Futaba M6 Fr Sky 2.4 ghz DIY Conversion

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

Posted by Paul Luby on 02/06/2014 21:12:08:

Hi Chris

Great isn't it, having your old Waltron down the field again. Hope it caused a few raised eyebrows and questions.

You can connect one of these little fellas up to the FrSky DIY module and get telemetry for pennies.

http://www.t9hobbysport.com/frsky-lcdfld02-lite-screen

That'll cause a stir Chris, a Waltron with telemetry, whooooooooh.

It did indeed cause a lot of interest Paul.

As for the display, I'm in two minds about that. The Tx already does exactly what it did before so it is done.

On the other hand, that display would fit behind a secretly hinged Waltron badge - now that would be cool!

[Phil Green]

So the Taranis is redundant eh Chris?

 

Paul, see your PM's
Re the dipswitch, its handy how D2,3,4,5 are right next to a ground pin!

Edited By Phil Green on 03/06/2014 00:23:09

[DJC]

Hi Paul,

I have been following this thread with great interest, I have just converted my Sanwa vg400 to 2.4g using the defacto FrSky. Now looking to add channels and add bells and whistles using your Arduino project. So I am very keen to see your final your code. So I can see is I can break it down in to manageable chunks to add the functions as I get more familiar with Arduino code.

cheers

Dave C

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

Posted by Phil Green on 02/06/2014 23:35:11:

So the Taranis is redundant eh Chris?

er... not quite.

[Paul Luby]

Hi Phill

There's just been a major upgrade to the OPenTx firmware on the Taranis and its awesome. I've been using the beta versions for quite a while and it a big leap. It double the Taranis ARM Cortex M3 32-bit processor speed from 60 MHz to 120MHz and adds a basic type programming language to allow the development of custom commands as well as many many more upgrades and improvements.

Hi DJC

There's more than enough info in the code to work it out with a little reference to the Arduino website. My code is changing all the time depending on the Tx I am modifying. I'll post the final code later tonight (got to do the washing up else in trouble with wifey).

If anyone has any questions please post on the thread and I'll try to help as best I can.

By the way, just finished a single channel set with switched full left & right with servo reverse and 60% rate all selectable off the one switch.

Paul

(AKA Veri-Gash)

[Phil Green]

Posted by Paul Luby on 04/06/2014 19:56:42:

... just finished a single channel set with switched full left & right with servo reverse and 60% rate all selectable off the one switch.

...just in time for Ponty!

[Paul Luby]

Hi Phil

ref single channel set, its for a friend of ours.

Paul

(AKA Veri-Gash)

[DJC]

Paul

No hurry as I see it being a long term project

thank you

djc

[Paul Luby]

Sorry guys

Got nothing done today, wife had me finishing the downstairs toilet.

Good news is its finished, bad news now got to lay new kitchen floor.

Good news, off to look at some more Maine Coon kittens tomorrow to see if we like the breeders cats / kittens temperament, bad news, 3 hour drive each way.

Will do something Saturday.

Paul.

(AKA Veri-Gash)

[Paul Luby]

Hi DG3

Remember the discussion we had about CPPM and FrSky, I did some checking and it was fixed in a firmware update released on the 26-9-2012. The firmware release altered the frame length to 27 mS from 18 mS.

I checked the three of my Rx's that are CPPM capable and two were at 18 mS when in CPPM mode. Did the update and all where good at 27 mS when in CPPM mode.

On another note if any of you guys have issues doing firmware updates on FrSky stuff, give me shout cause the destructions aren't easy to understand so I wrote my own quite a while ago. I now follow them and have no issues, neither do the guys I give copies of them to.

Paul

(AKA Veri-Gash)

Edited By Paul Luby on 07/06/2014 19:29:28

[sgwlm]

I am following this with great interest, finding it very informative,

many years ago I built the rcm&e system when it came out, I have converted a challenger 6 and jr apex 5 to 2.4 so far, I still have several other sets to convert, futaba M series, Multiplex combi 80, I am still trying to find one of my first sets, a Remcon Quantum Six.(anybody got one)

they are working great

since having a stroke I think I have now forgot more than what I know, so it takes a bit of thought to sink in or just goes into brain fade,

I am finding the arduino interesting and am trying to get my head into it,

I tend to read more than I post, although have been flying for approx. 40 years,

brilliant thread,

shaun

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

Keep at it Shaun, it's worth it.

