Werewolf free plan

[David Atherton]

Im half way through building the werewolf that was a free plan from the begining of this year.

Ive nearly finished the fuzzy and am about to move on to the wing,ive got an ASP 32 for it.

Its a nice plan and has presented no probs so far.

Has anyone got any more build and/or finished model pics apart from the ones allready on the site,

it would be nice to see other peoples efforts.

Thanks in advance,

Dave

[Brian Clancy]

Hi Dave

 I've just started this model a few days ago and would love to see a few build pics too! Its my first build of any sort (plan or kit) and have only 'assembled' artf's up till now! I'm still at the cutting out stage and have decided to finish as many componets first before I start building. All the formers are now complete and checked and I'm well into the wing ribs. Its quite enjoyable and very satisfying, tho I'm still learning alot about building and plan reading!

 Brian

[COLIN MILNE]

Hi Dave,

I'm in the same boat and have had a few hints from Peter Miller with cutting out parts and transferring the drawings to the wood. I had a disaster photocopying the drawing to stick to the balsa to cut out parts as my printer / copier reduced the scale and I did not notice until well into the assembly of the fuzz etc.

\look on the other forum sites for werewolf as Peter has posted some photos. this may be of some help.

if you need help leave a post as peter always gets back with good advice.

Cheers

Colin

[Micheal Mabe]

Late in the game,but just came across this nice airplane an would like to scratch build it. Does anyone a wood part list needed? I have ordered the canopy, figured save some time if someone has figured out the wood sizes needed already.

Thanks Mike

[Peter Miller]

Glad to see so many of you chosing Werewolf. It was a really nice model.

There is an article on this forum "Woodn't You Like to Know" which gives a detailed method of working out the wood that you need.

If building from plans this is something that is essential to master,

[Erfolg]

Yep, It is a me two model with me, want one, just have not got around to build one.

I once hoped it was going to be selected for the mass build for Greenacres Fly in. Alas it was not chosen. Then I hoped that the Swap Rat would be chosen, alas again, not to be (another simple build) Again a bit of a looker..

It always reminds me of the Peter Russel 334G and a bit like a Fw 190.

It has to be a very good choice, as all of Peters models fly well.

[Peter Miller]

Ah yes! It is quite possible that Werewolf was influenced by 334G. I did build one of those.I think it was back in the 70s

Edited By Peter Miller on 19/09/2019 10:52:23

[Mark Elen]

Another one on my list to build. I bought the plan and canopy for it a couple of weeks ago. I’m thinking of putting flaps and retracts on it, along with a saito 40.

Cheers

Mark

[kc]

The build article is here on the forum. And there is also the forum article here.

Peters article on estimating balsa is worth reading as i recall but it's "subscriber ony" not for people who buy RCME from WH Smith !

The way i estimate quickly is to get a sheet of 3 inch and a sheet of 4 inch balsa and try them over the plan components. Put the sheet over ,say, the elevator -move a thumb to the tailplane & elevator end then put over the fin, rudder etc and see if it all comes out of one sheet or needs two. Also checking whether 4 inch or 3 inch is needed. Jotting this down and the grade ( eg light for tailplane parts) Then I do the other 1/4 parts - formers etc to see if they would come out off the sheets too.

Same with the fuselage and wings remembering there are 2 fus sides and wing halves, and top and bottom for wing sheeting. Probably another sheet for fus top and bottom which is easy to forget. Then I get a wing rib shape and see how many times it can be fitted on one sheet so by counting the ribs ( both wing halves!) I know the number of sheets needed. Then it's a matter of looking at the other 1/16th parts to see if they come out of the offcuts or need another sheet. Always over estimating and being generous with material needed.

Then I look around the plan for all the wing spars , TE and smallerparts plus hardware like piano wire jotting it all down. The I have a list and need to add a few sheets for mistakes/ under estimate etc especially if paying for postage and don't want to pay for a second batch.

So I do all the 1/4 parts, then the 1/8. 1/16 etc in turn. Maybe the 1/2 parts need a sheet or maybe they can be laminated from the spare 1/4 sheets. Then its a matter of looking around the plan for any odd size balsa or overlooked parts like 1/32 ply doublers etc. and especially for balsa spars etc.

Somewhere a couple of years ago Peter stated a list of balsa that would make almost any of his designs........ having that material always in stock is a good idea.

Edited By kc on 19/09/2019 13:31:29

[Peter Miller]

Posted by Mark Elen on 19/09/2019 11:19:27:

Another one on my list to build. I bought the plan and canopy for it a couple of weeks ago. I’m thinking of putting flaps and retracts on it, along with a saito 40.

Cheers

Mark

That would be nice.

At this rate there willsoon be a complete Staffel

[Peter Miller]

People always want a list of materials.

The trouble for me is that as I build I delve into a fairly large scrap box of offcuts and, to be honest I am so busy building I never note down such things as "F-3 from 4" of 1/8" sheet, F-5 from 5" section of 1/8" sheet, Elevators from scraps of 1/4" sheet" etc.

