Danny Fenton Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 The issue with having piano wire legs that give and flex is made worse with the chippy as the trousers or shrouds fit against the wing. Any movement and they will break or damage the wing.CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nev Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Like john, I didn’t fancy drilling into the end of the oleo,s and fitting with a grub screw. Too many chances for a sloppy hole, a loose screw and a wobbly leg. If I were going the oleo route I would get longer ones and fix the stub into a block in the wing as has been suggested earlier but that’s extra work. I think any extra time I’ve got I would rather put into the detailing. I was contemplating a slightly thicker gauge, say 6 SWG, being less probe to bending and slot the wing skins where it exits, most of the slot would be hidden the shroud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I've asked Dylan about doing the instrument panels for the Chipmunk and he said he will if I send him the drawings. He also said that if anyone else on the thread is interested, he would do them for a special price. Is anyone else interested? What he's done so far looks excellent, so I'm definitely going to ask him to do them for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Rothwell Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Count me in John, any thing to make life easy, after all it looks like we will spending the next year doing rivets......... see started all ready! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Stratton Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I like that idea too Colin so count me in for a pair please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexJ Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Me too please, Colin. It would be a very useful piece of the puzzle. On the subject of the undercarriage, I think i will stick with oleos mounted to piano wire stubs. Regards Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Yep me too, is there 1 or 2 off them?? whatever it takes Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 There's a front and a back one. It occurred to me that if I've got two really good looking instrument panels, voyeurs will be so impressed that they won't think to look for the rivets that I probably won't have bothered to do. I might be daft, but I'm not stupid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Yes, the answer to stopping the wire turning in the oleo is :- a, making sure that the flat that is filed/ground is "FLAT" and is on the correct angle b. don't use a grub screw, use a bolt/cap screw that is as big or slightly bigger than the wire diameter, file the end of the bolt flat, this then gives a greater area to grip the wire. when "tapping" the hole don't use a very fine thread, because it is too easy the strip, due to the depth of the thread, I use metric threads and have not had any problems. Hope that helps Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Yes Colin that is possibly the way I'll go, a tip for keeping the wire leg "locating flat", FLAT, when filing, is to clamp the wire in a vice with the amount to be removed protruding, file away until you are filing the top of ya vice .. easy hey Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Rothwell Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Posted by Davwik on 03/09/2014 22:21:15: Count me in Colin, any thing to make life easy, after all it looks like we will spending the next year doing rivets......... see started all ready! David I apologise for getting the wrong name, Edited By Davwik on 04/09/2014 07:11:26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I might be interested Colin but it would depend on the price. Any idea of the likely cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Mulhair Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Hi Colin, Can I be added to the expanding list for instrument panels. Thanks Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Hi Davwik, Nigel and Dennis. No idea of price yet except the more there are, the cheaper the unit cost will be. I'll try and get time tonight to send Dylan the information he needs and give him some idea of possible numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynton Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Hi Colin Please include me for a pair of instrument panels. I live in South Africa and have been following this thread with interest. I already have the plans, wood pack, canopy and cowl and wait with bated breath for the build to commence! Kind regards Lynton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Price 2 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I would also like to have a pair of instrument panels but this would rather depend on the price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 The instrument panels will consist of a front plate and a plain back plate, so you can sandwich in your own dials. I will etch the screws etc into the front plate as well as the dial surrounds positions, similiar to the Stampe one I have done below. For a pair of panels (front and rear cockpit) I guess at the moment would be around the £20 mark, less if I can get a decent number to do in one batch. Best thing to do is keep Colin informed and I can deal with him over it, better to deal with one person than dozens at a time. But I will keep an eye on the thread for any questions. If you do have any questions you can PM me by all means. Good luck with the builds guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbflyer Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I would like to have a couple of instrument panels if they are around the £20 mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Count me in too for the IPs then chaps! Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Is that £20 per panel or for both? Doh, sorry, just read Dylan's post properly. I'll got for 2 then please Colin. Edited By Nigel Day on 04/09/2014 16:27:35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 This is looking good chaps, Dylan will be going into mass production at this rate. We need to think about the dials though, haven't we seen something on those recently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 A set for me please. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Looks like I'm a little late for the instrument panel party, but I have a question. Looking at photos of a Chippy panel, I can see maybe 4 distinct levels in relief. Clearly there has to be a background, we might be able to stick a single sheet of printed dials over this, or individual ones. Then we need a sheet with dial cutouts in it, then a sheet of clear acetate, because the glass sits proud of the dials. Next would be another sheet with cutouts, and finally a separate bezel for each instrument, because these sit proud of the surface of the main panel. In fact, the glass of most of the instruments seems to be level or forward of the main panel. So, how is this normally done by the top scale guys on a model at our scale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Not too late at all Chris, I understand what you are saying here and I did think about the glazing problem, but tried to keep it simple for the sake of cost for the builders. To do 3 layers as you are talking about, would require using, thinner ply to start with, to avoid too much weight going in, and also 0.8 ply is a lot more expensive than 1.5mm which is what I was going to use giving a 3mm thick panel. Bezels I could etch in one piece on the front panel, but this takes time in both CAD and on the laser itself. I could certainly look into it for a more scale like finish if you want or anyone else for that matter but, bear in mind it will cost more, but I am very open to ideas and suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Good question Chris, for one thing many of the scale guys wouldn't do much as their is not many points to be had. However I will be using styrene sheet in a similar manner to what you have just outlined. sandwiching acetate and a phot of the dials. I will be removing the needles and adding them as thin styrene rod to give depth. Mad yes probably but they are fun to make. The bezels can be made by wrapping solder around a suitably sized tube, or you can cast bezels if it s complex cockpit. For the Chippy I will use the solder route. This is how ace builder Phil Clark tackled a Pfiel Arrow, or Do335. lots of cast bezels. So nothing against Dylans route I am sure they will look great, but not how I will try and do them. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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