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Electric Sea Fury


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I have a big box full of props, I like BIG props they look better in flight but the high KV and current levels will dictate that.

Timbo I am currently flying using JEN wooden IC props, they are quieter than the APC thin electric jobs, have you done any thrust tests between the types of props for the BIGGER stuff? Might make an interesting article sometime???

Are we the only ones watching this thread  we haven't gone and got to techie have we? Don't want to alienate potential smoke tamers.........

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Just tuned in here, having got back from flying..............electric only...........since 07:00........

SO, Geek 4 reporting in...............

Reasons?

1. Sea Fury!

2. Hurricane!

3. The Seagull model, which I''d thought of buying, but don't want to go smoky oily...............

Mention 1 AND 2 in any thread and you'll have my attention............

Looking all good stuff so far, but the unsupported length of those motor mount screws concerns me a trifle..that's a very powerful torque/vibration creator dangling on the end, esp if the prop/etc balance is not perfect.

More!!!

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You would not believe how strong that mount is. We have been doing it this way for nearly four years and never had one give way yet. The YT Hurricane uses 5mm instead of 4mm and that was producing nearly 3kw!!!

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_7306_(Large).JPG

We have several 600 - 1kwatt models that use this method to, trust me its rigid. Several manufacturers AXI included do not recomend you mount the motors this way around, I personally nearly always do so that cooling air is not impeded on getting to the front of the motor. And I prefer a bolt on prop adaptor as opposed to a collet which can be a pain when trying to change a prop.

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Dave, forgot to say welcome to the thread, a Camm nut, a man after my own heart  You looking forward to the forthcoming Hurricane from Mr N??

Timbo no RC Model World, but don't tell Dave I read other magazines he will have a fit........ However the aformentioned 70" Messenger did only weigh 4lbs, but 90 watts is still impressive. I bet the takeoff run was measured in miles rather than feet.  PS I have sent you the FDR file.

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Been busy and not had a chance to get much done. Latest is that I have another motor from UH now MUCH BIGGER LOL and a nice big ESC. However I am now really intriqued to see if this will go with the power plant selected.

The Seagull Fury comes with an overly long cowl, looking at a three view shows that this is more like the cowl fitted when the Bristol Centaurus is substituted for the 4 row 28 cylinder Pratt and Whitney R-4650 converted racing FB.11 This has benefits for us. If we leave the cowl as long as it is then the smaller motor will keep the c of g correct, if we fit a larger motor we can shorten the cowl. For initial tests I will leave it long and if we need the bigger motor will shorten it. I much prefer the shorter look to be honest.

I am supposed to be building this as per the book but I really couldn't bring myself to fit the tailwheel in the manner described, I am sure it would work fine but it was bulky, ugly and heavy. I have substitued the wheel for a slightly larger one for the grass field I fly from and used some piano wire and appropriate sized carbon tube as a bearing. This is epoxied into the fuselage solid block that runs along the bottom. We will have to see if this method is strong enough, and whether a castoring tailwheel is okay when taxiing.

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8601_(Large).JPG


This is the original fitting

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8602_(Large).JPG


My replacement parts, the wheel was from UH and was less than $1

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8603_(Large).JPG



And here it is fitted, a collet locks it in from inside. I could have made it steerable by fitting a t-bar to a collet. But for the interests of expediency didn't bother.

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Okay tail feathers are fitted, and the elevator halves joined with some chunky SLEC Piano wire. Neat trick with the fluffy hinges is to use PVA on hinges as you fit them, not Cyano bled in after they are fitted, the PVA holds solid but doesn't stiffen the hinge material unduly. You have to work quick though it dries pretty quick. One of mine dried half in and half out, devil of a job the remove. Reassured me that the PVA is the way to do it

All the horns are Glass Board sunk full depth into moving surface with several small holes for keying. Bonded with 30 minute epoxy.

I have used swing keepers on the servo ends of the control rods, I like to use my Z bender but the piano wire in many ARTF's is so poor it often snaps, and as theses lengths are fairly long didn't want to risk one snapping.

Getting there.

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8606_(Large).JPG


http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8605_(Large).JPG



http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8607_(Large).JPG

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Well in the best practice of reviewing a model as supplied, I fitted the sad looking pilot that came with the model LOL Glued the canopy on with RC Modellers glue, you all know of this stuff right???? Anyway takes forever to dry

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_8609_(Large).JPG



Doesn't he look silly, bit like a switchboard operator lol, Shaun your be-sweatered nautical chap was much better LOL I can see this model getting a serious makeover if it flies okay

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Wait til we see how it goes, I must say I have been impressed with the fit and build quality. Was hoping to fly it this weekend but weather forecasts are not looking great

Just balanced it on the scales, minus battery pack, and two Rx packs ( extra for retract) and it says 7lbs so we may be on to a winner, though the scales are not the most reliable in the world

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Hi Shaun I do have a Petes Pilot lol, all ready to go. But I am not so good with the brushes as you are matey  

Anyway, don't want to get attached ( I always do) and I want to fly this til it falls to bits.

Anyway spun the small motor tonight, 8 cells A123, 14 x 7 prop. 980 Watts, 40.2 Amps, next biggest prop I have is a 17" need something around a 15"

It will fly this quite happily but the takeoff may be interesting it all hangs on the final AUW weight.

Got the mechanical retracts working a real treat, used a Bluebird BMS706 servo £6 from Ebay. Its a low profile jobbie so fits (bear this in mind the retract servo needs to be low profile) Anyway I set the endpoints on the JR retract channel to just 50% and the servo speed to be around 3 secs. Calculated the amount of travel required by the retract units (19mm lock to lock) drilled a servo output disk to give me 25mm at 60 degrees.  I hooked it all up and increased the endpoints until the servo locked in both up and down. Turned out to be 128% in both directions.

Wheels take three secs up and three secs down, with a good radio even mechanical retracts can be a doddle. A lot easier than when I used mechanicals twenty years ago took days to set up!!!

Will try and weigh the model tonight as almost finished.

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