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That's ok Erfolg, the Pushy Cat is a quick build so we'll have more time to get on with other projects. I wanted to support the mass build again, but didn't want the other offerings enough to give them any priority in building time.

I think the PC is worth having and in the event of a disaster, it might be possible to make a replacement in time for Greenacres! It should also leave you enough time to make progress with your Natter!

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Hi

i am toying with the idea of joining in the mass build, I haven't built before and think I am probably biting off more than I can chew, but I have to start somewhere and a mass build seems like a good starting point with plenty of information from others building the same model., also I have a lot of build experience at my club to tap into. I think I am going to attempt the Dawn Flyer as it looks cool.

Wish me luck I'm going to need it.

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Hi Darran.

Welcome to the madhouse ! You have made the right choice as dawn flyer is probably the easiest of the builds. Also it is a recent design, using "modern" construction methods. You don't have to worry, there are plenty of people out there with you (including the designer), so lots of help should you need it.

kevinb.

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Hi Darren there's little if anything to add to the previous 2 posts. so good luck mate and just go for it, get yourself into the dawn flyer clubhouse thread, pick an experienced builder or 2 and follow in their footsteps. The big commodity you'll need is patience everything else can be learnt ,and loads of fun had in the process

Phil

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Thanks for the comments. I know if I take my time and learn from my mistakes as I go along I will get there and learn a lot along the way. Besides it will give me something to aim for as I am still a beginner flyer training with my club on a trainer motivation to one day fly my own build.

I shall order the plans and give it a go.

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Hello All,

We have (by request) created a Dural U/C for the tinker by making a slight modification to the Barn 63 U/C cutting template. It will of course mean that the ply plate for the U/C will need to be reinforced a bit more into the fuz sides and preferably that plate should be extended forward enough to accommodate the width of the Dural.

Eddie

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Hello John,

The B 63 U/C will fit on as is to the Tinker Major, albeit 3 or 4mm slightly narrower than the fuz width at the top where it meets the fuz, but in reality a blind man on a flying horse would be very pleased to see that.

Yes, it is quite surprising to see that many of ours in the top 5 of the mass build. We had never heard of the mass build until this year, apparently it has been running for 4 years which is complete news to us (mushrooms come to mind!!!).

Such is life, Eddie.

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Posted by WolstonFlyer on 23/10/2013 12:20:55:
There are 6 models but the Tinker /Tyro are variations of the same basic design, so got grouped together by "the powers that be".

Great news about the Dural U/C Eddie

"Nah" the Tinker's a Bipe, the tyro's a Mono, looks a tad different when there's a wing missin, (sorry) "it just had to be said" Eddie. (None meant)

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Yes I will be fitting ailerons, it will give me a bit more control I feel. I found your link a few days ago and thought it interesting and agree I'll probably go for dual ailerons.

As part of the attempt to hide the link to each aileron I thought about stringing the wings with wire and magnets to give the impression of struts but it might also help to avoid inadvertant aileron flap if either wing wobbles.

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Posted by WolstonFlyer on 23/10/2013 13:01:55:

Eddie, can you give any other advice ? I am not sure between just ailerons on the lower wing or to have them on both wings and use link rods or use 4x 9g servos.

I have not done it on this, but from the obvious design performance of the aircraft in that it is designed to fly on R/E only, then it seems reasonable "& from experience of other aircraft" to simply reduce dihedral to about 3/4" & 1/2" respectively & fit barn door ailerons to the lower wings only.

The only aircraft (bipes) that I know of with 4 ailerons, are WW1 fighters & stunt planes to give them fast & furious agility in the air, the tinker is a tad more sedate so lower ailerons only will suffice.

Link rods or separate servo's are OK, just personal choice.

Eddie.

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Posted by John F on 23/10/2013 13:59:47:

Point taken, single ailerons only.

Shouldn't you be cutting out my ribs Eddie? wink

Edited By John F on 23/10/2013 14:00:35

How can I possibly know that when you are only cranking the handle of (John F) on the forum with no other ID? if you have ordered them they have been cut & sent, can't be more specific than that.

Eddie.

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Posted by John F on 23/10/2013 14:55:11:

Ha ha Eddie, only joking, I have no doubt that you're working hard.

I'm at RAF Henlow if you're left wondering.

AHa, The mud finally clears & settles to the bottom, Yep' its all on it's way. It is a bit ard ter work out Ooos Oo from the andles beein cranked on ere, so yerl ave ter fergiv us if we seems like we're in the dark.

Eddie.

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Posted by WolstonFlyer on 23/10/2013 18:54:53:
Thanks Eddie, so just to check. 3/4" dihedral on the bottom wing and 1/2" on the top wing? Is that under each wing tip or with one wing flat on the workbench. . Sorry I am not an experienced model builder!

OK, this is fairly simple & straght forward when dealing with parrallel chord wings. Always imagine dihedral as the distance under each wingtip (both tips propped up) or even imagine a wing laying inverted on the bench and the gap between the bench & the centre will be the same as what each wingtip would be propped up by.

Eg, 3/4" under each tip (the right way up) will equate to 3/4" gap under the centre inverted, does that make sense?

Eddie.

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