Jump to content

Deagostini Spitfire engine issues


Tom Flynn 1
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi modellers

Having read so many Deagostini Spitfire reviews, some good, some bad I thought I would have a go at building one as a winter project. So I bought a half started plane, which I am happily building at the moment.

I was slowly reading my way through the building instructions which I was happy with until I got to the engine bit, which I thought I would add an OS 46AX to the build, as I have just bought one. BUT how do I get over the extension to the exhaust issue. OS appear to only sell 12 mm lengths, so can one of the many who have reach the same stage as me please help me out. Needless to say I do not have a LEO engine, and really don,t want one,

Thanks

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Advert


Hi Tom . It will help by turning the engine but you may still have to make a space for the exhaust in the fuselage where it meet the firewall . It should be simple during the building stage . Fit engine to firewall and make sure the thrust line is correct . Now fit your engine and tape up all the apertures with masking tape so as to stop saw dust from entering. Hold your exhaust in place and mark the area where the exhaust will foul the fus . With a dremel remove the fus skin and firewall until you have clearance for you silencer exhaust. Now shape a balsa block large enough to accommodate the exhaust and fit inside the fus over-laping the hole by about 1/2 inch all round. When happy with fit glue firmly to the firewall and fus skin . When dry simply grind out the balsa block with a dremel using a sanding drum or you could make a suitable sanding block with a peice of wood sanded to shape then gluing some sandpaper to it. Sand and remove the balsa block  until you have clearance for the silencer/exhaust.You should aim for about 3mm clearance to allow for vibration/movement. The balsa block once ground to shape can be hardened with cyano then sanded and finished. The De-Ag Spitfire flies very well and I have test flown quite a few now . The common problem with all of them is the aileron torque rod. They are prone to twisting and blow back during flight making roll response very poor.Simple to rectify during building by fitting a servo in each wing near the inboard end of the ailerons with a short push-rod.

 

Hope this helps

Edited By Engine Doctor on 20/10/2013 12:30:47

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have one of these models that I bought during a moment of madness. I still haven't got round to final finish. I think I am going to hack the wings to bits and install retracts too.

In relation to the engine, I would not install the freebie that comes with the magazine, nor will I install the radio gear or servos that came free with the magazine. I would just not trust any of it to be good quality.

I would suggest you do the same Tom as I am sure the last thing you want after spending a winter building, is the whole thing to give up mid-flight and you end up taking everything home in a black plastic bag.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Jeff

we have had a few down the field, and what is clear is not to trust the radio gear supplied. I was going to use my futaba gear, from another plane. Also I was going to fit a servo in each wing, and bend the undercarriage forward as these seem to nose over.

From the weather for the next week or so I should move forward quite a bit.

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...