Peter Miller Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 Here is the link to the album pagehttp://www.modelflying.co.uk/gallery/images.asp?sp=&v=1&UAbN=353 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Cardona Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 hi, do you plan to make your own fuel tank as mentioned in the magazine or just use a 2oz tank?does a 2oz tank is not enough for a .15 engine? can't make ,say about 10min flight?regardsdaniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted July 10, 2008 Author Share Posted July 10, 2008 I thought I'd seen that somewhere before. There is a picture of it on your "Okie Swinger" plan in another mag, I'll have a go at that one once I've done the inevitable with the Miss D! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 A two ounce tank will give a reasonable flight, I just wanted a bit longer. I don't think it will give 10 minutes.Okie Swinger has a four ounce tank and that does give over 10 minutes but you can't get it into Miss Demanor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted July 11, 2008 Author Share Posted July 11, 2008 Hi Daniel, yes I will be making my own tank as I managed to "acquire" a 20mm brass conduit fitting from work the other day. The highest wattage iron I've got is 40w so I may have to invest in a new one for the job. Don't know how long it will last with the brown-trouser .18 up front though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted July 11, 2008 Author Share Posted July 11, 2008 Now this is a bit strange! I wrote a post here a few hours ago and it seems to have vanished!So here we go again! I tried making the fuel tank this morning and almost cut my thumb off while using a holesaw to cut the 20mm hole for the brass bush in an old biscuit tin. I've since given up on that idea. I've cut the end off an old square tank and shortened it to fit the airframe but I'm not sure what kind of glue to use to stick the two halves together. Will cyano be ok with glow fuel?Oh and I've just bought a SC .15 engine in an attempt to keep the Miss D flying past her de-flowerment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 I hate to say this now but:You should alwasy hold metal with pliers when doing anything like making holes in it. Guess how I know!Not sure what glue to use on the tank. I think CA might possibly work but I wouldn't trust it. Phone SLEC on the number that I gave above and ask them, they make them and stick them together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Cardona Posted July 12, 2008 Share Posted July 12, 2008 the design of this airplane is really good, easy to build and simple. (well done pete) the think that holds me not to start build it yet is that tank. i think i will try to find a 2oz tank a stay with that but here in malta are a little bit difficult to find that size. another possibility is try to enlarge a bit the plan, so i can use my magnum25 and maybe install a 4oz tankdaniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted July 12, 2008 Author Share Posted July 12, 2008 Hello again Daniel,I stuck the two halves of the tank together, filled it with glow fuel and pressurised it to about 3 psi for a couple of hours with no leaks. Seems to be a simple enough solution for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Latam Posted July 12, 2008 Share Posted July 12, 2008 Doug. You used CA to hold the tank halfs together? I may have to experiment on a 4 oz Du-Bro tank to see it it will work as well. Shave a 1/4 inch off the side to narrow it up for a skinny application.Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted July 12, 2008 Author Share Posted July 12, 2008 Hi Ken, I think I took about 20mm off the overall length to get it ti fit between the formers. I should have measured the capacity of the tank when I did the pressure test though, it used to be a 6oz tank.I used 10 second thin CA to join the two together then "gap-filling" CA around the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 12, 2008 Share Posted July 12, 2008 Ken, The SLEC Tanks are a rigid plastic and thicker than the Dubro tanks. I doubt if the technique would work with them.Scaling Miss Demeanor up for a .25 would be nice. Go to it! I estimate about 42 to 45 span wold be about right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted July 14, 2008 Author Share Posted July 14, 2008 Getting closer! Should have the fuselage finished today, not looking forward to fabricating the cowl though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 The cowl is easy, just follow the instructions. Build it on a "cut and try" system between the nose ring and F-1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted July 14, 2008 Author Share Posted July 14, 2008 Hi Peter,Do the 1/2" pieces go along tne top and bottom and the 3/8" for either side?I followed the hole pattern for the snakes on the drawing for the fuselage formers but it looked pretty horrible when I fed them through, the position at F6 is a bit wierd. The way the formers are printed on the drawing, are they facing forward with regard to the nose of the model? Although it doesn't show it on the drawing or in the text, is the cowl left open from 270 degrees to 360 (looking from nose to tail) to clear the engine?Cheers,Doug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 yes, the 1/2" pieces are on top and bottom. 3/8" sides. may need a bit of scrap in corners when carved away.The formers are front view. I do find that the snake holes need a bit of opening sometimes. Don't forget, the snakes cross over. When the plan doesn't show the plan view this can be a puzzle.I actually build the cowl round the engine and then remove the engine from the mount and xcarve to shape. The cut out for the engine is determined by how much space you need to get at the mounting screws to remove the engine. Crude but it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted July 14, 2008 Author Share Posted July 14, 2008 The spinner I bought for this project was a DuBro 2" two-piece dodad with various inserts for different sizes of crankshaft. The problem I have is that the back-plate seems to be a bit on the thick side inasmuch as I can't use the supplied prop washer. As I'd rather not mount the prop without it, does anyone out there know of a spinner manufacturer that has a thinner back-plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 Irvine makes spinners with a metal backplate. IT may be thinner than yours.Is your SC 15 a new one with the blue head or the old silver head. The latter has a shorter shaft. I had to get a special nut made for mine made from a bolt cut down and drilled and tapped.The other option is to find a prop with a thin hub, the new Master props are not too bad. You can also look for a thinner prop washer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted July 14, 2008 Author Share Posted July 14, 2008 The new SC 15 hasn't arrived yet (Aberdeen local holiday today) so I don't know about the head. I should have said that the engine I bought for this model (a Thunder Tiger 18) was the only small engine I could get my hands on at the time, shorter crankshaft perhaps?May be a silly question, but why did you cross the snakes and as I've built to the drawing so far, where should they be crossed?Thanks for taking the time to reply Peter, much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 We will have to see when the engine arrives.I cross the snakes because that gives a better exit angle at the rear of the fuselage. Lookinh down on the fuselage the elevator servo is right up against the left side of the fusegae with the output arm pointing in. The rudder servo is in the middle with the output arm pointing to the right.The snakes cross between F-5 and f-6. The elevator snake goes over the top of the rudder servo.Hope this helpspeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted July 15, 2008 Author Share Posted July 15, 2008 Thanks again Peter, It took a bit of jiggling about last night but I have the snakes routed as you specified. Looking at it again in daylight it seems I have got the angle of the rudder snake a bit wrong and am just about to attack F5 with something sharp! If I use the inboard hole on the rudder servo arm it should clear the throttle arm; you'll notice I've got the rudder & elevator arms pointing the same way.Damn postie is missing in action! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 That looks pretty good to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Peter Another advantage of crossing the snakes is that you can stick 'em together halfway down the fuselage for rigidity (as you well know) .Funny thing as well - I've always angled my engines (45 degrees ) just like your good self . Everything is easier to adjust & you dont get muck everywhere or lose silencers & it seems easier to just simply get to everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Hi Myron.My snakes are held at each former so are extremely rigid.With the 45 degree engines I don't have to design removable cowlings. also it is the easiest way of hetting the silencer out side the fuselage. Basically I am dead lazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Modesty is one of your better attributes.I should know Myron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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