Hannes Koekemoer Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Finally done! All I have to do now is the maiden. Here follows a few pictures, as you can see I loved Jim's colour scheme and decided to cover mine in almost the same way. It looks about the same (minus two windows, a different (removable) cowl and a little different landing gear.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andjo Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Hi Hannes, Looks great, good luck with your maiden flight. André Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Anderson Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Best of luck with the maiden Hannes. Looks like you've made an excellent job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowerman Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Hannes and all Jocasta builders who have yet to have their maidens. I hope they are as successful as mine. Its a great feeling when a model you have built from plans finally takes to the air. I have built about 26 and all but three flew well. Beats ARTFs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Koekemoer Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Thank you! The maiden will hopefully happen within a few months (almost time for exams). I will also see if I can find someone to help me trim it as it will be the first balsa model I will fly. But, until then it will be time to hit the books for a few weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 I'm curious to know how you guys that posted images have fitted a spinner onto the motor shaft. I have used an adapter so the motor is fitted in reverse, this how I interpreted the drawing, original 3/4mm shaft pointing to the rear. This leaves me with a 6mm threaded shaft onto which my spinner must fit So which spinner should I get, I've not seen anything whilst looking on the net.i can only think of the plastic type, with a backplate and two screws that pull,the two halves together. I would like one like on the photos of the planes on this blog. Regards, Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Oh the one on the photo is no use as it needs a tapped hole in the shaft, and there isn't one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caveman Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Glyn, it's probably easier to use a plastic spinner to begin with. They're readily available in all sizes and colours, and are quite cheap. The prop is fitted first, followed by the backplate, then the washer and prop nut. The spinner then is screwed on with two screws. See below: I know this is an IC motor but there's no difference Another type of spinner uses a metal backplate with a plastic spinner held on with two screws. A similar principle. The type of spinner which is in your photo has a central screw. This needs a prop nut/adaptor which replaces the standard prop nut and has the threaded central hole to take the fixing bolt. Note that whichever type you use you may have to ease the prop blade apertures such that the blades are not in contact with the backplate or spinner, depending on the type Hope this helps, GDB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Hi Caveman, I am aware of this type of spinner and it will do the job, but was advised that they are often a long way out of balance, I don't know whether this is true, or not. So I have tried to get the sort you suggest but in aluminium. Can't find such a beast. So probably will go with you. I am going to the Long Marston model show on Sunday so will see what I can find there. Cheers for your help Onwards and upwards. Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowerman Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Here is my method of hatch hinging with magnets taken from 'dead' brushless motors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Neat, but I think I'm far too clumsy for a covering hinge! I sorted my hatch, magnets and piece of tin can, and I had a spinner for the 6mm prop shaft, so that's sorted as well. I still can't see what the advantage is of reversing the motor, as per plan. Ok it protruded out further the other way but surely this just meant moving the former with the motor on it further back towards the tail, but what do I know. My fuse is finished electrics all in, control rods. I used Gold - N - Rod, very nice! Always gonna use them now. Just the wings to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Well spent all day building an outer wing section. I did not find it easy to decipher the plan in places. In fact, I would say I have struggled most of the time! This was compounded by the fact I cannot find the correct balsa, in the wood packs, to create the false L.E. ( 1" x 1/8" ), or the 1/2" sq. for the actual L.E. There is some for the false L.E. but nowhere near enough. I may be wrong about these sizes, as I cannot find a note on the plan, so these are my own measurements taken from the drawing using a ruler. I shall purchase some soon as. Anyway I feel that overall I'm improving my building skills all the time. Cheers to all, hope you have a nice weekend, too windy and wet here for flying! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Anderson Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 As I'm in the process of building a new wing, having crashed my Jocasta, I thought I'd do some checking within this thread. However, having gone through every post on this thread I couldn't find the answer I was seeking. The Jocasta is stated as having a 60" wingspan. However, measuring both the wing physically and the plan show it to actually be 69"! Measuring the two wing halves (from the plan) minus the centre section would still give a span of 65". So, should I make this new wing the same size as the old one (69" or should I make it 65"? Alternatively, should I shorten the the two outer panels so that the wing comes out as 60"? What was/is the wingspan of the original Jocasta? My first wing (at 69" only just fitted in my car. As I'm thinking of making this one flat or at least with reduced dihedral, it will be more difficult to fit it in my car (dihedral making the wing slightly shorter, tip to tip). Edited By Colin Anderson on 01/06/2015 01:23:58 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowerman Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 I doubt if loosing a few inches of the span would have much effect.Moving the tips in one rib would take 6" off the span. