iqon Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 I`m partial to toffee, will it be ready on time.... p.s. i put tomatoes in mine...damn doors did not work...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 Tail pieces go together like a jigsaw - with all the pieces numbered for you! Very quick simple and impossible to get wrong. Edited By Gary Manuel on 10/04/2014 22:07:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Servo trays boxed in with balsa grain towards the tray to give the wing a bit of support. And sanded to fit. "Draw wire" taped out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Wing leading edge shaped. Servo draw wires re-routed to the root of the wing. Dihedral braces made up from two kit parts laminated together for strength. The angle is pre-set and the width matches the gap between the front and rear spars - hence the different size. Area between the spars marked out. And slots cut to accept the braces. The inner face of the slots are flush with the wing webs, giving a large surface area to glue to in addition to being wedged between the spars - should be pretty strong. Test fit of the dihedral braces - must remember to put them in the right way. Negative dihedral is not a good thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Full strength epoxy used to join the wing halves. Scrap balsa clamped to trailing edge to hold in alignment. They naturally aligned bang on anyway. Leading edge had a small gap but was easily filled with epoxy. Now that's what I call a wing. Wing tips still to be added. Left them off for now so that it will stand up on its own like this. Next to fit the wing locating tab into the wing and leave it to set. First, the wing is supported level (important to get each wing level for this bit). Packing used to position the locating tab level with the couple of dots I had previously marked on the leading edge, in line with the slots in the root ribs. A line is drawn to mark where the slot for the locating tab is to be cut. Slot cut and ready for the locating tab. Note that the slot is an extension of the slots in the root wing ribs. This shows how far the locating tab slides into the wing. It is pushed in as far as it will go. The pointed end of the tab sits in the bottom of the slots in the ribs, leaving about half an inch of tab sticking out of the wing. Locating tab glued in place. Edited By Gary Manuel on 12/04/2014 21:52:51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 This is where the locating tab locates into. A much better idea than the usual couple of circular dowels I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Looks well thought out kit Gary, very sturdy Hows it feel weight wise ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Wing bandage applied. In retrospect I would have applied the bandage before cutting the slot. Any pencil marks on the wing would still be visible through the bandage. This is OK - especially after trimming / sanding, but might have been better if the slot had been cut later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Posted by john stones 1 on 12/04/2014 21:58:16: Looks well thought out kit Gary, very sturdy Hows it feel weight wise ? Hi John, Not the lightest of builds, but then Massey Ferguson don't build their tractors light I think the weight is justified by its planned use as a tug / toffee bomber / general work-horse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Mundy Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 A Cracking build Gary, you've got to be pleased with that. i think the dusty colour scheme will be great too. well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Keep ploughing on Gary It looks like it'll be fun to fly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Now I'm making this bit up as I go along so it might not go as planned I want to reinforce the wing at the point it contacts the fuselage, so I'm adding a thin layer of fibre glass. Fuselage measures between 220mm (rear) and 230mm (front) at the wing. Allowing about 25mm each side, I cut a 280mm strip of fine glass cloth using a straight edge and a new number 11 scalpel blade on my sheet of glass. I then cut a 100mm (4 inch actually) slot corresponding to the wing locating tab in order to avoid the cloth joint on the leading edge. Cloth in place ready for wetting. Masking tape applied to give a neater edge. Epoxy applied by brush over the top of the cloth. Dabbed into place until it soaked through to the balsa underneath. Heat applied / smoothed over with a credit card a couple of times to remove surplus epoxy. There wasn't much cos' I'm tight I used Bob Smith 20min Finish Cure Epoxy, which is designed for the job. It's easy to sand and can be worked (with heat applied) for up to 2 hours. Looks ok to me. Just need to let it set with masking tape removed. Bulldog clips applied to keep the cloth at the trailing edge in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Posted by Roy Mundy on 12/04/2014 22:05:08: A Cracking build Gary, you've got to be pleased with that. i think the dusty colour scheme will be great too. well done Hi Roy, I am very pleased with it. It won't be a mad aerobatic model and I think the Dusty scheme will add a bit of "fun" to flying it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Posted by john stones 1 on 12/04/2014 22:10:37: Keep ploughing on Gary It looks like it'll be fun to fly Now there's a thought - If I attach a lawn mower to the back, it could save our club a fortune Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 After a bit of trimming and sanding, I attempted to fit the wing to the fuselage. Still a bit of trimming to go, but it's taking shape now. A