Danny Fenton Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Hi Colin, no I was just questioning if it was worth all the effort. It will alter the way the fairings fit, but saying that none of it fits anyway I think there will be more difference in the weight as you will be using depron so should be lighter? And you may not actually get near the stall if its that light Barry I think you do need to look at what Alex has pointed out, not sure 3mm root and 8mm tip is right sorry about that. How does it look? It should have been 6mm root and 3mm tip, at the trailing edge, for a flat wing. Unless I have completely lost the plot? I prefer my tabs...... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 For a flat wing those measurements would give a neg wash out or a wash in ( not nice) , In the past I have never built a wing with those parameters, yes is looks good , If any thing there is too much wash out, if I set up the root at + 3 incidence, as it requires, I will take a reading on the tip, I'm sure there will be a + wash out possibly 4 deg, I'll let ya's know, Baa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Hi Danny. I'm influenced by the degree of "sort it out as you go along" that is evident from the experiences so far. The plan isn't precise in every area and this is why your guidance is so important to all of us. I'm not worried about the wing fairings, they're always a fiddle anyway but that's ok. The plan is what you would expect from a "one-off" prototype and lacks detail accuracy and guidance. I think the comparisons with the Airsail kit are valid because that reflects a degree of development and detail thought that you would expect for a design that was going to be produced in some numbers. Therefore I don't think what I am doing is going to take much longer and it's giving me a bit more certainty. I'm hoping to knock a bit of weight off and if so, as you say, it will reduce the stalling speed. For me, the slower it stalls the better, but at whatever speed it does so, I'd prefer it not to drop a wing. From what I read, the real one doesn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 Ok, it looks as tho young Danny is correct, "he still has the plot", I added bits of root false flap to the B4, and to the tip, with correct profiles, emulating the flappy bits, block up the centre section to 0 deg, transfered the meter to the tip, and behold +3 shows up ,now that is a little too much, and add to that + 3 on the Fuz = +6, so when the sheeting is applied, and the wing so flimsy it will easily be reduced by 1/2, so I will continue on with same sequence to the other panel .... I'm not sure whether the fuz incidence should be taken into account or not,with around 40 or so models scatch built, in the past I never have, so perhaps I have always got it wrong..., but they have all flown great, and never had a "wing drop " yet Pic's tell the story It looks like in one of pic's the tip "spacer" s incorrect, BUT it's not Edited By A.A. Barry on 03/11/2014 01:36:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 I've been thinking about the flappy bit shrouds, ...1/16 sheet " 90 deg cross grain" to the T.E , as the wing is flimsy I might add another spar 1/8 x 1/8 med. balsa strip 30 mm from the T.E. + the shroud, I can then glue a complete sheet length ways down the wing, but laminated with .4 mm ply backed with 1 mm balsa, ply facing up, this will give the T.E some more strength, less flimsy and a nice continuous finish.... what do you think ?????? Barry Edited By A.A. Barry on 04/11/2014 10:44:20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 I am happy with the glue area for the shrouds to fit on, but am toying with using 1/32 ply/balsa laminates for them so I can still sand them in nice ? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 John, will you be putting ply on top or the balsa?? Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Ply on the bottom for a little strength, balsa on top to sand in to a nice finish...I hope John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Once all the flimsy parts were added to the trailing edge, it all stiffened up considerably. Don't forget the 1/4 sq triangle section too Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 I second that, it comes out nice and rigid John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Danny/ John, 1/4sq?? is that the strip under the shroud I still havn't worked out wether the bottom of the flaps requires a shroud ??? Baa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Yes thats cut into a triangle section and strengthens the shroud and also adds stiffnes to the trailing edge on the whole. The underside of the flap/wing TE I created a sort of a shroud, though really its just 1/8 sq to bring the line of the trailing edge and the flap leading edge further aft. Just to create that step that is on the full size. does that help or just further confuse? Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 04/11/2014 21:53:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Ahhh, right, yep, I've already put the triangle strip on the top except I used 3/16, so a strip under the flap as well, only 1/8 x 1/8th. Danny did you read my report on the incidence values?? Baaa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Hi Barry I did indeed and it all went over my head too many numbers The incidence gauge seemed to give you numbers that had you Baaaa'ing into the meadow so that's good Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 Wings are now joined, a little fiddly but done, here's a couple of pic's of my subject Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 Nice colour Scheme Barry John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 The aileron wing depth is not very thick, so a couple of Power Star 6.4kg medium ones will just fit, as for the flap ones a std size 7kg ones will do nicely, I don't mind if the servo horn shows out, I mean i is not going to be entred in any scale comp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Here is my rendition of the Flappy wing bits,building them "as one" on a sheet base only, after that I will go as per plan Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 False trailing edge on your centre section is an excellent idea Barry. Gives you something to align your flappy bits too. I struggled here. Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 10/11/2014 11:56:29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Thanks Danny, it all came about by trying to get the washout deg. measurement, but it has served several other purposes Baaa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Nearly done then Barry, how/what are you going to cover yours with ? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Glory I should think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 John, I will be using Deluxe adhesive and L/weight cloth they supply with the gluey stuff, and then paint, the open areas will be covered in Sig koverall prior. I'll do the red trims in vynal sticky back decals, and that's about it, as for being "nearly finished", perhaps by Xmas .... maybe , and as for the glory bit, Nigel, no way...I'll leave that bit for others Cheers B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Pretty much the same as you Barry, I meant the basic airframe I know there's a long way to go yet. I've a cowl to do for another model so I will do that with glass cloth to get a feel for it. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Well I am very satisfied with the 1 wing panel Flap/aileron progress, I seperated the 2 and trial fitted the F/g precut hinge/horn parts, perfect fit ....amazing.. well done guys for organizing the parts, so now the other side Baa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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