Paul Hartley Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I am converting an old glider to electric and using a spare motor and ESC that have been fine in other models. Want to set the brake now its in a glider so tried to follow the instructions. ESC is marked as HiModel Fly 33A and came from BRC some years ago and is no longer stcked. The instructions call the ESC a "WASP" brushless ESC. The instructions say brake is set off and to set it you switch on the TX set max throttle and then connect the flight pack, wait 5 secs and should get 4 tones, close throttle and get confirmation tone. Brake is now set. However in practice if you put the throttle to max and connect the flight pack and leave it at max there are 2 beeps and the motor then starts at max revs. Tried doing it at when I got the 2 beeps moved throttle to min. I then get 4 beeps and thats it. If I then move the throttle the motor runs as normal. So now not sure if, a) The brake is on or off. How can I tell? the motor seems to spool down at the same rate as when it was in another model, and despite trying the above procedure nothing seems to change. b) why when the throttle is open and I power the ESC it goes to full throttle, as I thought they "failsafed" to not start until the throttle was at min and then moved towards max. c) I should bother with the ESC and buy a new one, but seems a waste as it seems OK otherwise Any ideas please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I've used those ESCs in the past and have the instruction sheet in front of me, Paul. It sounds as if you are doing all the right things - the motor certainly should not start until you've brought the thr stick back to min. What system are you using? - if it's Futaba you may need to reverse the thr channel. Is the ESC plug fitted correctly to the Rx? Obvious questions but it has been known.... My main suspicion is the thr channel direction. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Can you spin the prop by hand and do you have easy access to the esc - motor connectors? I suppose it is a folding one. Try to spin it with the brake on and then with the esc disconnected. Normally you should see that it runs longer until it comes to a halt while the esc is disconnected. If you have no break in flight it is not a big miracle, the prop will run driven by the airflow and will break the plane - so it will not glide as nicely as with the prop folded, but other than that I do not see any issues. Had folding props also on park- flyers, never had a broken prop on (normal) landing. VA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I also have one of those BRC "WASP" ESC's in a Coyote and despite several attempts over the years have never managed to stop the folding prop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 The instructions here seem to suggest the brake is set on by default. It also says you can detect if how the brake is set by the number of beeps the ESC makes when it is switched on. 1 beep means the brake is on, two beeps means it is off. Hope this helps. By the way I have an ESC that performs perfectly but the brake will not set although with an identical ESC setting the brake is no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I think the crux of the problem is likely to be here: However in practice if you put the throttle to max and connect the flight pack and leave it at max there are 2 beeps and the motor then starts at max revs b) why when the throttle is open and I power the ESC it goes to full throttle, as I thought they "failsafed" to not start until the throttle was at min and then moved towards max. I'm not sure it's going into any sort of programming mode at all... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Simon, thanks for posting those instructions [lost mine] will give it another go when I get a mo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 It sounds to me like you have an esc with pretty old software. I.e. it doesn't have the safety function that we now expect. Unless you can find a way to get into progammimng mode, I think I'd be putting this one on one side for another model and I'd look at buying another for the glider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 One other thought Paul, is the Tx throttle channel definately set to maximum travel in both directions? If not, the ESC may just be interpreting your full throttle stick position as part throttle. Worth a check I think, and then try the programming again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 It might also be worth adding max trim to full throttle before connecting the flight pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Found mine is set to brake [one beep on start up] however you have to spin the prop by hand a couple of times before brake activates and even then it does not seem to have enough resistance to stop the airflow from turning the prop some. It might be if I slow the Coyote enough then the prop may stop and fold but it will have to wait until the weather improves to try, been very rough out on the west coast of late. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hartley Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hi guys, thanks for the responses. Simon - the instructions link goes to a different set than were supplied with the ESC when I bought it and dont seem to match what happens at all. I think Pete and Chris might have got to the main issues. - Using Spektrum DX5e (I can hear the groans from here ) radio as it is a spare, and have checked the throttle channel operation. Have also adjusted the trims to try and make sure its fully closed with no change. Have checked when I bought the ESC and it was early 2009 (didnt realise it was that long ago) so my money would be that the software doesnt have the safety function and for some reason its not going into programming mode. will have a think about getting another ESC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I must admit I'm surprised about the apparent lack of the safety arming function, Paul. The BRC instruction sheet I have doesn't describe the usual ESC arming process. PM me for a copy of the instruction sheet if it's likely to be of help to you. Pete ps Nowt wrong with the DX5e...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Paul's ESC must be faulty, mine will only arm and start from low throttle.John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hartley Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Just to update you all. Thanks to Pete for the instructions. Used them but still couldn't get it to set the brake correctly. Went for a new ESC (from HK) and also bought the programming card to avoid problems setting it up from the TX. Duly arrived and connections made up. Followed the programming card instructions and surprise it did something, but got more beeps than the instructions said. Decided to try it in the model and thankfully it works correctly. The failsafe etc all work properly and the brake is definately set now. So to answer my original question when the brake is set you can clearly tell that the motor is forced into stopping quickly compared it the way it coasts to a halt when the brake isn't on. The old ESC looks like it wasn't going into programming mode (as many suggested) and seems to have a fault on it around the failsafe. Now consigned to the bin. JUst need to maiden the model now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Yep, you've run out of excuses now Good luck with the maiden - let us know how it goes! Oete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Posted by Paul Hartley on 10/02/2015 16:44:13: The old ESC looks like it wasn't going into programming mode (as many suggested) and seems to have a fault on it around the failsafe. Now consigned to the bin. You could just retain it for a model that won't need a folding prop & brake or even for bench testing new motors etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hartley Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Well one of the club experts to maiden it the other day. Bit of a zoom climb under greater than half power, but otherwise OK. He suggested adding some down thrust, which I have (about 2 deg). Flew it myself on Wednesday and it still zooms under greater than half power, but managed to glide it around and land ok. Think I will put a bit more down thrust in and see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hartley Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Should have said the brake worked well in flight and on landing. This is what it looks like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 You could try moving the cg back at the same time adjusting the elevator to maintain the glide trim. Best to repeat this in increments over several short flights until you think the cg is as far rearwards as you are comfortable with. The quickest way would be using the dive test & if you can do it from a slope soaring site even better. This would result in an improved glide performance with less tendency for the nose to pitch up under power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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