I know virtually nothing about programming or Arduino's but quite quickly managed to buy one and start squirting flashing light programs into it from the PC. I made the heady step to changing the timing of the flashes and then went on to loading in Paul's code.

The next step took a little more effort, and that was after wiring arduino up in the Tx, I had to read off the values at each end of stick travel, and insert those values into Paul's code.

Finally there was some tidying up to do in the code, i.e. a // at the start of each of the lines involved in the reading off of values, and the insertion of the noInterrupts line.

Paul and Phil helped along the way and Bob's your uncle. I have my own custom built replacement coder, that does just what the original Waltron did, nothing less, nothing more.

[Paul Luby]

Hi Shaun

As Chris said, the Arduino's are a great way to learn a little programming.

More importantly I think, converting an old radio to run with an Adruino and programming it accordingly, gives you a feel for how modern computer radios work. It makes them less scary I think.

Then there's the "I did that" satisfaction, which to me is priceless and much more gratifying than the "I bought that" feeling the modern buy and fly brigade get.

Just my opinion though.

Paul

(AKA Veri-Gash)

[DG3]

Posted by Paul Luby on 07/06/2014 19:28:30:

Hi DG3

Remember the discussion we had about CPPM and FrSky, I did some checking and it was fixed in a firmware update released on the 26-9-2012. The firmware release altered the frame length to 27 mS from 18 mS.

I checked the three of my Rx's that are CPPM capable and two were at 18 mS when in CPPM mode. Did the update and all where good at 27 mS when in CPPM mode.

On another note if any of you guys have issues doing firmware updates on FrSky stuff, give me shout cause the destructions aren't easy to understand so I wrote my own quite a while ago. I now follow them and have no issues, neither do the guys I give copies of them to.

Paul

(AKA Veri-Gash)

Edited By Paul Luby on 07/06/2014 19:29:28

Hi Paul,

I just checked one of my D4R-II receivers (manufactured 30.08.13) and its cppm was at 18ms. I managed to upgrade its firmware to 27ms cppm. This should save a few messy wires on my DIY quadcopter. I also have a few D8R-II receivers and just upgraded one to 27ms D8R-XP firmware so its now a D8R-XP receiver for the slightly less price of a D8R-II receiver - gotta love Frsky.

The pics attached show all channels at minimum and then at maximum pulse width. My Taranis made it easy to do this by defining only one input stick (throttle) and mixing that to channels 1 to 8 so they all move concurrently.

Anyway most (all?) of this is off topic for your arduino TX conversion projects.

D

[Paul Luby]

Hi DG3

That's interesting, you've now got CPPM coming out of pin 1 on your D8R-II Rx.

So I'm thinking it would be reasonable to assume the D8R-II and the D8R-XP are the same Rx just with different stickers on, hmmmm.

It does save a production line, they wouldn't be the first company to make the same item, upload different firmware and call them different things.

Good spot, will keep that one in the memory bank for later use.

**Did a quick search on internet and yup, some guys have been doing this for a while.

Could you imagine Spektrum releasing hardware that you could change when you wanted to change it just by uploading new firmware. Spektrum says noooooo.

By the way, nice scope pictures.

Paul

(AKA Veri-Gash)

Edited By Paul Luby on 08/06/2014 23:08:42

[Paul Luby]

Hi Phil

Thanks for the invite to have a look round the PANDAS vintage meet yesterday.

I'd also arranged to meet a mate there who is also a member of PANDAS, so managed to kill two birds with one stone so to speak.

There was some lovely vintage models and radio gear there.

Though I've never seen the fascination in building vintage models as WWI scale is my thing, that may be changing a little.

I popped into Leeds model shop this morning for some bits and bobs and came away with these two Ben Buckle kit beauties,

Ben Buckle Fokker DVIII

Ben Buckle Majestic Major

Should be good for a giggle down my local club.