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Hi again, Time for me to ask for another build technique tip please. I have virtually finished one outer wing section, yep it's taken me a long time, but it looks ok. My question is where the top and bottom sheeting finishes inboard of the wing, there is the small step from the top of the balsa sheet to the ribs. When I get to the covering stage, what do I do? Ignore this step or do I try to shape it, I.e. Take off the edge with a chamfer or something. Ok that's it, and thanks, Regards, Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Anderson Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Hi Glyn, Have you put the cap strips on all the ribs, top and bottom? Also, by inboard of the wing, do you mean the root, where the two halves join the centre section? If so, then the sheeting extends back to the trailing edge (top and bottom), covering ribs R1B and R1. Could you post an image of the wing? 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Hi John, I feel really stupid now, of course it the cap strips! I've no excuse. As an old hand, second build, I should have realised. Apologies for being an idiot. Here is a photo, by the way do you know why many of my images, when posted get inverted ( rotated 180* ) so unless I use an third party app to invert, before posting they appear upside down! As this one is, sorry... Anyway here it is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Anderson Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Hi Glyn, I've no idea who John is, but never mind. 😊 Okay, cap strips. The top cap strips shouldn't be a problem; I presume you've got a step behind the leading edge sheeting and one at the other end, where the rib meets the trailing edge. However, what about the lower cap strips? Again, I guess you'll have a step behind the lower leading edge sheeting. But, as you've put the ribs in without the cap strips, have you got a step where the underside of the ribs meet the trailing edge? From your image it's clear that you have no cap strips at all. Regarding your images. Usually posted images will upload in the orientation that they are saved in. If you rotate an image within a program and upload it from that program it will still upload in the original format; unless of course you're using a program like Lightroom which can upload directly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Sorry Colin, no idea wher eJohn came from. On this iPad I cannot see the previous posts. Also figured out the photo inversion. It just depends which way up I hold the iPad. Whilst the orientation is always correct on here, not always the case in other applications. It won't be a problem from now on. You are spot on with the ribs, capping etc.i have to work out something as I do not have ant step where the ribs meet the trailing edge underside. I guess I should have used some dummy packing pieces to correctly position them before glueing! At least I've only built the one section. Many thanks I'm sure I'll sort with a bit of effort. Cheers, glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Anderson Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Hi Glyn, It's good that you've only built the one side! When you do your second side, lay out the lower sheeting and all capping strips, before adding your spars and ribs - you won't need packing. How to remedy the half you've already built: the outboard half of the wing shouldn't be a problem. You'll just need a capping strip to run along the length of the aileron hinge support; spanning R2, R3, R3, R4 and R2. I would think that, if you're very careful, you could probably cut the five ribs (the two inboard ribs have sheeting beneath them?) out of their slots in the trailing edge, fit the cap strips and reglue. That's how I'd do it. We all make mistakes. I'm in the process of making a new wing, following a crash. Yesterday, when I came to fit the leading edges I found that I'd cut them to the same length as the trailing edges! As they say, measure thrice, cut once! 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Yes indeed, gonna try that. I'm sure it won't be too bad a job. Best of luck with the wing. Thanks once again, Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Anderson Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Your welcome, Glyn. I've had lots of help on here. I'm only too glad that I can help someone else in a small way. Best of luck with your wing. Mine's nearly completed. I think I've made a better job of this one than the first one! Practice makes perfect! I've made this one with slightly less dihedral; it took me ages to work out the dihedral braces and the root rib angle! 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Hi Colin, Yes practice makes perfect. I have jiggered mine somewhat now, the capping is on, except one piece: What did you do about the slotted ply through which the servo arm protrudes ? I'm just thinking about the covering. It seems to me it will be very hard to get a neat job done when it's in place with the arm in place, so I'm thinking of covering it now, before I fit the servo, and putting it (them) to one side until needed. I'm just not sure, even then, how to get a nice neat finish around that small slot. My iron certainly won't fit into it to secure the covering sheet. What did you, or all you others find to be the best and neatest solution? Have fun, Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Anderson Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Hi Glyn, Yes, I covered my slotted servo plates without the servos in place. As the plates are quite thin it's just possible to get the pointed end into the slot and secure the edges; that's what I did. When it came to covering the wing I did so without the servo plates in situ, in order to the covering around the edges of the hole. Once the servo plate is screwed back in place this provides this provides a nice neat solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Ok, glad I got ahead of the game, makes a nice change for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.