balsa fillet behind the wing on the fuselage will sort that gap out. Side view. This is actually taken with plane and camera upside down on the stand. There is only gravity holding the wing on at the moment obviously. A bit of careful sanding should see a closer fit. I'll probably put wing seating tape on as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Time to add the flappy bits to the wing. This build has substantial ailerons and flaps. The ailerons are going to be centre hinged with top and bottom bevels to allow upward and downward movement. The flaps will be hinged near the lower edge of the trailing edge as they only need to move downwards, but by quite a large angle. Centre line and position of the ailerons marked (left). The flaps are marked 2mm from the top edge (right). Hinges throughout the model are to be Du-bro No. 257 Heavy Duty pinned hinges Last time I cut hinge slots, I was disapointed at the sharpness of the cutting edges on the slot cutting tool, which look like this: After 5 minutes with a Dremel / diamond grinding wheel, the edges are much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Trial fit of hinges into aileron and flap slots. Small bevel added to lower surface of the flaps. Probably not needed, but won't harm. No bevel needed above the hinge. Generous bevel sanded to top and bottom of the ailerons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Hinge blocks added to the required positions on the trailing edge. They are only needed for the ailerons. Sanded flush with the trailing edge, marked and cut, ready to take the aileron hinges. And the same for the flaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Trial fit of left aileron and flap. Hinges assembled and hinge edge lightly coated with Vaseline to hopefully, prevent the hinges being glued solid Hinges epoxied (full strength - slow cure) into flap, ready to be inserted into wing slots. Top of wing with all control surfaces in place. Hopefully, the vaseline will have done its job and I/ll be able to pull the pins out to split the hinges when the epoxy sets. Bottom of the wing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Now for the wing tips. Offcuts of 12mm stuck to the lite-ply wing tip former to form the basic leading edge shape And the trailing edge Sheeting added from the leading edge to the main spar position. A bit of bending was necessary here Edge triangle added for strength and after a bit of shaping the wing tips look like this I later added offcuts of balsa to the tip rib to fill in the oval hole and add strength to the tip former. Edited By Gary Manuel on 13/04/2014 08:46:28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Wings pretty much complete. Time to sort out the wing fixing. Remember earlier when I added a block of balsa inside the trailing edge at the wing bolt position? I drilled the 6mm holes (pilot drilled then increased in size) through the wing and into the wing bolt box in the fuselage. The holes through the wing are solid balsa, so it looks like I got my sums right The holes in the wing box were then drilled out to 8mm to accept the thick central part of the captive nuts This is a trick I always use for securing the captive nuts Use a ply washer, or make them up as here. I've made it 6mm thick by gluing 2 offcuts together. Mark the position of the captive nut spikes by pressing them into the washer Then drill them out with a 1.5mm drill. This helps the captive nut penetrate the ply washer without slipping, twisting or splitting the ply. Apply epoxy between the captive nut and ply washer - it shouldn't get into the thread because the central part of the captive nut is a close fit with the 8mm hole in the ply washer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 The epoxied captive nut / ply washer was then cyano'd to the under-side of the wing bolt box using the 8mm hole as a guide viewed from above. 6mm steel bolt with a couple of washers and oversize nuts prepared ready to pull the captive nuts into the washers. Bolt / washer / nut assembly screwed through the wing bolt box into the captive nut. Captive nut not pulled into the ply yet. Socket set used to tighten the bolt. Captive nut pulled into the ply. Epoxy will hold it there and is well clear of the threads.This technique works for undercarriage and engine mount captive nuts also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Now for the tail feathers: All tail components skinned on the remaining side and roughly sanded to shape. Slot cut in the fuselage to accept the stabiliser And then the rudder. The designer shows the rear former being cut as shown here to allow the rear surface of the tail fin to be level with the rear of the fuselage as shown in red (photo edited, not marked on the model!). If pushed in without doing anything it needs to be moved forwards by the thickness of the former (3mm). I think its a better idea to leave the rear former intact and to cut a piece out of the fin - like this. It might just cause a problem when it comes to placing the bottom hinge. We'll have to see later when I fit the rudder horn and steerable tail wheel assembly which will all fight for the same space. Edited By Gary Manuel on 13/04/2014 09:05:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Now that what I call a rear end! Just pushed in for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Right - as I said in my first posting, this build log has been transferred from my local club forum (I'm not that quick at building) This is where I got to so we are now going live. Edited By Gary Manuel on 13/04/2014 09:09:36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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