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Posted by Andy Meade on 10/02/2015 11:29:39:

Any details on the Reno 300 please?

Hi Andy, The Reno 300 hundred is a low cost way of having a go at pylon racing. Using funfighter sized models of WW2 fighters redecorated in the style of Reno aircraft. The models use engines in the 25 (with a tuned pipe) to 38 size 2 stroke range with no modifications except where allowed we do remove the baffle from the exhaust. We succesfully got the class ratified by the BMFA and held a competition a few years ago at the Nats.

For various reasons the class did not restart the following year (mainly due to a lack of flying sites and that you need about 12 people to man the course and race. Also it was not well advertised really).

We have a facebook group Reno 300 Pylon Racing, and you can download the rules as a PDF at www.funfighters.co.uk using the menu button at the top you will find the Reno300 page.

The first meeting is 29th of March 2015 near Ivinghoe Beacon in Bedfordshire. The great thing about this racing is that you can run it at most club fields due to the use of normal sized engines.

An electric setup is also being developed at present although this may become a subgroup if we cant match the speed accurately. This will be a supplied setup (one make only) using a govenor based speed controller to limit power. I'm trying to keep the cost below £150.00 for motor, ESC, and a couple of battery packs if I can, which will bring it in line with IC costs.

If you'd like to have a go please email me at [email protected] you'll be glad you did.

Daren.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi, sorry it's been a while but I've been very busy lately.

Last time I had just fitted the cowl sides. From here I fitted all the triangular fillets to the cowl and the nose ring. The next job is to carve and sand the nose section to shape using the plan and pictures from the net to get an accurate shape. The best way I find is to curve down the top and then taper the sides in as necessary. Once this is done you just round off the corners and fine tune with sand paper at the end of the process.

Finally I gave the whole fuz a coat of Deluxe Materials sanding sealer and leave to dry.

lete.jpg

Now I deviated from the instructions again.This is because the standard kit leaves an opening for the engine on the left side. I dont want to fill this in yet as depending where things balance I will probably need to build the flight pack in to the engine bay on this model. For this reason I'm going to start building the wings and tail now.

The wing build begins with the leading and false trailing edges, glued with white glue and taped in place. Once dry, cut the excess off and add the wing tips in the same way. A bit of a fiddly job next, fitting the aileron torque rods. Start by bending the rods to size and shape. A vice is a great asset here making sur you create a left and right handed rod. Once this is done and the excess trimmed off, Cut off the static part of the trailing edge section which covers the torque rod. Cut out a channel in which the torque rod will sit and notch out carefully for the bearing tubes. I always now grease the torque rods and fill the channel in the trailing edge with epoxy and glue this in this place. When fully cured. give the torque rod arm a twist and you will have a rigid slop free bearing for the torque rod.

teshpe.jpgtrinstall.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Wow time flies, Sorry it's been a while. I will get back on this soon. I have been redesigning the company logo and much more including the developement of the Zero. I'm looking to road test some kits in the near future. These will be pre production kits that require feedback from customers.

I will need to produce 8-10 kits to acheive this which I will make available to a lucky few at much reduced cost for evaluation purposes. You will need to order in advance, Make notes on issues found with the kit and the instructions ( in the form of a review maybe the best way ) and then allow up to four weeks for delivery.

If you are interested then please PM me your details or email me on [email protected] which by the way has had the awful menu system changed so that it works on mobile devices and is much easier to use now.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey there, I was at Long Marston today and saw these (or the Cambrian ones - does anyone know which ones it was?).

Never built a balsa/ply model before, but definitely want to now! (in fact I've never had a Petrol/IC model either, and I've been flying 10 years!)

Anyway - how easy are they for a new builder? I've built the Flite Test planes using foamboard etc, so can obviously use tools etc, but wondering if there are step by step instructions etc for a newbie like me who hasn't got the foggiest of where to start with a balsa

I'd also be looking to make this my first IC too...!

Thanks

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Matthew

I was also at LM yesterday, saw the display and bought the model! I was already interested after seeing the Hien review in the RCM&E mag.

I chose the Mustang and have just started building this morning. 2 hours in and the fuselage is 3/4 complete. So far, it's going together easily but I have built models from plan before. I wouldn't think you would have any issues from what I have seen so far. I am using Cyano for speed and as it's a FUNfighter I am not looking to produce a scale masterpiece - just get it in the air asap

PS yes step by step instructions are included (but there are no decalssad)

Edited By Masher on 31/05/2015 11:11:47

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Thanks for the replies guys - yeah I nearly bought one yesterday but only saw ME109 kits there (didn't have a proper look as I was undecided), I guess I should have looked properly

I think I'll most likely go for the Spitfire, or the Mustang - undecided yet

And that's good to know you've got so far already - I'd probably use CA or I have some Epoxy. Only thing I need to learn then is how to cover properly and buy a cheap covering iron

And yep I'll get guidance from people before installing the IC due to no experience, and read up a ton on tuning etc.

They looked fantastic in the air yesterday, some lovely lovely paint schemes. What sort of flight times can they get? I guess the nice thing is there's just a case of refuelling and ensuring receiver lipo has enough power then you're back in the air!

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I would recommend aliphatic glue Matt. Cyno is rather brittle.

I bought my 'cheap covering iron' £3 from Asda. A bit unwieldy and I would love to get a real one, but £30........

And on the 'cheap' front, I have had good luck with Hobbyking covering.

It is a bit stiffer than Solarfilm, but then the iron slipped over it a bit better. It was 50/50 until you compare cost.

Edited By Kevin Wilson on 31/05/2015 13:04:50

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Posted by Kevin Wilson on 31/05/2015 13:02:14:

I would recommend aliphatic glue Matt. Cyno is rather brittle.

I bought my 'cheap covering iron' £3 from Asda. A bit unwieldy and I would love to get a real one, but £30........

And on the 'cheap' front, I have had good luck with Hobbyking covering.

It is a bit stiffer than Solarfilm, but then the iron slipped over it a bit better. It was 50/50 until you compare cost.

Edited By Kevin Wilson on 31/05/2015 13:04:50

The only trouble I have with Cyano is the smell and the fumes it may be brittle but it's never compromised an airframe. I tend to use PVA white glue and keep epoxy for highly stressed areas because of both its weight and slow cure.

Agree 100% about HK film. It's cheap and goes on better than Profilm. I used it for the first time just recently to cover the model I maidened a week ago and would certainly use it again.

Matthew, if you've built the Flite test foamboard models then you'll have no problem with balsa which I think is a much better material. Just use conventional glues rather than the hot glue that seems to be so popular with foam board. IIRC Flitetest are about to run some programmes on building with balsa.

Geoff

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Hi all, Great to hear that you enjoyed the show. I've had a great response thank you. I find that PVA white glue is best for most of the build. I use cyano to tack the parts while the white glue dries. This way you get the flexibility of PVA and the speed of cyano by leaving small gaps where you need to tack parts together. If you want to see a real spectacular show come to Weston park where we have up to 28 models in the air at once and later in the day we do a spectacular pyrotechnics display with some of the top pilots in the UK. Also our new display, 'The Race' a figure of 8 course with dramatic cross over in the centre and through the trees. Anything can (and usually does) Happen. Remeber also that our kits at the shows are available exclusively from Nexus Modelling Supplies, who can also supply every conceivable accessory for your Funfighter including electric motors. Electric convertions are simple. Just create a Hatch for the Lipo, make a ply nose disc to mount the motor and form a tray for the lipo, Job done. 1150 Kv motor, 60amp esc. 2200 4s 45-90c lipo.

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