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Solarfilm? Pah!


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Maybe it's only me, but I've now covered five models with Solarfilm. Two of them I had no problems with apart from my inexperience of using the stuff. Two of them I had a rather annoying mis-match of colour which was down to me not buying enough off one roll to finish the model.

This time I did buy enough off the one roll, so I haven't got any variation in colour. But what I've got instead is a lot of grot sandwiched between the film and the colour. It's difficult to get a good snap of it, but this is basically what the bottom surface of my wing looked like after the second panel went on ...

The whole 3 metres I bought are like this, and in fact it's worse in some areas as a few of the blebs are actually clear i.e. they look like pinholes but aren't through the film.

Going back to the shop and moaning about it wasn't an option as I needed to get the wing covered this afternoon, and in truth it looks OK unless it's against a bright sky and you're looking at it from less than 3-4 yards. But at getting on for a fiver a metre, I'm through with Solarfilm and their rotten quality control now.

Profilm's awful dear when you're on a pension, so what's the HobbyKing stuff like?

Edited By Spikey on 15/06/2015 20:32:28

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It was the vicars knickers when it first came on the market. It always had a few short comings but was quick and easy to use and 'NEW' Maybe your balsa/veneer surfaces were a bit dusty to start with, Use a 'tacky cloth before hand or give the wood a light doping and then a light sanding with fine paper and then a wipe over before applying the film. You could use a vacuum cleaner to clean structures. The problem occurs when you pull off the clear polythene backing sheet it immediately gets charged up with static and the balsa dust says 'were moving' and you have that lumpy problem.

The Hobby King covering is very good also Steve Webb models has a vast supply of coverings in all colours and many patterns I think that the HK and Steve Webb films are polyester which stays drum tight too.

Sorry about the prices, things were dear 60 years ago when I started but since the 'Interweb' came we are all living on cloud nine and yes I am on a state pension too.

Roy

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Posted by ROY DAVIES 1 on 15/06/2015 21:03:21:

Maybe your balsa/veneer surfaces were a bit dusty to start with, Use a 'tacky cloth before hand or give the wood a light doping and then a light sanding with fine paper and then a wipe over before applying the film. You could use a vacuum cleaner to clean structures. The problem occurs when you pull off the clear polythene backing sheet it immediately gets charged up with static and the balsa dust says 'were moving' and you have that lumpy problem..

No Roy, as I said - the grot is sandwiched between the film and the colour. It is there before the backing film is peeled off. It is dust, but it is built into the product.

So ref the Steve Webb or HK stuff, if it's heavier gauge, is it more awkward to get round compound curves without ending up with creases, or is it still stretchy enough to cope with what Solarfilm will? I'm thinking in particular about wingtips like this (sorry about the picture-best I could find to illustrate what I'm on about)

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Hi Spikey . I have seen this before but was in rolls being sold cheap at a show,almost like sand in the colour/adhesive. Contact Solar film direct , If they don't know about it they can't do anything about it. You may even get something in way of compensation although they may just say you should have checked before fitting the stuff. Hope you get a favourable response and let us know how it goes.

Re the HK or polyester type covering . yes it will do what solar film will do but needs higher temp to stretch around compound curves. You have to leave enough overlap at wing tips to get a good grip then using a hot air gun (modelling type)  heat the area as you pull it around the tip. It wont hole or tear like like solar film as its much tougher even with very hot covering iron it won't melt like polyethylene that solarfilm is made from.

Edited By Engine Doctor on 16/06/2015 09:38:04

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+1 for HK stuff.

In my opinion Solarfilm is awful. A nice sunny day is all it will take to cover your model in wrinkles. If you have the right model solartex is wonderful.

Oracover is good.... but not as good as the HK stuff.

Try it, you won't look back!

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coming from a tissue and dope/silk upbringing ....solarfilm was/is a revelation when I came back into modelling in the 1980's ....I don't think it should be slagged off as it is ....it is still a remarkable invention.....god bless the lad who was mr solarfilm-I see he's passed away a few week's ago.

ken Anderson...ne...1..... film dept.

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I think you've been a bit unlucky with Solarfilm there Spikey.
I've never had any quality issues with it apart from cack-handed application by me.
It's critical of iron temp, especially during application, but set the iron correctly & its
fine.
Mr. Hardman was a genuine innovator.




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You must have got a bum roll - no pun intended - really. I was a little over generous in my praises but it was the best for value and application. Does anyone remember 'Moneycote' as it was disparagingly called ?

I would get on the phone and lodge your complaint, every manufacturer has a hiccup now and then. The HK stuff and all the polyesters are really strong and can be ironed to remove for repositioning. Another good thing when you have totalled a model you will have it in an already sealed bag so there wont be splinters on the carpet when you get home.

Just under the Radar.

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