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Stampe refurbishment and restoration - Rothmans colours


cymaz
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Havn't even looked at the cowl yet, thanks for pics though Cymaz. Been back in the spray booth today and have to say getting rather frustrated, runs, pulls, knocks, and even though the whole thing has been sealed, the paint will just not take to the cockpit areas and it looks a mess!

My interplane struts are just a joke, well one is anyway.

Who invented this piggin hobby??!!

Right, rant over, back to the booth.

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Ok...Update

The cooling baffles I put in were ineffective, believe me I might as well not bothered. So a very long and helpful phonecall to Laser Engines and the cooling is totally redsigned.

Old tin cans were used as this makes a really good cheap sheet metal,(PLEASE REMOVE CONTENTS FIRST BEFORE CUTING OPEN THE TINwink 2)

The baffling now starts at the front of the engine and continues passed the engine to the carb about 3mm off the finning. The top is as close as you can running along to the exhaust. Hope the pictures help...

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Laser will be soon updating their website and will be posting cooling-baffling ideas and methods that work. Hopefully this will!!!

The front cowl will get extra baffling to direct more onto the engine face.

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  • 6 months later...
  • 11 months later...

After flying the Rothmans for 2 years it had a bit of a mishap a few weeks ago. The fuel system lost pressure because the tap that fed the pressure from the top of the exhaust fell out. This caused the engine to go sick. The plane had a rather heavy landing into the grass and the U/C was badly damaged.

Luckily that was the only damage. I have a new Flair one on order from Bekra Models. Hopefully it won't be too long. The other modification that will be done is to replace the Laser150 for an Evo 33gx, when funds allow.

I expect some people will raise an eyebrow or three about swapping out a Laser. Well, I already have another Evo33gx and also a Zenoah g38 so they will all use the same petrol mix. I hope to slowly move most of my fleet to petrol over a few years. It's cheaper, easier to purchase, less mess. 

Edited By cymaz on 03/01/2015 23:19:32

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  • 3 weeks later...

Flair u/c kit arrived from Bekra today. £54 with postage, not bad I think. Though there are no compression springs.

Anyhow, I have lots of springs so no big deal. There is some soldering ect. to do. It is not as complete as the Tiger Moth undercarriage from Falcon Models...but it's not as expensive either.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Well , sorry for the delay! Not a few weeks more like nearly 3 months.

Anyhow...the legs were silver soldered and wheels fixed on. There wasn't enough room for all the collets I needed so I soft soldered some brass tubing on to the end of the axle.

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Now I DO recommend drinking Monster Energy Drink, (well I get the boy to do it). The reason is not that it tastes niceface 21 but that it make superb hub caps!!!!!party. The dome on the inside of the can and the ali is very easy to work.

I trimmed between the base and the bottom of the black paint. Then beat the rim flat. I you can trim the edges better than me - great. I didn't do a 100% job. The hub caps will be painted soon with dark blue Solarlac to match.

I will do the same in the future with Stampe C-FXME.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

The new 33gx arrived on Friday. Got to do a trail fit....it disappears totally and will only require minor surgery and the minimum of cuts to get it in.

I may need to put extensions on to get the exhaust away from the plane. Pictures now photo smiley

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Below, you can see what I will need to cut away from the bottom of the fuselage. The entire exhaust fits in the cowl.

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Below you can just see how little was cut away from the cowl frame upright. This frame is only used to screw the engine cowling to, so carries no real weight.

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Below, there was minor trimming on the engine bearers...

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Ran up the engine for the first time today and started to break it in. Took a while to get the fuel up. Used the starter to draw fuel. After that choked it well and two flicks it burst into life. First tank, according to the book, is run 1 1/2 turns rich. 1 minute half throttle, 1 min idle.

16 mins to empty tank, compression coming along nicely. I used the standard exhaust from my 20 gx to run on the 33gx, the correct exhaust was too tight a fit inside the firewall. The only mod was to drill out the screws holes by 1/2mm each and squeeze the can to stop it hitting the rear of the cylinder. Doesn't seem to trouble the motor at all.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update.....

Attached the wings for a first fit since it went inangry!....Anyhow, also needed to put everything together to test the new Flair u/c. All went well.

Took all the lead out of the nose, even the stuff that was hidden under the paint. So all the weight now upfront is useful ( bigger heavier engine and two batteries ). The Svenson plan is on Outerzone Plan.

The next flight will be with the front cowl off to give more air over the engine. Can't do it this weekend, going to BoardMasters in Newquay and seeing Seasick Steve...yessssssyes

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Right...all finished

I decided it night be prudent to have some nose weight, having done the balance check it was level. Ummm, having nearly wrecking the other Stampe because of c of g issues I thought it best. Batteries wrapped and fixed in. Choke lever installed.

Just waiting for good weather....that'll be the day !

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Update....

Great day yeslaugh

The engine was run as per manual. The 20cc exhaust works well and the high temp silicone extensions make some difference to the muffling. 83dB at 7 meters, bearing in mind the muffler box is fully enclosed in the cowl. The engine baffling seems to work ,the crankcase is not too warm ,checking it straight after landing. Xoar 20x8 beech prop. High speed needle was leaned out . Flying it again Sunday to use up all the 20:1

The c of g is ok . The Flair undercarriage has just enough give with no bad rebound on landing.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

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