.. Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Rich, if you use a servo disc & set the fittings at the correct distance apart you will be ok. The servo goes 180 degrees so will end up a mirror image of where it started. There is a bit ok a knack setting them up but it's quite simple. Do it with the wheels up & give the 2 rods a pull to allow for the movement for the wheel locking. Edited By Justin K on 02/05/2014 18:18:08 Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 03/05/2014 08:04:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 look on the tony nijhius site the build photo,s for the typhoon shows how it,s done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 Thanks, I found the whole process here: **LINK** That don't show that in the manual!! Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 Done and working! Easy when you know how - you have to trim the pushrods, and bend one of them. These ARTF planes are at least good for experience in certain parts of the construction/install process. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prop Nut Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 I must have been very lucky. The H9 P47 was my first model with retracts and I was prepared, from what I'd heard, for a struggle to get them working correctly. However, I just connected everything up and they worked perfectly first time, with no adjustment necessary. Maybe I should now be worried for next time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark a Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 I had to shorten the retract rods on mine. Just finished repairing mine after a dead stick crash these jugs are quite tough mine stalled in from about 10ft and only damage was to cowl wing leading edge and slight damage to firewall. Have re-engined mine with a ASP 120fs so going to re-check the c of g and then test fly it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 Yeah, once I knew what to do the setup was easy - no adjustment necessary so far. You can't fit per the manual using 180 degree servos - not without bending/cutting the linkages - that's for sure. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 Recommended control throws in the manual state figures up/down? Does that mean total travel, or for instance, 1/2 up and 1/2 down? Not very clear! Just ran the engine, nice easy starter! Nearly ready to maiden.... Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 After a little research I am guessing the stated throws are in each direction. I have tried to balance it and it seems to need about 16oz or 475g's in the nose! Is this normal? And I have a petrol engine up front... Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prop Nut Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Mine has an OS .91 Surpass with about 12 ozs in the nose to balance correctly. Not sure how much difference there is between the glow and petrol engines. The stated throws ARE in each direction; so aileron (low rate) is 1/2 inch up from neutral and 1/2 down from neutral - 1 inch movement from fully up to fully down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark a Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 With its short nose and if you have installed the elevator and rudder servos in the rear fuselage it will need a bit of weight up front. I fitted my flight battery's each side of the fuel tank which helped with the c of g. When you do fly it fly it smoothly and gently they don't like being chucked about like a sport plane. Mark. Edited By Mark a on 05/05/2014 15:00:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 Mmmm, the dle 20 is the best part of 28oz all up, but I guess i'm not far from your figures - it took a while to figure out how to do it but I have added 16oz to be on the safe side, and hopefully I'll be able to remove some. I have read that some are flying over 10lbs auw and fly great so weight doesn't appear to be an issue.. Thanks Rich ps yes, I have some rather heavy mg servos in the rear... pps just waiting for a nice evening for the maiden now.... Edited By Rich2 on 05/05/2014 15:14:43 Edited By Rich2 on 05/05/2014 15:15:37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrman Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 I've had my H9 P47 for a number of years with tail mounted servos, OS 91 pumped, with batteries (Rx & retract) mounted on servo plate as designed and do not need any nose weight. I wonder what may have changed to make so many needing nose weight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark a Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Posted by jrman on 05/05/2014 21:08:55: I've had my H9 P47 for a number of years with tail mounted servos, OS 91 pumped, with batteries (Rx & retract) mounted on servo plate as designed and do not need any nose weight. I wonder what may have changed to make so many needing nose weight? An interesting question indeed when I first built mine I fitted it out as you have and it was very tail heavy, now its got a 120 up front I will stick it on the c of g machine tomorrow and have a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 It is a mystery, a plane designed for 60 power and tail servos, needs a 1lb of lead on the nose with a dle 20 mounted up front!! Rich ps i'll maiden it and see what its like, if it needs that amount of lead, I'll look into converting it into useful weight - battery for the retracts or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 A few more photos, still to fix pilot, canopy and cowl (although maybe not before maiden!) Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 16, 2014 Author Share Posted May 16, 2014 I had the day off work yesterday and decided to mow the strip. The weather turned out to be so good I could not resist taking my (incomplete) P47 for its maiden. I ran a tank through, had some problems taxiing due to the grass still being too long, but flew she did. And she flies and sounds awesome - probably overpowered if I'm honest! Unfortunately, it nosed over on landing and broke the prop and cracked the tail- nothing not easily fixed. It occurred to me, is anyone running petrol engines without a filter? Also, I have a 1lb of lead up front, restrained with zip ties. this broke free on landing, is there a better way to secure? Cheers Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark a Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 My P47 has a ASP 120 four stroke in it but my Sbach has a JC28 petrol and I have an inline filter in the fuel feed line and the carb has its own filter in it as well. Not surprised you nosed over in that grass its a bit long, as for the lead you could try glueing it in once your happy with the balance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 I've just finished one of these myself but not yet flown it. I have an ASP 120FS up front and it balances exactly to spec 4.5 " back from LE at root without any lead. Where is your CG? Maybe a bit too far forward hence the nose over? The model looks to have a very safe thick wing (hence no flaps) so maybe some experimentation with its flying characteristics will permit some of the lead to come out. Edited By Cuban8 on 16/05/2014 12:29:54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 16, 2014 Author Share Posted May 16, 2014 Mine is pretty much bang on 4.5 as well. It felt pretty neutral - although climbs like a scalded cat when you open the throttle - as you say, I will have to experiment. It also dropped the left wing on take off.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomtom39 Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Hello Rich. I normally drill hole through the lead (strips/sheet which I fold) and screw into the fire wall. Or 8mm bolt (nice and heavy) from B & Q and epoxy the weights onto the side - nice quick fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 16, 2014 Author Share Posted May 16, 2014 Hi Taj, Mine must be another material - I tried drilling and got nowhere! It is an offcut from an old sash window weight ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 I don't use a filter Rich, Felt clunk does that job, you could buy a small car filter and fit to your fuel can also. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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