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Top Flite Corsair 60 build


Ian Mat
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The first two photos are from the good side, as you can see the retract mount rail is flush with the curvature of the rib and will be covered by the skin.

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However, the other side protrudes by about 3mm:

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I can't believe I didn't spot it while I was gluing it all together... I think I can probable take the edge off the retract unit and chamfer the mount rail to suit the wing profile. I will be able to make the undercarriage legs the correct length so the model sits parallel to the ground and I'm not sure anyone will notice one leg being 2 - 3 mm longer than the other!

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Yesterday evening I built other two parts the the wing, I'm pleased to say that this went much more smoothly then the central section. The only real issue I had was the the jig pieces were missing from a number of the ribs and I had to spend a while trying to find them in the mixture of discarded wood in the box. This was the end result:

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Left them to dry overnight and then this morning joined the whole lot together, which was a time consuming job, but well worth doing properly. I think I've even ended up with a non twisted wing!

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So that lot will have to dry overnight, then I'll start shaping the leading and trailing edges, assuming it's not raining tomorrow... I can't really do that much sanding in the dining room or garage.

Does anyone have any tips on how to achieve a uniform shape over that length, or is it just trial and error?

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OK so I shouldn't have been worried about the retracts protruding too much from the bottom of the wing... I've now discovered that both retracts protrude from the top of the wing!!! in fact from my measurements the retracts don't actually fit within the depth of the wing!!! Only by about 4mm but I'm starting to understand where the experience is needed in a model like this...

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  • 2 months later...

Thanks for the support guys! I've managed to get off lightly, from what could have been a very serious accident. I slipped on the stairs at home and managed to break a vertebra in my back... fortunately there is no nerve damage and I will make a full recovery in a few months. Unfortunately the Corsair has had to move to the back burner, however I will start back on it as soon as I can.

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  • 4 weeks later...

HI Ian. I wouldn't worry to much, I started a build on this same top flite kit some 14 years ago, I ordered up some twist and turn air operated retracts from Unitracts. The time and trouble it took me to install them put a real damper on doing any more to the kit and it was put up on a shelf in the workshop. It hung over me and points an accusing finger. I took it back off the shelf a couple of months back with Bit of renewed enthusiasm and started again this time doing bit of retro fitting of the pilots cockpit and now have decided to convert it over to electric. If anybody out there has already done this how did you make the battery hatch.

While putting in the retracts did you have to cut away a rather alarming amount of the wing formers to accommodate the main body of the retract unit (another reason it went up on the shelf). my confidence in the wing strength has been compromised. Still is that why we build just to get around problems.

Like all the rest hope you better feel soon.

Jim Longbon.

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  • 3 months later...

For what it's worth, I put Lado retracts with Robart Struts in my TF Corsair. Easy to install and they work a treat.

As for the engine, I installed an RCV 120-SP. A bit overpowered but I figure if you need weight in the nose it might as well be useful weight, and it swings a 16" 4 bladed prop beautifully.

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Bob,

I angled mine slightly forward during the build to reduce the "pecking tendency". It's trial and error between getting the wheels as far forward as possible when they're down and being able to close the doors when they're retracted.

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I have angled the struts forward, as you suggest and seeing as I don't plan on adding any sort of doors, the angle can be changed as necessary. I am hoping to restart the build fairly soon, however I am now working a fair commute from home, so my building time is severely limited!

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Gents,

If I may interject a suggestion regarding the rudder and tailwheel linkage.

I bought this model already built a couple of years ago, complete with the Robart, rotating retracts, and the fella did a fine job, but I spent considerable time redoing several things on the plane before first flight.

My suggestion is to run a separate control rod to the rudder and another to the tail wheel, this eliminates the alignment troubles between the two, and the adjustment capabilities at the servo end make it capable of having different throws on each part.

Just another note of caution, don't use a plastic clevise on the elevator control horn link, I also modified this area with a metal clevise.

I cut an access panel in the bottom of my fuselage to gain entry to elevator and rudder/tailwheel controls.

I would definitely install individual aileron servos in each wing.

Just some thoughts, maybe they might help.

The plane flies awesome, mine has a Saito 1.00 four stroke in it, changed from a Super Tiger .90.

Good luck on the building

Take care, chat later,

Jim

Edited By DelRay on 26/04/2016 13:19:39

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just another thought regarding the Main Wheels and how to reduce the 'pecking tendency'.

The TF Corsair has the Wing and Stab incidence angles set at zero, unlike the real Corsair which has them at 2 and 1.25 degrees respectively.

Changing them both by 1 degree has numerous benefits:

1. The Main Wheels are automatically moved further forward.

2. It effectively introduces down thrust, making the model easier to fly.

3. The model's attitude in level flight is closer to that of the real aircraft.

Note that both incidence angles have to be changed by the same amount if the model is to remain flyable.

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  • 6 years later...

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