below that. you can see fuselage stringers passing over this lining, and I believe the sides were fabric covered right up to the firewall. HTH David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 hi Dylan, I abrade the back of the lith with a foam sanding pad, I also do the edges as paint doesnt tend to adhere well to sharp edges, anyway I then attach the panel with thick zap, and then pressing the edges down run thin zap in to make it firm. I had to remove a section once and it ripped the underlying covering off so no fear of it falling off. the front of the Hurricane is all ply covered, with fabric over that, then alloy panels and cowls etc same as the Stampe and Moths. cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 cheers yet again Danny and Slog Seriously thinking of also installing the same scale u/c as Cymaz has in his build, but that will slow thing down and I just want to get on with her now. Just going back to spraying, whats the best method of masking to get nice sharp edges with no under run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Getting a sharp edge with no bleed on a fabric covering such as Solartex is a tall order for a masking tape. I have however had great success with Tamiya tape, a bit more expensive, so I use it sparingly. I did the demarcation between red and white on my Triplane, worked really well. The airframe was covered in white Solartex and then Halfords rattle cans used for the red. I would suggest that if you dont want the hassle of getting the airbrush/panel gun out then Halfrauds is maybe the way to go? Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 26/01/2013 10:25:58 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 Looks like good results there Danny, I'll have to have a look out for some of the Tamiya tape. I was thinking of using rattle cans anyway as I dont actually have an airbrush, although I have been looking at one in my LMS. The design I am actually thinking of is Black overr White, and I have all the custom decals already done which have White in them, would I have to mask out the areas for the decals where they go over Black so that they have a White background to them? And once the decals and paint are applied, would the whole lot need laquering? or sealing in some way? Sorry about all the questions, but as this is my first attempt at a model like this, I would like to know I at least have the knowledge to try it, even if the initial results may need a bit of work lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 this may help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 sorry Dylan I didn't see your questions, thanks for bumping the post Cymaz. I wouldn't mask the area where the decals were going to go UNLESS the white of the decals was so opaque that the black underneath will show through. I doubt this will be the case if the material is of good qualty. I am afraid you will have to fuel proof the entire model if infernal combustion is your propulsion. I will bow to others knowledge here as I have been electric only for some time now. (Apart from the odd bit of diesel free flight). Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 great link by the way, some great detail shots. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted March 11, 2013 Author Share Posted March 11, 2013 cheers again guys cracking link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Tip with tape - spray first colour, mask up for second but spray the tape edge lightly with the first colour before doing the second. It seals the tape edge and any creep under the tape is the same colour... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted March 11, 2013 Author Share Posted March 11, 2013 cheers for that Martin, it is something I know about, but well worth the mention for anyone else who may be reading this and a virgin sprayer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 Ok the fuz is now pretty much covered, but there are little bits that require covering but you can't get an iron into, how do you deal with these bits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 Also I have left the cockpits uncovered, whats the best way to treat these? seal the wood and hand paint? this question also applies to the u/c fairing and the cobane fairings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 please can anyone advise on these issues? building has "stalled" again and I really want to get her to sparying stage a quickly as possible now, June is getting ever nearer and can't really afford another break. Thank kindly sirs and madams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Hi Dylan, I don't think I have ever had an area that I couldn't get the iron on to? What sort of iron are you using? I have a digital Prolux and it seems to get in most places. The undercariage and strut fairings can all be covered in solartex. Can you post a picture of one such area that you are having trouble with? As for exposed areas, the wood will need to be sealed. On the full size the wooden areas at the front are covered in fabric, just as the open rear structure, so you can solartex straight over it. If the wood is ply then you may need to use something like Balsaloc to get good adhesion. Hope that helps? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Oh Lord, now I'm worried.....I'm using natural solartex and getting an car spayer man to paint over the top of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Why so? I am sure he will do a great job.... as long as he places the emphasis on weight and not finish I have had great success with halfrauds rattle cans over Solartex, why don't you want to do it yourself? The struts and cabanes on this i think were coated in AeroKote to seal them Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Just had my paint man round. He kept on about added weight to the airframe because of the risk of adding too much paint, sounds like he knows his stuff. Here are some pictures for you lot...Dylan in particular Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 Hi Dan, I am also using a prolux iron, but you can actually see one of the problem ares in one of Cymaz's pics, the tail assembly. the rudder post comes down further than the rudder and basically gets in the way of the stabilser trailing edge, and this wasn't covered before fitting, basically the gap is just too small to fit an iron in. Also under the leading edge of the rudder where it meets the fux has a bit of a recess and i dont seem to be able to make a very clean job of covering as again the iron won't fit into this tiny gap. It is covered now but the wood is exposed withing the gap. The cockpit areas havn't been covered in oratex, and I don't really want to, I would rather paint them as they are as Cymaz has done, just not sure what to seal with before painting. Also noticed in your pics Cymaz you have 2 extra cabine struts that come down between the main cobanes and fit to the top of the fuz, these are not included in my plans, are these a retro fit? I have seen them in pics of the real thing and thought about putting then in, you also seem to have wing fairings on the fuz, again not shown on my plan? how did you make these? they look so much nice than the hard line of wing against fuz. I was thinking of doing something similar around the rudder to hide this gastly gap. As for the cabanes and u/c fairings i want to paint them the same coloiuyr as the airframe but I wanted to let the woodgrain come through, so don't really want to cover in tex. Also in my enthusiasm in getting it covered I have fortten to fit the ply plate into the tail end to take the tail wheel, this is all now covered and I don't really want to strip it all to get in there, any ideas? Real sorry about all these questions but this is my first scale attempt and I want to get it to look as good as I can get it with my limited knowledge and skills and I really do appreciate everyones help thus far and those cracking pics Cymaz, a real help, and she does look a beauty, puts mine to shame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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