Jump to content

Kev`s Dawn Flyer Build.


Kevin Fairgrieve
 Share

Recommended Posts

So if you read my Mini Jazz blogg you will know I like to get acquainted with the plan and build article.

So the plan was removed from the "library" RCM&E July 2013 and the build article printed out from the subscriber area here.

001 plan and article (1).jpg

001 plan and article (2).jpg

After work tomorrow I will pop along to the local copy shop and get a set of working plans done. I usually do this as it allows me to return the relevant issue back into the library. Something else I am going to try to get them to do is to print one copy of the wing in reverse. Should make building just that little bit easier.

Kev

 

Edited By Kevin Fairgrieve on 26/01/2014 15:11:45

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My next consideration is the electrics. I have never built an electric plane before so there is a very steep learning curve here.

By looking through the other build blogg`s I came up with the following as a potential power train.

Motor. Turnigy D3530/14 1100KV Brushless Outrunner Motor.

Speed Controller. TURNIGY Plush 40amp Speed Controller.

LiPo`s. Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack.

Seems I was not to far off the mark only needing to substitute the Speed Controller to this one.

Speed Controller. TURNIGY Plush 30amp Speed Controller

 

Kev

 

Edited By Kevin Fairgrieve on 26/01/2014 15:52:44

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is exactly the set-up I used originally, it gives you approximately 250 to 280 W. I had to change for 2 reasons. First the plush 40 was broken - so I replaced it by a 45A type and second as I had to order at HK anyway I took a bigger engine as the centre of gravity was too far back. So I am now on a 35/42 1000kv.

So I suppose it is the right set-up who have selected. Try to build the rear part as light as possible to reduce the necessary balance weight in the front.

leave the 40A speed controller, The weight doesn't disturb for the reason of COG.

VA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes I agree with VA go with a 40A Kevin - it can't hurt to have a bit of extra headroom. Andrew's test on this system over on the Club House cited currents over 30A.

If you can't get the wing plan reversed it really isn't a problem on this one as the ribs are equi-spaced so you can easily plan the second wing over the plan of the first one - with just the ends reversed.

BEB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So for the princely sum of £6.20 I now have two sets of plans to work from. I am quite fussy when I get them copied and take my ruler with me to check against the original.cool

My local copy shop were unable to do a reverse image of the wing so will go with BEB`s suggestion.

002 plan copied.jpg

40A ESC it is then.

And now to the HK website to order my goodies. looking at the other blogs I am going to need the motor to ascertain the position of F1 and F1A.

I will however make a start on cutting out the formers and suchlike.

Surprisingly I seem not to have any 1/4" (sorry for the imperial reference but I still work in imperial. 6mm means nowt to an old one like me) wood in stock. Well I do have a few bits but nowhere near enough, so I guess this Friday will see me off to SLEC for the wood.

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Despite not having any 1/4" sheet to make a real start there are still lots to be getting on with.

Today I cut all the formers and the battery hatch from 1/8th light ply.

Going to try and do a little each day.

003 formers (1).jpg

003 formers (2).jpg

I have left the paper on F8 and have also not cut the 1/4 notch for the spine. It is a really tiny former and I have no desire to make another.

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Order placed with HK for the motor, speed controller and a couple of battery`s two days ago.

Great service less than 48 hours later here they are.

Ohhhh shiny.

004 power train.jpg

As you can see I went for the 40A ESC in the end.

Soldered some bullet connectors onto the ESC plugged it all in and it works!!! Easy stuff this electric lark.

Obviously I bound a RX to the TX to test it all.

The observant amongst you will note that there is no XT60 battery connector on the ESC. Please do not try to run the rig with the wires just inserted into the battery pack!!!!wink.

I have a City and Guilds 224 Parts 1 and 2 (TV and Radio servicing), so I know that it was very silly of me to do this. I will not do it again and nor should you.

Now to order some proper connectors, Why did I not order them with this?

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kevin,

about the XT60 - I think you have all on your shopping list - nothing else. In case the new connectors are difficult to connect (and only then) try to remove the burr which may be on the edges of the brass parts with very fine abrasive paper. 800 or finer.

While building the fuselage - try to avoid the problem some of us had - the width of the former 4 on the end of the fuselage was to narrow. It may be a problem of the material set only - but it may also be a problem of the plan itself.

Check it before you put the fuselage together.

VA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I have been to SLEC and have returned with a few goodies. Needed a few other bits but the main reason was to get some 1/4 sheet. I do like to be able to go into the mill and choose my own wood. I grade it and select it fo each build.

8 sheets of 1/4 should see this one through.

007 wood and strip (1).jpg

Dropped into the local (25 miles away) DIY centre and chose my stain.

15 minutes after getting home 1 sheet of 1/4 has been turned into 12 1/4x1/4 strip and 1 3/4x1/4. Saved me about £2.00.

One of the best investments I made is my SLEC balsa stripper.

007 wood and strip (2).jpg

Another sheet should see me have the wood cut for the tail end.

Kev

Edited By Kevin Fairgrieve on 31/01/2014 15:09:18

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 27/01/2014 18:52:08:

You need a goodly amount of the 6mm sheet Kev - as well as the sides, a lot of the fuselage rear structure and the wing spars are all made from 6x6mm - you might as well set your balsa stripper to that now - I seemed to be for ever producing more 6mm sq for this one! smile

BEB

The requirement for 1/4 is vastly more than I thought!!

Any way this is the result of today`s efforts. All being left overnight to set. Then onto the shaping stage tomorrow.

009 tail end construction  (6).jpg

All joints good and solid.

009 tail end construction (3).jpg

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted by Tony Bennett on 31/01/2014 21:15:34:

looking very good sir.

 

going to be a nice model when finished.

Thanks Tony, it is indeed I hope going to be nice.

After an abortive early morning at the field, some more done to the tail.

Just a rough shaping and sanding to make it look good. I will do the final profiling and sand nearer to covering. Hanger rash is guaranteed to strike if I do.

You may also notice that I have left the two elevator halves joined. Only one piece to mislay and makes sure I align them when I add the wire joiner.

010 tail section completed.jpg

Kev

Edited By Kevin Fairgrieve on 01/02/2014 12:39:48

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cut the sides out.

011 sides.jpg

And then started to fit the formers.

First FC.

 

013 fitting formers (1).jpg

Then F3.

013 fitting formers (2).jpg

And then F4.

013 fitting formers (3).jpg

F4 is between the battery`s honest.

Why no F2? Well I wanted to mount the motor on F2 and then check the length with prop and adaptor on. Gave me a good indication of where F2 needed to be.

But before that I had to fix the motor to its mount.

012 motor.jpg

 

Kev

Edited By Kevin Fairgrieve on 02/02/2014 16:21:49

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whilst waiting for the glue to dry. I use aliphatic and avoid CA wherever possible, I do not sit idle.

With the aid of a second bench I do this.

014 ribs cut out..jpg

Cut a set of ribs, plus a few extra, well you never know.

And made a start on this.

0015 rear frame (1).jpg

0015 rear frame (2).jpg

Not going to go into a blow by blow as it is just a stick and cross member construction. Nothing fancy, but did take me back a few years to when I used to build the Guillow`s kits.

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...