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Advice needed for Robart Hinge points


Robert Parker
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Hi all,

I really would appriciate some advice on how to fit these hinges without gluing the actual hinge.

I have tried them before in the past but ended up cutting them out.

But now, I am determind to use them for the flaps on my Topflight P40 Warhawk which I am now at covering stage (tissue and dope).

Any suggestions.

Regards

Robert

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PVA is good for many hinges but I wouldn't recommend it for Robarts. The Robarts pin hinge arm has sort of "serrations" along the length, you really need a mechanical lock to hold these in. So you don't so much "glue" the hinge in as allow a blob of epoxy to form around them that jams/traps them in. They would have to break break that (or pull it away from the wood) to come out The glue is stuck to the wood, but the holding of the hinge is basically a mechanical inter locking if you see what I mean smile

BEB

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I use aliphatic glue with a little vaseline on the hinge, it takes a lot longer than epoxy for the glue to set and gives you a change to line them properly - and it's more than strong enough.

When you fit them bend them to as near 90 deg as you can get, that way it's easier to see if they are in the correct orientation. As others have said fit to one surface and leave 24hrs before attaching the other.

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I drill the holes fit the hinges and put the control surface in place. Check the alignment, shim with bits of balsa, once correct shims are glued in with PVA. Then use an instrument screw driver to spread a little Vaseline in and around the moving part, put plenty of epoxy in the hole and wet the ridged part of the hinge with a film of epoxy. Push the hinge in and wipe away any epoxy that leaks out with kitchen paper towel.

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What I find works excellently with hinges is to fold them double, and dip the pivot in hot candle wax (I use one of those tea candles) and then lay them flat on a piece of paper to set. I then stick them in with cyano or epoxy; epoxy is easier wit the robart ones. Leave the epoxy to set to the rubbery stage and pick off the excess. The hinges free off with a bit of wiggling to get the wax loose.

I use a hole drilling guide that works with an xacto knife handle, it's ancient, but like me it works fairly well.

Last time I did this I knocked the tea candle onto the floor.... so its not foolproof!

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The drill jig mentioned above is great, but don't assume that all of the hinge-points should be exactly half-way up the thickness of the wood. If the front edge of the ailerons runs at an angle to the spar, for example, then the front edge of the aileron will be slightly curved and the hinge-line won't be half-way up at all points. Make sure you use a steel rule and work out where your hinge-line will be before you drill.

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