When I order wood I just look at my balsa stock and say, "well I have four sheets of 1/16" X 4 so add another 4.Three sheet of 3/32" by 4, Oh well, I use a lot of that so add 8 sheets...." and so it goes on.

I like to have enough wood that I can think, "Right I will design that and build it NOW!" LIkewise I have stocks of all the hardware I might need and then some!!

[kc]

A quick estimate would suggest you need -

Balsa by 36 inch

!/16 by 3 qty 4

1/16 by 4 qty 6

3/32 by 4 qty 5

1/8 by 3 qty 2

1/4 by 4 qty2

1/2 by 3 qty 1

quarter sq spars qty 4 rock hard ( personally I would use spruce )

1/4 triangle qty 1

3/16 sq strip qty1

3/8 by 1/8 TE qty 2

3/8 by 3 small piece for cowl 5inches

1/8 Liteply 19 inch by 3 inch

1/32 Birch ply 20 inches by 8 inch

1/8 birch ply 13 inch by 3 inch

1/4 birch ply 16 inches by 1.25inch and 3 inch by 4 inch

Hardwood 3/8 sq for wing servo bearers -16 inches and 1/4 sq for servos 8inches

Hardwood u/c blocks

1/4 dowel

8 SWG piano wire

All that as a minimum but don't blame me if it's wrong!

[kc]

By my calculations that amounts to about 35 pounds worth of balsa and about 10 pounds worth of ply at SLEC prices.

The 1/32 birch ply fuselage doublers are about 6 pounds but probably worth their cost in allowing a crashed model to be repaired in many cases. Compared to -say- an original balsa kit built Wot 4 that didnt have 1/32 doublers ( just minimal ply reinforcement) that usually destroyed it's fuselage in a hefty crash it seems worth the cost!

[Erfolg]

I may be mean, well, lets change that to mean, I would go for 1/16 lite ply if it is much cheaper, I may even go thicker if i am concerned that lite ply is not strong enough. Being indecisive I would probably go for a standard 1/16 ply. If it saves a lot of money.

At the end of the day it is the back end that always ends up heavy in my models. At the front a bit of strength works for me.

I find it near impossible to get an accurate cutting list, even the kits I have built seem to find it an elusive concept, in being absolutely precise. So you need to buy more, some becomes stock.

[Peter Miller]

Never begrudge the extra left overs. See my post above. It is amazing how much of the next model can be cut from the scrap box.

[Mark Elen]

Yes, there is nothing more satisfying than finding ‘enough’ of whatever in the scrap box.

I personally view the work entailed in making up a list of wood for a build, part of the build itself. The time taken reviewing the plan in detail, to work out the list, often highlights the areas that need further thought.

To be honest, it’s probably one of my favourite parts of any build.

Cheers

Mark

[Jeffrey Cottrell 2]

Posted by Peter Miller on 19/09/2019 08:37:22:

Glad to see so many of you chosing Werewolf. It was a really nice model.

There is an article on this forum "Woodn't You Like to Know" which gives a detailed method of working out the wood that you need.

If building from plans this is something that is essential to master,

Hi All

Would love to have a read of this article, if only someone could tell me where to find it.

Thanks

Jeff

[Ken Ball 1]

Search the forum for werewolf and you will find the build . I believe it said 9/4/10

hope this helps

Ken B

[Mark Elen]

Hi Jeff,

If you click on Features>Building Technique you will find it’s the first article. It is Subscriber Only though.

Cheers

Mark

[kc]

The problem with using 1/16 Liteply for a fus doubler could be that it won't bend in at the front. However in this model the doubler is straight up to F1 and actually should stop there as the top view shows it tapered away at the cowl. So Liteply would be fine and stops at F1. ( fuselage side view shows doubler extends to nosering but this seems incorrect/ unnecessary )   But 1/16th Liteply does not seem to be stocked by SLEC or Balsa Cabin so 3/32 /2mm is the thinnest available.  2mm might be hard to bend for other models but would be quite OK for Werewolf as it does not need to bend - could be a little heavier though.  

Edited By kc on 20/09/2019 10:04:00

[Jeffrey Cottrell 2]

Hi Mark, thanks

Pity it's subscriber only, ho hum. Back to plan 'b'.

Jeff

[kc]

It's a bit unfair to those of us who buy RCME at WH Smith etc - maybe David Ashby could change this one item? Because if we don't buy from WH Smith but subscribe then RCME won't get the exposure to newcomers who look in newsagents! Result less subscribers in the long run?

[kc]

Actually the link I gave yesterday does allow access to the original article!

[Peter Miller]

I see that 12" X 24" 2 mm liteply costs a farction under £3. The same size of 1/32" ply cost about twice as much. It willprbably be stronger.

There is a very old saying. "Don't spoil the ship for a haporth of tar!"