The little Fokker DVIII is not altogether a bad idea as I have a BalsaUSA 1/3rd scale kit so my excuse is I'm building a small one to see how it flies. Wife believed me and that's all that matters

I have no excuse for the Majestic major at all, it just called to me.

So next year should be able to bring a model to the vintage meet.

Paul

(AKA Veri-Gash)

Edited By Paul Luby on 09/06/2014 14:01:31

[sgwlm]

thanks paul & chris,

I will keep at it but it will take some time getting it to sink in, I do find your information very useful, I am a "retro freak" if you like, wanting to re-live/get the gear I used to have, but on a more safe environment. I can fly off the beach (1/2 mile away) hence the 2.4ghz conversions, (currently use JR XG8, futaba challenger 2.4/jr apex 5 2.4)

I do have other flying sites as well, depending on what I want to fly/show-teach grandson (the beach is always a winner tho)

as I said previously, I tend to read/trawl more than I post, so please don't take it that I don't care about any comments/post anybody replies to,

keep the information/help coming

thankyou

 

 

Edited By sgwlm on 09/06/2014 17:24:08

Edited By sgwlm on 09/06/2014 17:24:36

[DG3]

Posted by Paul Luby on 08/06/2014 23:00:55:

Hi DG3

That's interesting, you've now got CPPM coming out of pin 1 on your D8R-II Rx.

So I'm thinking it would be reasonable to assume the D8R-II and the D8R-XP are the same Rx just with different stickers on, hmmmm.

It does save a production line, they wouldn't be the first company to make the same item, upload different firmware and call them different things.

Good spot, will keep that one in the memory bank for later use.

**Did a quick search on internet and yup, some guys have been doing this for a while.

Could you imagine Spektrum releasing hardware that you could change when you wanted to change it just by uploading new firmware. Spektrum says noooooo.

By the way, nice scope pictures.

Paul

(AKA Veri-Gash)

Edited By Paul Luby on 08/06/2014 23:08:42

This is my source of info Paul...

**LINK**

[Paul Luby]

Hi DG3

I've used that wiki myself, god knows how I missed that little nugget.

Must read things more carefully.

Amazing stuff Fr Sky are putting out though, very versatile.

Paul

(AKA Veri-Gash)

[Shaunie]

Hi Paul,

Congratulations on getting your face published in RCM&E .

I have an Arduino question, are the ones from Ebay any good or am I better off buying from, say CPC at 25 quid a go?

Shaunie.

[David...]

I've purchased 5 from a various UK sellers, they are not real, most marked as 'Sainsmart' and I have never had any issues with them - both Uno and MEGA. General cost is a bout £7 delivered. I have also purchased just the base chip and xtal for £3 - if you get lucky.

[DG3]

From the Arduino.cc website;

"The boards can be built by hand or purchased preassembled; the software can be downloaded for free. The hardware reference designs (CAD files) are available under an open-source license, you are free to adapt them to your needs."

So essentially there are the official arduino boards then there are the legal clones.  Farnell are very expensive. I buy mine cheaply from a reliable ebay.com seller based in china somewhere, alice1101983. **LINK**  The ones I've tinkered with have been perfect, same chips etc. For example a Nano with shipping comes to £3.49.

Edited By DG3 on 09/06/2014 22:36:50

Edited By DG3 on 09/06/2014 22:39:33

[Paul Luby]

Hi Shaunie

Quite a few responses to that question.

I've bought them from a few e-bay sellers, here's a few places I've bought them from with no issues,

Hobby Components

Booski Bits

4 Tronix

Pi Hut

The Pi Hut is by far the most expensive as most of there's are genuine Arduino's.

I have at the minute 1 Tre developers Pre-Release board, 3 Mega's, 2 Due's, 2 Leonardo's, 2 Uno's, 2 Micro's, 6 Nano's and about 20 ish specialised Arduino 's on steroids. My Tre and Micro's are my only genuine Arduino's.

I get most of mine from Hobby Components (listed above). Virtually all their's are Funduino branded and I've never had an issue with them, his delivery is quick as well.

If I want genuine, then go to someone like the PiHut and pay the extra.

