cymaz Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 I have used Modelmarkings.com , he is good. I've also used sticky car number plate numbers and letters. I've had some on for years and they show no sign of peeling off it is VERY strong glue....you've only one chance really with them. You could also try model car stickers! Oh and Pyramid Models. Look Edited By cymaz on 21/04/2014 06:55:25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 Wow - The skull and cross spanners was one of the stickers I wanted! I'll give those companies a looking at and get the S&CS ordered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iqon Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 there is a local company in DN2, will let you know when i remember name Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 Posted by iqon on 21/04/2014 09:06:05: there is a local company in DN2, will let you know when i remember name Thank you Mr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iqon Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Sorry it took so long, it`s an age thing you know flightlinegraphics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 Dusty needs some way of controlling him, so here goes...... Nice short Pete Tindal blue series controls all round - even matches Dusty's trim colour Note the steerable tail wheel assembly now fitted. JR591 servos used for the two elevator halves. Pete Tindal blue series pull-pull for the rudder. Cables look as if they are bending and rubbing on the fuselage side as they enter, but it's an optical illusion due to the tapered fuselage. Wire run is actually quite straight. Hitec HS5985MG servo inside the cockpit, used for the rudder. Edited By Gary Manuel on 22/04/2014 23:45:30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 Wing servos next, but first I need to extend the servo leads for the ailerons. The Flap leads reach the exit holes OK, so won't need extending. Extension leads soldered together to make up the required length and insulated with tape. And then tidied up / vibration proofed with heat shrink tubing. Hobbyking servo lead crimps. The crimps come on strips with the plastic surrounds separate: Note that there are two types of crimp / surround in the set. The female plug - as used on the end of the servo leads - These are the ones I'll be using: And the male receptacle - as used on the receiver / receiver extension leads - I won't be using these here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 These is the crimping tool I'll be using. This is what the dies look like And this is how the crimps need to be inserted before sliding the stripped wire in and squeezing. Not obvious to look at. The open end of the crimp goes into the concave die with the wire entering from the marked side. Wires crimped First one clicked into place and second one ready to be pushed in - note which way round they go, and which colours go where. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 Wing servos first fitted and roughly set up prior to radio fitment. All four servos are Hitec HS5925MG and fittings are Pete Tindal blue series. Ailerons with servo in approximately the centre position - servo arm at 90 degrees and aileron in the neutral position. Flap servo with servo in approximately in the centre position. For the benefit of anyone who doesn't know, flaps are set up differently to ailerons (and other) controls. The servo arm is fitted to the servo whilst in the centre position with the arm offset as shown and the flap partly operated. This is for two reasons: 1. The movement of the servo is from the neutral position downwards only, so this position is in the centre of its movement. 2. The servos holding strength is weakest when at 90 degrees to the push-rod and strongest when at a smaller angle. i.e. it would be impossible to turn the servo by pulling or pushing the rod with the servo arm in line with the rod (zero degrees) because there would be no turning moment. The flaps will have the maximum force (air flow) when at maximum deflection - this is when the small angle is used to effectively "lock" the servo in position. The 90 degree servo angle when the flap is in the neutral position is not an issue as the air force is low (similar to other control surfaces). Flap fully operated - servo at a narrow angle and flap fully deployed. Flap in the neutral position - servo in the 90 degree position (with the servo towards the end of it's movement). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 Servo lead cables exitting the wing. The short ones are the flaps. The trailing leads in the fuselage will have the flaps with the longest lead and the aileronns shorter, which will prevent incorrect connection as the aileron trailing leads won't reach the flap leads. Rubber grommets used at the exit. Prevents vibration damage, covering peeling away and also prevents the leads from sliding back inside the wing during transportation. