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Electric Sea Fury


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Yes but I would like that little extra available if needed, you know the sort of thing tree ten feet in front and two feet higher than model....... It all depends on the final weight, and my final weight will be fully fuelled

So dodgey scales, dodgey batteries but the pilots fine??? lolololol

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Couple more pictures just c of G to play with now, 8 cells went in so sweetly. The beauty of A123 is they really don't care about being cooled, so you just wedge em in (technical term)

Going to make an arming plug using a Deans and fit the cowel then its time to fly.

AUW 7.7lbs Don't know what you fed yours on Shaun, but even with my dodgey scales (which are probablt innacurate) its still a light model and always felt as such.

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8615_(Large).JPG


http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8619_(Large).JPG

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High Timbo, I hadn't thought of that unfotunately as I am only interrupting one side of the feed would need to fit a second Deans to do that, or am I missing something???

The maiden will be filmed, i like to do that with all my models makes the inquest over a coffee more fun Weather is rubbish so not sure when it will be.

I must say for an ARTF it was a really nice model to assemble. If you do like Shaun and change the colours and add some detail then it can be made to look very attractive. But it isn't so bad as is.

I have tried to use everything as it was intended and apart from the rubbish screws (some of which didn't even have slots cut) and the piano wire was a little soft. I did change the horns for more hidden ones as I hate to see control horn attachment plates on the upper surfaces. I also linked the two elevator halves, thus saving me a servo and the linkages. The tailwheel I made must weigh a fraction of the one supplied.

I did in the end as Timbo suggested and used the £2.50 servos throughout as they were ballraced and much higher torques than the cheap Futabas.

The cost of the parts is shown on the first page of the thread and shows that this can be done fairly cheaply. Even the switch harness was a cheap UH one lol costing only a couple of dollars

I think a fair bit of weight has been saved by using the supplied mechanical retracts, which although sloppy should work okay, the proof of the pudding will be in the eating, that reminds me, Ice cream, Greenacres Electric Fun fly, August 16th and 17th, Hope to see you there???

Tally Ho!!!

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Looking good Danny

I need to speed up to catch you with finnishing the DH88 for the same flying session..
Bring the vid camera and we'll see what we can get.

I'm trying to work out an external Deans arming solution with charging.

I currently arm by having cells in 2 lots of 3 in each nacelle. Each "3" is connected to the ESC, and I arm by connecting the 2 "3"'s together at the back. This would be a great place to charge. But to do that I need to short accross the ESC ends while charging. This setup then has the potential of a short at both ends so I've given up on that idea...  and I'd still have to get to the ESC end.

So a new setup. To charge at the front, where I arm with a shorted Deans, I need one more connection for the other side of the battery. Do I put in another deans just for charging? That has the potential of connecting the arming plug accross the battery so thats a no no.

I could put in one 4mm round and make a charge lead which supplies the battery side of the arming socket and the 4mm (or even a 2mm).

Anyone have a neater solution???  Maybe just a different style 2 pin socket for charging is after all the simplest solution??

Tell you what - I'll also buy ice creams (or maybe even a beer) for the first person who can show me a decent solution, live in the flesh, at our funfly.  Danny I hope the ice cream man comes, otherwise its a trip out to the shop

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Could you not just run a seperate permanently wired "ground" lead from the negative terminal of the ESC to a single banana plug style socket on the cowl somewhere Danny ? Then you could charge using your deans "live bridge" socket and this terminal. Obviously by unplugging the bridge the ESC live termninal will be out of the equation so out of the circuit.
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I think I've settled on a solution for mine.

Theres not much in it between adding one extra connection and this to be honest.

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/32446/DH88_Loom.jpg

For me this leaves my batteries in my standard stick of 3 for use in other models. Just need to find a 10A connector for charging. Or use Timbo's method, which makes it impossible to charge with ESC connected.

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Shaun my YT Hurricane is rock solid in the air and I put that down to it being a bit heavy, flies beautiful all the same, just comes in a little quick even with the flaps hanging down, see vid http://www.greenacresmac.com/Videos/Hurricane%202nd%20Flight.wmv

I wont have the same sort of power that you have nor the duration, if I want that then I will have to put in more cells and a bigger motor, so its swings and roundabouts.

I think you also would be amazed at the weight of a coat of paint. Pick the tins up, not all that weight is solvent and evaporates...........

Looks like I am set for flying in the morning, lets see what the weather holds

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The suspense is killing........................

re: "a Camm nut, a man after my own heart  You looking forward to the forthcoming Hurricane from Mr N?"

Sure am...........!!!

Love what you have done with the Sea Fury.........but like you I really don't like the supplied scheme............I'd HAVE to change............somehow!!! 

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Shaun, I'm afraid you'll have to wait a little longer for the verdict that we are all so keen to know.

We did go to fly this morning, Danny with the Fury and me with my Ripmax DH88 on a cheap setup.

Due to the recent weather, the clubs new mower was taking the opportunity for its second outing and we couldn't fly within the time we'd allowed. It was also very cold and windy so we had to give it up as a bad job.

Plan is to go again one evening.So watch this space...

The good news is that the mower is doing a great job and the stip for the funflys should be superb.

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Sorry chaps, as Chris says we got there but weren't able to fly, as soon as I get a chance it will be in the car, and I will let you know.

Thanks for all your support and wishes its really great

Shaun and Dave If this thing flies okay then I will change the color don't fear, probably all blue like the Navy Historic Flight version. Only need one pot of paint  - lock the spray gun on wide open and a couple of low passes should see it looking better.

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Well the weather is being a real pain in the proverbial

Thought I would take the opportunity to show some pics on how to line up cowl, though I dare say you all know but for any newcomers to the hobby???

I have also decided to make a spinner from a cheap Mick Reeves static 1/6 spit spinner, perfectly okay for electric but NOT for IC

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8621_(Large).JPG


Cut a disk out of stiff paper with rings drawn for allignment, and mount on the motor

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8620_(Large).JPG


Attach paper stripsto fuselage to overlap cowl, and mark the centre of the mounting blocks

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8622_(Large).JPG


Mount the cowl and align the opening to the disk

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8623_(Large).JPG


Drill through the paper strips on the mark, and there you have it the cowl will be alligned and the holes will be in the centre of the cowl blocks

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8624_(Large).JPG


Trim the Mick Reeves Vac Formed spinner and make a matching 1/4 ply back plate.Spin the backplate in a pillar drill (unless you have a lathe you lucky person, and chamfer the edge for a snug fit

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8625_(Large).JPG



When snug push the cone over the back plate and mount in the pillar drill again move the cone around to get it alligned perfectly. Half a dozen small screws all around the base will hold it on.This wont be the strongest spinner in the world so not too many nose overs, and watch out when you stand the model on its nose to fit the wing!!!!
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