Remember, as DG3 said, these things are open source, so anyone can download the design information and knock a few thousand up and sell them if they want to or tinker with the design.

For example, I've just ordered some Pro Mini's, I know for a fact the batch that are gonna turn up will have the 328 Nano chip and not the 168 Pro Mini chip. That's fine cause the extra memory and double clock speed will come in handy and its still way way cheaper than buying a genuine Pro Mini. The original Arduino Pro mini was designed by Sparkfun and others have put a better chip on essentially the same board hence the extra memory, etc.

Another example, I needed a Nano size Arduino but with 12 analogue inputs so I got a batch of Arduino Dreamer Nano's. These are basically Leonardo's on a Nano board.

The basic rules are,

1. if someone has tinkered with the design, they will normally state it very clearly.

2. If their calling it an Arduino, you can virtually be assured it compatible with the Arduino programming interface and protocols.

3. If you stick to the standard Arduino's, such as Uno, Leonardo, Nano, Mega, Due, etc then you tend to find their 100% identical to genuine Arduino's.

Hope this helps and isn't too much.

I have way too many of these little gadgets.

Paul

(AKA Veri-Gash)

Edited By Paul Luby on 09/06/2014 23:36:53

[Paul Luby]

Hi Guys

Couple of quick notes.

That batch of 40 Arduino Pro Mini's I ordered turned up and were as I suspected, they had the 328 chip on board. All are functioning and compatible with Arduino IDE.

Reason I haven't posted anything for a couple of days is I've been digging out the base for my new Model Workshop.

It's not been that easy though.

First, I've had to dig and lay a new 9 x 7 ft base for my old garden shed and move the old garden shed.

Then I've had to demolish the old oil storage tank brick supports and cut down my old concrete fence so I can extend the garden to my boundary as well.

Then I've had to dig the 20 x 12 ft base for the Model Workshop, it has to be dug down to about 3 - 4 inches and the soil wheel barrow'd to a skip I've had delivered.

All I have left to do is dig a third of the Model Workshop base down to 3 - 4 inches, lay the dry mix and then the paving slabs all nice and level.

Lets not mention getting rid of the wood fence panels, etc.

It's taken me five days so far working about 6 hours a day on it and I'm a little tired (understatement).

Paul

(AKA Veri-Gash)

[DG3]

Hi Paul,

I'm interested to know what your planning to do with 40 pro mini's!

Anyway, I have just finished repurposing an old 35MHz JR transmitter given to me. It was in a bad state with the battery cover missing, handle broken etc. It still worked although I really couldn't be bothered trying to figure out the 'computer' aspect of the radio with its old menu system. On the plus side it fits nicely in the hands and has good functioning sticks and trims. Rather than leave it on the shelf I decided to gut it and fit it out with an Arduino for the sole purpose of a trainer / buddy box using your code. So instead of sending ppm to a Frsky module I just send it out to a mono 'trainer' lead I found on an old nokia car kit loom. Its powered by a 9V battery, drawing about 39mA. I could bring that current down if I disabled the LED above the on/off switch. Arduino code was quite straight forward and heavily based on your own. It has been years since I learned the basics of C and C++ programming and I was never good at it so as a challenge I managed to figure out how to tighten up the code with for loops and arrays etc. No doubt it can be improved on but this is the limit of my knowledge. I hope this doesn't complicate the code for others just learning.

Two additional features are switchable exponential function and dual rates on the Aileron and Elevator only. These are adjustable in the code only but should be fine for trainer use. Code was tested as usual on the serial port, ppm output on the oscilloscope and calibrated on the trainer screen on the Taranis. The Taranis is superb in that you can set the % throw of each channel and whether each stick is enabled or not. Channel ordering is setup as TAER so in theory it should be usable on a spektrum transmitter aswell.

Total cost for the pro mini about €2.10 ! and hours of spare time.

Sketch is here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwMNz817pBH9QkdqTFRzanFGTXM/edit?usp=sharing

or pdf https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwMNz817pBH9SlN6ZmNjazFkNUk/edit?usp=sharing

Edited By DG3 on 18/06/2014 18:56:40

Edited By DG3 on 18/06/2014 18:58:47