Scruffmeister Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Hi All - I'm planning to use these Multiplex wing servo boxes to install the micro servos in the wings of my Chris Foss Phase 6. What kind of glue would you suggest is best to fix a plastic box like this into a veneer foam wing? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Gorilla glue. Wash the components first (not the wing.....) and use some medium glass paper to rough them up a bit first. Tape them in well as you glue them and cut off any extruded glue before it sets too hard. Try not to glue too close to the servo lead channels/ducts or w.h.y. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_B Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 30min. epoxy Been there, done that, got the tee shirt. As Braddock says, be sure to rough up the plastic first to provide a key for the glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Meade Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Gorilla every time - it expands to fill all the gaps to bind the two parts together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffmeister Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Would you recommend Gorilla for joining the two wing halves of a veneered foam wing, or is it better to stick with Epoxy there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Meade Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 They are usually sanded a bit more evenly for dihedral purposes at the root, so epoxy (to me) would be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanR Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I can't remember where I saw it, but I have seen a Youtube video of a chap testing various adhesives. When it came to gap-filling he decided that the foam part of polyurethane glue (Gorilla glue, I believe) wasn't particularly strong. He preferred pva or aliphatic for gap filling although the polyurethane got top marks for close-fitting joints. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 The wing root joint is normally just part of the whole. There should be other reinforcing structures in the form of either dihedral braces or fbreglass tape and resin, normally epoxy, that provides the ultimate strength. I have a mate who swears by white glue to complete the initial joint then reinforces the joint with the tops of his wife's cast off nylon hose which he laminates with white glue. My choice in this case would be epoxy, 5 minute for the initial joint then 30 minute stuff with the glass bandage for the loadbearing reinforcement. Gorilla glue will do it but it's more messy in my opinion or that just may be me. Edited By Braddock, VC on 23/06/2015 12:08:02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 An interesting discussion, in many aspects. I do not think that i am in a minority, when glueing anything, in that in most cases there is generally not one adhesive that is perfect. or that a variety of others could at a practical level fill the role adequately. In all cases the starting point will normally be, is the adhesive strong enough, and other issues such as is durable, waterproof, impact/shock resistant or sand easily. Taking the wing box, how strong does it need to be. Often not particularly strong around the plain surfaces. Does benefit to have a good strength joint where the box attaches to the wing skin, as this is where the primary stress will be encountered. At the real world level, if the box is attached to the core well, the stresses will almost certainly be adequately distributed. On that basis, you will need to have confidence that your adhesive bonds well to the box. Not much adheres well to a smooth surface, so slightly abrade the outer surfaces? PVA does not stick well to polymers normally, Epoxy tends to be heavy and will not bond well to a smooth surface. With these things in mind, using Polyurethane glues (such as Gorilla) seems attractive, other than it to can be heavy and can make quite a mess, being negative. Being positive, abrade the box body, lightly coat a very thin film onto the box and you can make good use of the foaming properties, to adhere to enough of the foam to have a joint which fulfils the practical role. However if you are generous, then the expanding foam will try and often succeed in distorting light unrestrained structures. The other downside is that Gorilla is about twice the price of its competitors, on the upside a half used bottle has a better shelf life than a half full massive container of its competitors. Gorilla is better for us hobbyist and the other brands are for industrial professional users. My point is, in essence, you nearly always have to compromise, balancing all sorts of issues from performance and costs, yet there is invariably more than one viable solution. You just have to think about your particular issue. And yes! I am a PVA fan, although like many modellers I have also got Gorilla (polyurethane), Cyno, Epoxy, hot glue and even glue sticks on my shelf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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