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 Forgot to extend the rear mounted elevator servo leads. Done in the same way as the others. To avoid them flopping about in the fuselage, I like to make a lightweight paper tube to run them in. Just formed around a 12mm balsa dowel and cyano's along the length once dowel removed, to make a fairly strong tube. Tube runs the full length of the fuselage and exits in the cabin. Seen here with servo leads already run down the tube. Undercarriage and wheels fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 Spent a bit of time using my favourite free image editing software - "Paint.NET" to prepare a few images for making into stickers. The chequerboard represents transparent background. This last one saved me a bit of work - This was found on the web. Logo of the Jolly Wrenches club, apparently (whatever that is) - No copyright infringement intended if there is any. Full credit to the original designer. Edited By Gary Manuel on 23/04/2014 22:04:43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Your a man of many talents Gary Its a fair old depth on the u/c, what prop you using ? Like your wheels mate, bet they where expensive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 Prop will be something like a 23x8. With the undercarriage I have fitted, i don't think ground clearance will be a problem and touch n goes should be a breeze Wheels are perfect for the job and were a gift from a friend of mine who used to fly IC but appears to have gone electric - he says it's the future Edited By Gary Manuel on 23/04/2014 23:30:09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iqon Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 so how you doing your decals......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 I'll be sending the artwork off to a sticker printer. I can do black on clear but I can't do white on clear as I don't have any white ink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iqon Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Posted by Gary Manuel on 24/04/2014 00:06:51: I'll be sending the artwork off to a sticker printer. I can do black on clear but I can't do white on clear as I don't have any white ink. not using vinyl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Yes - will be gloss vinyl stickers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 26, 2014 Author Share Posted April 26, 2014 Stickers ordered. Time to start thinking about C of G and equipment positioning. I don't like adding lead, so I like to position equipment so that moving of batteries allows the full range of C o G to be achieved. Target C of G is 100mm to 107mm from the leading edge by my calculations, with a possibility of moving it back further depending on flight performance. With engine, exhaust, prop, spinner installed and the ignition unit, leads and ignition battery taped to the outside of the firewall I can achieve 100mm with the receiver batteries (yes 2 = true redundant dual battery system) just behind the firewall at the front of the engine / tank box and 107mm just by moving the receiver batteries to the rear of the enginge / tank box. Plenty of scope to move it even further just by moving the batteries. I'm confident that there will be no need for carrying lead. Proper fit planned for tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 That is good news, even though you have 2 batteries ( as I do with my petrol engines), i class them as useful weight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 28, 2014 Author Share Posted April 28, 2014 Started to fit the gear, starting with the pointy end after 3 coats of fuel proofer. The engine suddenly looks smaller I think. DLE55RA, Menz 23x8, 3 1/2 inch aluminium spinner. Ignition unit on heavy duty velcro with velcro straps. 2 cell 2000mAh LiFe battery held in place using velcro plus velcro straps. Front view - No need for extra cooling ducts. Cowl clearance as planned - about 3mm, with plenty of clearance all round in case I need to shift the thrust lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 28, 2014 Author Share Posted April 28, 2014 I have a 9 channel radio set, which I'll be using to the max: I will allocate the channels like this to allow trims with flaps applied to be mixed in to give neutral feel. 1 = Throttle 2 = Right Aileron 3 = Right Elevator 4 = Rudder 5 = Flaps 6 = Left Aileron 7 = Left Elevator 8 = Choke (might change to tow release later) 9 = Engine kill switch Channel 5 will need a Y-lead. Here's one I prepared earlier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iqon Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Dusty looks good.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Nice and tidy instal Gary Running motor before flight? could you get a tie wrap at right angle to Velcro strap ? Will vibrate like a good un whilst it on floor, and have you balanced prop and spinner ? if yes can I borrow your balancer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted April 28, 2014 Author Share Posted April 28, 2014 I can't get tie wrap at 90 degrees but might replace velcro ones with tie wrap depending on what it looks like on when running. I actually have a HK prop balance (and wattmeter) on order. I think I got the last one before they went onto backorder. I will loan it out at very reasonable rates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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